That diagram is conceptually correct. I didn’t check the actual shared grounds, but that’s the right idea.
~Paik
Ok, So let me just check that I have this correct as I’m a bit of a noob when it comes to this (My A-level in electronics is long forgotten 
)
For my real arcade pro (Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK) I’d need the 2 chips and 4 * 4.7kOhm resistors. Then for each wire going to the 5 pin connector (excluding Ground) I just run a split off wire via one of the resistors to the 5v pin on the left chip in the diagram?
Those should be the only wires going to the 5v pin too right?
Cheers for any help
Pod
P.s Am I correct to assume that X_UP_1 is the ground bit and X_UP_2 is the other bit on the pad’s pcb? Or has this whole post been jibberish
P.p.s If you were to just connect the stick directly (using just one of the grounds) what would happen? Would multiple directions get registered at once etc?
Yup
The 5v from the Xbox360 pad needs to go to the pull up resistors, and the vcc or power pin of the two chips.
They are the two pads that get connected on the PCB when you press down on the Dpad
No idea, and depends on the PCB.The MadCatz 360 pad TMO showed looks like it could take a sanwa just fine.
What kind of glue, you guys put in there, after the wires are soldered?
I use hot glue…
I’m about to build a stick for 3S on PS2, and MvC2 on DC. Those are the only two games I’ll use it for, and the only two systems I’d use it on. Therefor I don’t need to worry about anything analog.
However, I’d like to avoid building two separate sticks if I can. I was thinking of using a PS1 pad for simplicity’s sake, and then getting a converter to DC.
But I’m gonna be using a p360 stick, which means I’ll need to hook up to some voltage. If I hook it into the voltage on the PS1 pad, then it’d work fine for 3S on the PS2 I’d assume. But when I plug it into a converter and into my DC, would it be able to power the p360?
I may just end up making two joysticks after all. Not every pad’s pcb has a spot to hook a p360 on though does it? What PS1 pads and what DC pads work with p360s?
Looking around I found this last night
http://www.alfredchow.com/street-fighter-joystick/
Might be a slightly easier way of hooking up a p360 as theres less components to buy. Dunno if it’d work for the other types of joysticks like the Sanwa JLF tho. Suppose it depends on exactly what voltage is needed for the relays to trigger.
Toodles, you seem to be the electronics wiz. Would it work for a sanwa JLF with the 4.7kohm resistors? Or would you recommend I stick with your method?
Cheers for any info
Pod
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=133935
If you feel you couldn’t do it with the analog ICs, the relays will work, but I still feel the analog switch ICs are the better option.
Ah cool. I’m perfectly happy to do it the IC way. Just thought it might be easier for others. Now that you’ve pointed out that the IC way is almost certainly better and cheaper its the way I’ll go. Now I just need to order the components and get myself a cheapo pad to gut.
Thanks again for all the info.
Pod
Just a heads-up if anybody is planning on doing the solderless Series A dual shock hack…
Make sure you get a translucent one, because I just bought two Series A pads from the local flea market today.
One is standard grey, says “A” on the back.
One is translucent blue, says “A” on the back.
Got home and opened them up. The translucent one is fine, but the solid grey one looks almost exactly like the Series H guts.
This is no big deal for me cuz I know how to solder. I was just trying to avoid it for the sake of simplicity.
It is a common mistake that the series on the back of the controller dictates what the PCB will look like. Aside from looking through the translucent case or opening up the pad, there is no way to tell.
I have opened all sorts of series and I’ve found solderless hacks within every single series except maybe the M series.
On a side note, if anyone needs PCBs (including verified solderless ones) check my sale thread in the Trading Outlet.
~Paik
So I’m building a new stick and so far I’m having a bit of trouble soldering the wires onto the PSOne PCB. I got the wires soldered to the buttons just fine, but when it came to trying to solder the wires to the PSOne PCB the solder looks like it’ll hold it down, but it just pops right off. I’ve been trying so much now that it looks like the PCB may be damaged cause of how much time I’ve spent on it.
I was using a soldering iron that came with the RadioShack 5 piece starter kit, and I even got a new soldering Iron cause that one was pretty old. But I’m still get the same results and just can’t seem to keep the solder on. I’ve done this before and plenty of time’s, so now I’m wondering if maybe I’m using the wrong solder or something.
Its a cold solder joint; you’re not heating up the copper pad and the wire enough. Have the iron heat them both up good, preferably before applying the solder.
Also, use a small gauge stranded wire; thick and/or solid wire doesn’t bend as easily, which puts a bunch of stress on the solder point.
I usually heat up the traces and put solder on them first, then I tin the wire with solder. while the wire is still warm, I touch it to the soldered trace and it sticks. Sometimes I put glue on top of that so it will stay, but not usually.
Any recommended guage size? I’ve been using 20 guage wire.
I usually use 24 guage stranded for most of my projects
That’s way way way too thick.
I was trying to follow this guide for a madcats dreampad hack: http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz.htm
But my pad’s guts look different than his. I don’t have the convenient holes to stick a wire through. So do I have the soldering points correct (red hot yellow ground)? And how many grounds do I need? I don’t have a continuity tester, but it looks like there is one ground running to everything. If there’s not, it looks like I could run a ground off the start button and off the directional button and that should cover everything. If it really is just one ground though, it wouldn’t hurt to go ahead and solder 2 grounds to it in those places just to be safe, would it?
http://www.auburn.edu/~goldema/pcb2.jpg
And these parts I’ve drawn arrows to really take up a lot of space when trying to squeeze things into a small stick. I don’t suppose I could break any of these things off eh? It looks like all the connections run to that stupid vertical pcb though, as I drew a blue arrow to in the above pic, so I’d guess that I CAN’T break it off. =\
http://www.auburn.edu/~goldema/pcb1.jpg
EDIT: And I’ve been using 22 gauge non-stranded wire in my past projects. 24 gauge stranded would have worked fine for soldering, but i recently did a solderless PS1 dualshock hack, and there’s no way in hell you could push a stranded 24 gauge wire into that little thing. Unless you like melted the strands together or something. shrug
Trying to separate the little board would be very time consuming and very error prone. I’d say forget it.
The triggers can be removed just fine. There is a small potentiometer connected to it and soldered to the board. (just to the right of the B button in the top pic, and same spot on the left side) You must leave that potentiometer connected! If you play with the triggers and look at the pot, you’ll see the pot go one way when sqeezed, and another when released. Mark it with paint or a sharpie when its RELEASED, so when you remove the trigger, you can put the pot in the same spot as when the trigger wasnt pressed. Use some sort of glue to hold it in that place.
The analog stick can’t be removed without a ton of difficulty. Just use a pair of strong wire cutters or the cutting wheel of a dremel to cut down the metal stick so it isn’t in the way.Some glue inside to make sure it never moves from neutral is a good idea too.
If you check with a multimeter, I’ll bet you’ll find that the ground on the start button and the ground for the D-Pad are in fact connected.
One more question. This is a PSX DS1 Series A (but not the solderless kind). Can I cut the wires to the L and R buttons, as well as the wires to the analogs?
Here’s the front. I see little copper circles where I can solder for everything except the ground. Looks like I need to scrape some of the black stuff off and use a ground for the directional pad side and the button side. It doesn’t appear to be a connected ground.
http://www.auburn.edu/~goldema/psxpcb1.jpg
And here’s back:
http://www.auburn.edu/~goldema/psxpcb2.jpg
Looks like I can cut the wires eh?