Well, if I’m an amateur pad hacker, can I use super glue to strenghen soldering points? I’m still new to soldering, and the wire I used is kinda short… A tug of the cord or even a violent opening of the sticks lid might ruin the solders, so it’d be nice to be able to glue them… I just don’t have a glue gun.
What types of glue will work? Will some brands mess with the electrical somehow?
Hello guys,
I wanted to try to hack a 09 mad catz wired controller, but i accidentally broke of the LT trigger pot and legs as you can see on the picture!
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/5241/p1013142.th.jpg
Is it possible to use this controller for a 6 button layout, if i dont need the triggers??
Thanks
You should be able to replace that pot with appropriate resistors. I don’t know which resistors are appropriate but I’ll assume it’s effectively two variable resistors with a common leg. Figure out which leg is common and what the inactive resistance is between common and R1 and common and R2 and just wire them in like that.
Hey all, anyone have a diagram of the blue 2009 Gamestop 360 wired pad?
i see
well thanks for the link, yeah i definately wouldnt want to mess with non-common pads since i ve tried my luck with them already on the x360.
oh and i almost bought that logitech precision cause i thought it was common ground but i guess i was wrong, seems i ll go with the cthulu or that sku you linked :china:
Hey guys, I’ve been trying to hack a USB dual shock controller and I’ve run into a problem when it comes to removing the two analog controllers. I’ve read through the part on tutorial on slagcoin about attaching steady resistors except I have no idea how to determine which solder points to join and which ones to attach the resistors to.
I have a multimeter and although I was able to determine where the resistors were on the analog pcb, I have no idea how all of them transfers the signals to the main PCB.
It seems almost as if the labels printed on the back of the analog PCB, ie. the GND for ground VDD for voltage source don’t even match up to the components theyre attached to. I’ve tried tracing the paths of the connections and some of them just seem to stop (or do they join through the mechanisms inside the analog stick themselves)?
I’ve provided some pics and if anyone can tell me where to solder the resistors and joints, it would be extremely appreciated.
http://okujin.com/images/controller1.jpg
http://okujin.com/images/controller2.jpg
Heres my current dilemma, I was using a rockband fender, common ground and all was going smooth until I got to the need to modify the left trigger.
I put the 10k resistor on the black wire, then to the red.
When I tested it on the common ground, it worked on Windows device properties.
Now that I finished wiring all the terminal strips ive noticed its not actually doing the Roundhouse until I release the button.
What am I missing? Is this one of those cases where I need a NPN transistor? If so, whats the exact naming/size or radio shack part #?
It felt so good to not have to solder anything and have ribbon cables all over the place AND a common ground. My first pad was a joytech so I had to solder every button and ground.
Yeah…so, I hacked my 360 common wireless pad last night. Pull the triggers & sticks, wire up the 10K business and solder everything but the d pad.
So I go to do the last 4 solders on the d pad and the heat pulls out one of the points…so I try and use the alternate points but they are tiny as hell and I fucked those up also.
So yeah, my PCB is basically fucked…sucks ass, 95% done and super clean till my d pad fail.
Unless…can I hit it at the chip (blue with black dot)? Anybody ever do that? …its so tiny.
Any d pad soldering ninjas got some advice for a noob?
Should I be using flux to get at that tiny ass d pad spot? My solder has flux core, but lots of folks swear by using flux paste also on the point and the wire before?
:chainsaw:
How badly did you mess up the alt points? I use 30 gauge wire that can fit through those tiny holes. You could solder on to the pins on the chip, but with your luck, I’d highly advise not to as you are most likely going to end up bridging pins together with solder.
You use solid core 30 then? I held the PCB up to the light and could not see through those holes…can you force the wire through if its small enough?
I royally messes up the alt points…at that point I was way too tired and frustrated. I pulled a genius maneuver and tried to drill out the hole to get my wire in there. Bit was a bit too big so yeah…fail.
If the PCB isn’t toasted at this point, I’ll have to try the chip. If I can hit it clean, how can I use my multimeter to verify?
I lightly scraped it and I used my solder iron’s tip to clear the hole. Then kept poking it with the solid core 30 gauge wire.
If the bit was too big, it might of cut through the traces of other buttons or other electronic components. In which case you will have to fix that problem.
If you cleanly solder the wire to the chip, you pretty much can only test it by turning on the controller and seeing if the buttons work. You can check the continuity between that pin and the next alt point, but I don’t know if you have destroyed that or not.
I had read somewhere that the alt holes are sometimes filled in with a conductive materiel which connects a trace on one side of the board to the other side and should therefore not be removed.
Is that not the case with these PCBs?
but another conductive material is replacing it, the wire.
Anyone pad hacked a DS3 without the 20-pin connector?
The process should be the same as a sixaxis, only MUCH MUCH MUCH harder because of the very very fine soldering involved.
Gently put it back together, and make sure the pad works. Then buy a sixaxis pcb from aggrastat in the trading outlet, and a axisdapter from me or shinjn. If you absolutely have to use the DS and are going to go through with it anyways, then make sure to put the two resistors between the proper points, and be careful wiring everything up because it is definitely not a common ground board.
I’d already started soldering to the very small staggered 20 points, but I accidentally lifted one of the traces (point 17, I believe). I haven’t been able to find an alternate point. I’ve got the two 8K 1/4 watt resistors, but I might be out of luck.
I didn’t want to go down this route, but my wireless PS3 stick drops signal every once and a while using a launch SIXAXIS with your ver. AXISDAPTER. The problem is the SIXAXIS itself as it has always had this problem and is well documented. Since my DS3s never drop signals I figured this would be the solution. I do have an early ver. white DS3 (JAP) that I’m pretty sure has a 20-pin…would suck loosing the white shell though.
Anyone else have the SIXAXIS signal drop problem still?
hey, could anyone tell me more about this pad, it’s a wireless ps2 pad i have laying around that has no use. is there any potential with this pcb?
hi res: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=Y0H8CVAJ
i have no experience at all so well if someone could also make a diagram that would be great :lovin:
has anyone figured out a way to tell for sure you’re getting a late version wireless 360 pad? like a specific color, or one of those controllers with special art on them?
Yes, it requires taking off the battery pack and taking a peek at the little bit of pcb that is exposed. If you see any components labeled with a L (should be able to see L2,L6, and L7) then its a early version. If you can see a component labeled D6 and a column of resistors (they are labeled R24,R23,R25, but you can only see it say R25) then its a late version.
Earlier before I thought you could tell quickly by looking at the gray plastic on its bottom. I thought if it was shinny silver then it was early version and if it was dull gray then it was late version. However, after going through 25 controllers, this didn’t turn out true. I must of gotten lucky with the first couple of dull gray controllers. I have yet encountered a late version with a shinny silver bottom though.
Anybody use this stuff?
…seems lots of folks are swearing by it.
Since I killed my first 360 wireless PCB doing the tiny ass D pad areas, hopefully this will help me get at them better.
I’m gonna try and use this stuff on my second attempt tonight.