Hey guys, so forgive me if this has been asked before, but has anyone worked with the Xbox360 Afterglow pads yet? I’m about to take a whack at it and I just wanted to see if anyone had any tips before I do something stupid.
No, but please post pics of the board when you open it up. I’ve seen then cheap, I want to know how easy they are to work with.
So can you padhack these? Common ground? Guides anywhere? Searched but maybe I’m using the wrong keywords.
If not, is a fightpad the cheapest 360 pcb?
Yes
Probably not. Most of the rock band/guitar hero stuff I’ve come across isn’t.
I’d be really surprised on that specific one. I did an x-plorer Guitar Hero II pcb a while back. If you’re not looking to dual mod it’s fine, and it gives 8 buttons.
Not the cheapest, but probably the easiest (no analog triggers to worry about, common ground, and nice sized spots to solder to).
Cheapest would probably be the Gamestop pad, which are about 5-10 less than the fight pads.
I need help im using an 09 madcatz controller and the joystick wont work, it wont register and command on the properties on my comp. its not my common ground because my sanwa buttons work fine on the ground but the joystick wont register. I’m using a Sanwa JLF-TP-8T Joystick with a wiring harness and everything is connected through barrier strips. I dont know if its the wiring harness or maybe i need to solder right onto the pcb of the joystick any help would be appreciated.
nvm found out my entire barrier strip was faulty
Ok, so I opened up an Xbox Afterglow controller and took pictures of the front and back. I hope this is helpful. I’m pretty sure it’s common ground, I tested all the inputs with a piece of wire and they all responded with the same ground. I’m not sure what I’ll have to do with the triggers.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e242/svenuser/Stephenspictures001.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e242/svenuser/Stephenspictures002.jpg
Did you remove triggers? Can you snap a pic of what they look like, are they analog or do they just use that spot on the back?
Oh yeah I removed the triggers, I can’t find them but I’m pretty sure they’re analog.
Then you will have to use a multimeter get voltages on them to know whether they will need inverted.
Honestly I only build six button sticks so to me it looks like a decent pad.
How much did it cost when you got it? If it’s cheaper than the regular madcatz it might be worth checking out.
Oh ok cool. I got mine while it was on sale for 20 bucks at best buy, they’re back up to 30 now though 
I’m only using this because I bought one of Art’s full acrylic cases and I thought it would look cool haha.
Just finished installing this into my Hori Namco Stick and it is input-lag-free with multiple pt.'s to solder for the same signal. Not common ground but a great option for advanced pad hackers =]
I don’t follow this thread, so sorry if I’m repeating someone. But the Akihabarashop diagrams of the Madcatz 4716 pad has a mistake that wasted a lot of my time. The ground and signal points on the Start button should be switched. Just giving a heads up.
Is the 4716 still the preferred 360 pad? Can you tell by looking at the box which one you are getting?
the madcatz fightpad is more likely preferred since you dont have to “trigger hack” anything to get it to function correctly (not that you really need that now mod now).
I’m not sure what the Now Mod is. There is a pretty big price difference between those pads right?
depending on where you go they both average around $20 to $30… the Fightpad is pretty mod friendly but price wise they are around the same price…fightpads tend to go a little cheaper at times…4716 is common gamestop stuff.
4716 pads are $5 less used, and $10 less new pretty much everywhere (Gamestop for one).
If fight pads are cheaper where you live, you need to start buying and selling them here.
Is there a PCB map of the SF IV fightpads anywhere?
I know I found these in another thread from another poster. I saved them for personal reference and will rehost them here:
