I know this might sound like a dumb question, but it should be very easy and quick for someone in this thread to answer:
Im wiring up a sanwa stick to a xbox-s controller, i think im sorted on the buttons, but the stick is confusing me, where do i solder the 5 wires to on the xbox-s pad?
I assume theres an earth somewhere and the other 4 wires solder to the pressure points of the d-pad…
Oh and whats all this i hear about adding resistors? is that needed on the xbox-s pad?
you do not need resistors for the controller S pad, trust me ive made 2 sticks already using controller s pads, and all the buttons on the controller are hackable and dont listen to people that tell you that L & R cannot be soldered to.
And back to my story, i gave up and failed soldering on the ps2 dual shock and i freaking rip it and broke it apart to tiny pieces, now i am 3 controllers short:annoy:, damm it i have a box with sanwa stick and sanwa buttons but no ps1 PCB:annoy:
does it already come with everything ready to work, cause last time i checked the universal pcb thread, i got the idea that everything came in tiny pieces and that i had to put it together or solder together:wasted:
i have the cords for ps2 and ps1 controllers that dont work now, so i could use that with the pcb right???
Old SRK stick maker armad1ll0 had a mod for the H-series Dual Shock PS1 pads. I haven’t tried this out yet, and there aren’t any pictures, but I just thought that someone might be able to use this.
Yes, currently its a kit. There’s a bunch of solder points, but they’re all through hole with good side pads; easy stuff, far easier than hacking a pad. But I understand. Keep an eye out; I’ll be looking into getting preassembled boards whenever I run out of stock of the boards I have now. And yes, you can use those PSX cables to make a Playstation UPCB cable.
Ive changed my mind now, im hacking a ps1 pcb to fit my stick and getting a adapter so it fits xbox… it will then work with my ps1 to usb adapter too for mame!
That madcatz dreampad I posted pics of… I finished wiring it into my stick, and oh noez it doesn’t work! It’s unresponsive when I turn my DC on. In fact, it says it’s trying to load from the memory card even though I don’t have one in it.
Only two possible causes I can think of:
When I was soldering, I overheated an area or two and pulled off some of the little copper contacts where the buttons are, but I thought that was alright because I didn’t pull off the entire contact so I was able to re-solder in a slightly different spot.
I globbed on loads of hot glue on the memory card area to hold the pcb in my stick. Could some of the hot glue have got in the memory card reader and be confusing the pcb or something? I thought hot glue was harmless to all these things.
The only other thing I can think of is the fact that I got the controller at a flea market and never tested it before I ripped it apart and put it in my stick. Maybe it never worked to begin with. shrug
Any ways to pinpoint the cause of the problem? I’d like to try and fix it before I buy another pad and solder/wire it all up again.
Hey has anyone hacked the sega saturn style ps2 controllers before http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-m-49-en-70-rbt.html ? I assume it would be like the sf anniversary pads, but thought id ask. I have one for the ps2 and one for the pc/mac. How good are the anniversary pads for stick building? Is there much lag when using converters?
How do I use the QDs? Does anyone have some detailed pics of them connected to the PCB and/or buttons?
That’s probably tard question number 1, but I just don’t wanna fuck up.
Now I see they fit nicely on the bottom of the buttons. So I’ll assume that’s what I’m supposed to do, but does the closed of part of the QD has to be facing the outside, the inside or other?
Also, how far does the wire need to go in the QD/button?
I might try soldering the next time, unless I find this way easy enough.
That’s from armad1llo, isn’t it? It looks like he’s using a 15 strand cable he said he always likes to use. If so (and really, who the hell has 15 different colors of the same wire??) each wire is probably 28 guage.
So I’ve got pretty much everything wired up (the odd d-pad direction hasn’t held and I’ll fix it later) but I’ve hit a snag. When I plug in the 360 pad to my pc I can’t get any thing to light up on the test page.
Then if I touch the analogue stick all 10 buttons light up. I’m guessing I’ve shorted something but I can’t for the life of me see what.
I had assumed that I could wire the buttons both ways (I.e the switches don’t care which side is ground.) Have I made a fatal error? Or have I missed something else entirely?
Of extra note. Using a multimeter I can test the connections going to the buttons on the pcb. One way round I get a residule charge. The other I get about half charge. Pushing down the button either way gives full charge. Except for the X button which always gives a full charge. I’ve concentrated my search for a short there but can’t see anything wrong.
Its troubleshooting, so break it down to into logical pieces and test the pieces individually. When the analog switch thing is powered, there should be infinite resistance between each pair of direction wires. When one of the inputs is connected to ground, the pair of direction wires should have a low resistance between them, like 30 Ohm usually.
When the analog board is NOT powered, there will be low resistance between the two lines of each pair; all directions will seem pressed. It sounds like the analog switch board isn’t always getting powered. Break it into chucks, and test each chuck to see if it works like you expect. Troubleshooting is nothing more than process of elimination.
You’re talking about the D-pad circuit using your IC chip design. I’ve not even started looking at that yet. If I plug the 5v and ground wires (ground to the 2nd pin in the centre of the board and 5v to the last pin if looking from the buttons side (official 360 pad)) into that circuit the whole pad dies (player indicator light goes out). I’m assuming its due to the short on the main board.
So, I’ve not got that connected and all the face buttons are lit. I keep coming back to that X button that shows no resistance between the two terminals despite no visible shorts so end up just looking round the board
If it wasn’t for the fact that theres no other way to get my HARP onto the 360 I’d have given up long ago
Pod
P.s. I really appreciate all your help. I hope I’m not driving you crazy with all my questions
urgh, I’m such a div. I realised on my trip home what I’d done.
See, I wanted to play it safe so I connected up the 360 pad without cutting off the ps2 wires so of course it’ll be shorting because it shares grounds and I’ve not connected up the 360 buttons in a specific order. It also offers a probable explanation why the resistance falls only in one direction since there’ll be bits on the ps2’s pcb that’ll only allow current in one dir.
Urgh, I feel so stupid. Cause now comes the moment of truth. If I cut the wires I pass the point of easy return and suddenly I see more reasons to keep it ps2. Damn these nerves.
Hi i have a DREAMGEAR I.GLOW PS2 controller that I wanted to swap PCB boards with my Street Fighter Anniversary Stick. Are the marked points the correct points to solder the wires to?
