aaaaHHH sorry for my english my problem is cable red.
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/6672/dsc001502.th.jpg
I have problems with these two wires where soldiers.
aaaaHHH sorry for my english my problem is cable red.
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/6672/dsc001502.th.jpg
I have problems with these two wires where soldiers.
M$ Wireless common ground?
Is there any way to tell if a new M$ wireless pad is common ground before I buy it? I have bought three brand new M$ controllers now to find out that they are not common ground. I need common ground because I want to use a hex invertor with leds. God damn it M$ stop selling your old shitty wireless controllers. So pissed right now cause this controller I just spent 60 on at walmart is not common ground.
Alright, Iâve got a PS1 PCB thatâs not up on slagcoin, but looks alot like the Digital M (only with analog sticks).
Can I assume the grounds/signals are still in the same place? And does this still pretty much apply to this PCB? (I assume the ground to the far right goes to the stick.)
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7613/pcb.th.jpg
Sorry for the crappy image quality.
Also, is there any downside to just leaving the sticks and triggers on other than taking up more space? If I donât have to bother with getting the right resistors Iâd rather just leave them on.
hmm, itâs similar, but itâs not going to be the same.
Youâll have to do a bit of testing to make sure especially with those points on the bottom left and right for the L and R buttons (they could be different than labeled on that diagram).
And nah, donât even remove the sticks, they just take up a little room. Just glue them in place or chop the tops off so they canât move.
Could you explain how Iâd go about testing? First padhack.
Do you have a continuity tester or multimeter?
I have what I believe to be a cheap-o continuity tester. Black and red wire attached to a lightbulb?
yeah that works fine.
For the dpad and four face buttons youâll just want to make sure the contact point youâre soldering isnât grounded, or youâre soldering the wrong side.
Just find a ground point on the pad, put one wire on that and test each button signal to make sure it doesnât light the bulb up.
For the triggers itâs really just trial and error if you find that theyâre not the same as the diagram. But thatâs easy, youâll still be soldering in the same 4 spots, they just might be different buttons that in the diagram.
Also curious how this works. If Iâm only hooking up right bumper and right trigger, do I remove those from the PCB and leave the other side on? Thanks for the help.
Nah, you can just cut the bumpers off. They arenât needed.
quick question, Im hacking a 360 madcatz pad. I had done the bttons and the daisey chain the other day. I finished my pad off today (start select guide) buttons were finished. So I got everything finished, went to plug it in and it does not want to stay on, sometimes the pad will stay on , than it will just cut out. Cant seem to figure this out. I will plug the pad in sometimes it will blink and stay on , than sometimes I will plug it in and the light wll breifly pop up than cut out, I went over all my connections they all seem to be good. When I first tried (when I did the buttons) everything worked fine all the buttons were functioning, so this just happened when I ifnished my soldering today? I thought I would have evrything working no problem seeing how I did the buttons with out no issues.
The only reliable way to tell if itâs a common ground pad or not is to look at the PCB portion that can be seen through the opening in the back of the pad where the battery compartment goes:
Since this area isnât visible when the pad is sealed you should stop buying new ones and try used ones on ebay from sellers that are willing to check which of the above types their pad corresponds to.
One of the copper contact points on my 360 controller came off with my solder job. It was the contact point for the right direction on the dpad, how can I fix this or work around this? I dont know what to search for, I tried, so if the answer is out there point me to it or just tell me please.
okay so im part way through my first padhack for xbox 360 (using a wireless old pcb through lack of being able to get a wired one) and i took off the triggers early on, and have soldered resistors to the both of them.
as far as i can tell the left trigger is fine no probs with that one. the right trigger however (heavy kick button) seems to activate itself when it is disturbed.
if i touch any part of the connection with my finger the right trigger repeatedly activates ( i put it on training with button inputs enabled and the screen v quickly filled up with heavy kick symbols). i tried pushing the wires with a pen and nothing activated, however when its led on my bed and the sheets push against the connection it activates also (???)
i have a couple of pics to show how iv wired it, my soldering is pretty damn terrible atm and i had to use points on opposite sides of the board fro both triggers as i fucked up a couple of the vias and needed to find alternate points.
http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab293/evilweevle/PA122801.jpg?t=1255621195
http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab293/evilweevle/PA122803.jpg?t=1255621253
yes i know theres a lot of solder on there but im pretty damn certain that i didnt hit any other contact points on the board (and i only scraped off the ones i used anyhow)
if anyone can provide any insight as to what might be wrong i would appreciate it a lot! Thanks!
So I just happened to have a Hori EX2 PCB for 360. I plan to make (I hope) an 8 button stick, does anyone know the alternative sodering points by any chance?
HELP!!!
I wired up the dreamcast madcatz controller to my joystick and it was working fine. However, the analog part of the dreamcast controller was preventing my case from closing so I removed the whole thing from the PCB. Now when I plug my stick into the dreamcast, it remains jumping and I donât know why. The actual jump input isnât fucked up or anything, like it didnât bleed over.
Hey guys, im looking for a playstation dual shock pcb diagram for model M. but its not the one that slagcoin shows. I guess it would be considered an early version. It doesnt have the ribbon.
its says MITSUMI on the analog pcb.
not this one
can you take a pic? I may have done that one before
heres acouple of pics i snapped
I already started to do the directions. This is what i think are the signals. If i am right what part am i supposed to scrape on the 4 main action buttons? That part is confusing me. Also, which color wire is usually the 3.3?
thanks in advance lucky
Lol, squarrrrrrrrr!