I successfully padhacked a PS3 Mad Catz Fightpad…
If anyone is interested…
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=210773
In that picture, pin 1 is on the far left, pin 20 on the far right.
Don’t forget the resistors.
And that ‘SW1’ looks a little weird. You should check to see if the case kept it pressed down, in which case you’d want to short it.
Thank you very much Toodles as always youre the man. But the pins are thy counting straight or alternating like in this picture:
Are they like the black numbers or the yellow numbers?
black
hey there I am trying to pad hack a wireless m$ controller I had one a friend game me and it turned out it was not common ground. I went and bought one and it is also not common ground. Is there anyway I can be certain that it is a common ground pcb before i buy it?
I got a problem when I was hooking up my stick the other day. After hooking up all the wires to the buttons only one button works (X). I was padhacking the PS1 late A series following spiffyshoes guide. I read around and it couldn’t find a solution to my prob
Only way to know is by taking off the battery pack, so unless you can do that before you buy it, no.
Common Ground?
non common ground?
Just bought a brand new m$ wireless controller from eb games and it’s the one on the bottom pic from what I can see, am I f_ _ _ ed?
Yeah, it’s the one on the bottom.
You’re not necessarily screwed though, what are you using it for?
Well I wanted to do an led mod on it using a hex inverter so was kinda counting on the common ground. I might try my luck at walmart insted of eb games I am pretty sure my local walmart moves more controllers than eb so I may have a better chance of getting a new on there with common ground.
Hello .Cobra
Maybe can you help me a lot.
I also have exactly your pad (nubytech SF 15th Aniv) but my brother (little bastard) recently unwelding the big cable energy/data of the PCB.
For long time Im a looking for a simple PCB photo to see how is the color positions for the all cable data into the PCB but… all images only show the pad zone or button zone (of course, this is the main part).
I dont now if you already finished your arcade joystick, but can you take a simple photo for the other side of the PCB??? to see the color position in the PCB for all color cables and I can make the welding again?
I hope you can help me. (Or anybody) Thanks a lot.
I have hot glue all over that part of the pcb on my pad so I couldnt take a good pic. But, I could make out what color wire goes to what solder point. On the back of the PCB there are solder points w/ numbers next to them. This is how mine is connected.
yellow-5
orange-4
green-6
blue-7
gray-2
purple-9
black-1
Anyone?
Yeah, some games just don’t let you mix analog and digital directions together.
I did this with a non common ground madcatz microcon as some digital directions stopped working on the PCB (I apparently fried something combining random grounds carelessly). So I had up and down use the analog up/down inputs, while left/right remained digital.
On SF4 everything still worked ok, but on Ikaruga, it didn’t let me move in diagonal, apparently not allowing a digital and an analog direction to be pressed at the same time. It was the same in HD Remix. That forced me to make all directions use the analog inputs. Now it works again.
Allright! I try this and will report any results later
Thanks so much!!!:tup:
Finally finished my ps3 stick with a pad hacked dual shock 3 thanks go out to Gummowned and Toodles for helping me understand how to make this PCB work. O and Toodles, the SW1 when I pressed it, a weird thing happened the controller completely turns off and then turns on again maybe a reset or something.
okay so im just starting my first padhack (xbox 360 wireless pad early version, as it was the only one i could get my hands on)
still very early on but i removed the triggers yesterday. first of all tried using a solder sucker to pull off the solder but didnt have much luck with that as the solder iron i have is a bit large and cumbersome for my liking.
finally managed to get the triggers out though after heating up the solder just enough so i could prise them out the other side by wedging a knife between the plastic of th triggers and the PCB itself.
ive just noticed tho that i think i may have gone overboard as there is no copper on ths solder points anymore and it just seems that its the wood showing through of the PCB
http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab293/evilweevle/PA062796.jpg?t=1255102494
http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab293/evilweevle/PA062798.jpg?t=1255102583
obviously i intended to solder resistors to the points to prevent them always being ‘pressed’ but i wanted to know if its too late for that and i may have fucked it up already by damaging the pcb contacts or anything.
im pretty new at this sorta stuff so any insight would be great thanks
Ok, this is the way I think you need to fix it, but I’m not entirely sure, so hopefully someone else can confirm before you go ahead.
To neutralize the triggers you need to join the middle and bottom hole on each side with a 10k resistor.
So you need to find alternate points for the middle holes and the bottom.
The bottom is a ground on each side, and I’m pretty sure the alternate for each is the point labeled LSC2/DR2/BK2 in this picture:
For the middle points, you’ll need to scrape some of the trace on the other side of the controller.
In the picture below the traces for those points are the two Cyan lines running right next to the middle holes on the triggers:
So you’ll have to expose those traces, and join them with a resistor to the ground I showed above.
I’m thinking this should work, so if someone else could chime in that would be appreciated. I’m curious if I’m right on this one.
well thanks for that my stick and buttons should arrive in a week or so so ill defo have to try it out then, if anybody else has any suggestions any info is good info imo (as long as its not bad info ha ha)
That button is the sync button.