*The "padhacking" thread*

I’m trying to figure out a weird issue…

with my Matcatz Retro padhack, all is working well except for one little thing…

when I am in x360 messaging, when I go to enter text, I hit A to select, and it starts to bring up the text entry screen, but pauses then goes back to the page before it… I can’t find any other time the A button seems to be freaking out…

i can’t figure out if it’s some other button interfering with the A button at that moment or not, but nothing is causing issues at any other time…:xeye:

I swear this hacked pad has been nothing but trouble… :rofl:

hi guys,

i’ve been trying to hack a ps2 type a controller and wanted to post my progress.

so far i have finished connecting the direction pad.

i’ll include a description and pictures:

ok that’s the circuit board of what me and a friend of mine have found out about the controller:

Spoiler

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/6979/circuitps2typea.png

and the actual board and i’ll name them for you

Spoiler

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4710/img1846b.jpg

starting from the right most pin:
L2
L1
UP
Left
Down
Right
Select
Analog
Start
+3.3V
’Mass’
+3.3V
Square
’X’
Circle
Triangle
R2
R1


Now to what I did.

I connected my 3.3 V to a 7.5k Ohm Resistor, just like how it was in the controller. Then from the 7.5k Ohm resistor I paralleled a cable directly to ‘Ground’. The ground from my directional pads contact is paralleled to my Resistor.


now as far as the analog stick is concerned. you need to ground it. I am not sure if you need the resistors i added, but i am guessing you probably don’t need them.

not sure if you can see it in my picture, but you need to ground all 4 grounds so that the analog stick centers itself, otherwise it will go off to the side or somewhere.


did that make sense at all? xD

So finally when i was about to give up on this mc pad i checked the mini pcb on top and realized that the signal and ground were touching! so the whole time i thought it was my soldering/trace scrapping when in reality it was something really small that i was overlooking.
thanks
edit- Another pain about this stick is that it was already modded with sanwa parts with the original non cg pcb. So when i wired it up i had to solder to the switches, didnt wanna stick for shit. lol

super glue vs hot glue

For the 360 padhacks, has anybody used super glue in place of hot glue for securing the trigger pots in place/neutral position?

How about using super glue on the PCB to add strength to the solder points in place of hot glue?

If possible I don’t want to have to buy a glue gun just for 3 pad hacks. I want to remove the left/right triggers and avoid installing 10K resistors if possible.

…or am I just taking the lazy route? Any pro pad hackers in here using some type of glue instead of 10k resistors?

Pro pad hackers dont use glue.

What about Ben Heckendorn? He is practically the spokes person for hot glue!

quick question…doing a madcatz retro pad,and I have 1/4 watt and 1/2 watt 10k resistors for the triggers…which should I use?

Doesnt matter. The current is so low that either will work fine. the 1/4’s probably are smaller and easier to use, so I’d go with that, but either will work fine.

ubasrawr: cut the picture down to a reasonable size pls.

thanks a bunch toodles,really appreciated :slight_smile:

Has anyone worked with this controller before? Does anyone know if it is common ground or not?

Dunno, but 158.99$ sure looks like a hell of a deal!

edit

…lolz, never mind :sweat:

10K 1/2 is what they have in stock so thats what I’m going to use.

[

](http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=7095578&postcount=3469)

Help please…no clue which resistors to buy here.

10K Ohm 1/2 or 1 watt resistors for the trigger/pots bypass on my 360 wireless pads?

10K 1/2 watt

10K 1 watt

…does it matter?

Thanks

~VA

1/2 watt are more than adequate.

I have a non-common non-CL 360 wired pad on which I’ve messed both Left Direction solder points (on the back and front of the PCB).

So I was wondering if it was possible to use solder points from the theumbstick in order to emulate Left Direction ?

Edit: made some tests and it works :slight_smile:

I just recently got a madcatz retro gamestick and I want to know what I need to get the triggers working.

i read somewhere that it doesn’t require as much effort to hack the triggers on the retro pcb, so I was wondering what I needed.

greetings shoryuken

im new with game pad hacking and would like to know if this ps2 ds2 a-series scph-10010 game pad can be wired with the solderless method

pictures of my pcb and ribbon

http://img198.imageshack.us/i/17561775.jpg/
http://img22.imageshack.us/i/75666532.jpg/
http://img401.imageshack.us/i/56262403.jpg/

i have been looking at slagcoin pcb diagrams

(http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html#PCB_DIAGRAMS)

however i am unable to identify which pcb corresponds with mine

i am thinking its between these 2

i am aware that there are 2 commons on this pcb, i have read that some people have had some success with these when connected properly

any help would be much appreciated

ty1

Toodles, anybody, is there any way around this?

I am padhacking the wireless 360 common ground controller, and EVERYTHING other then the following worked:

RB

D-Pad Left

D-Pad Up

D-Pad Down

The original points for the d-pad burned off, and i tried scraping away at the alternate points, and they would work then next time i wire up the next d-pad direction, it stops working. I cannot get it to fill in with solder no matter what i try. Ive read i can use the analog stick directionals for the up/down/left/right, is that true? If so, anyone have a diagram handy? I do not trust myself to solder to the chip itself, its too small and my soldering iron isnt thin enough. Also, no clue why RB isnt working, i tried swapping the buttons it attachs to and its not the button on the arcade stick for sure.

just a quick question guys

what would be the best compatible PCB for a PC only arcade stick? or should i go with cthulu anyways?

Cthulhu is definitely the easiest. sku.618 at dealextreme is claimed to be easy to work with at the MAME forums and is only $9.19 shipped.

If you don’t want to deal with non-common pads avoid the Logitech Precision and the Tesun 10-button (it’s common everything-but-d-pad).