I can’t thank you guys enough for this info, as I’m gonna start hacking tomorow and wanted to review before I start 
So if I got this right you have to have 1 ground and 1 signal for each button like Thomsons pic, but you also need to have 1 ground and 1 signal connected to each of the joystick microswitches correct??
(In the Early 360 wired of course)
You can also use 2 resistors for any amount of analog stick centering. Run a wire from the middle pin to the middle pin in between the resistors. The technique can be used to neutralize triggers too. There was a post by Toodles on this subject but I can’t be bothered to find it at the moment.
Can someone please help me.
Are you using a jlf? if so, first you should remove the pcb or cut the traces.
if you look at slagcoins diagram you can daisy chain the same colour coded buttons/directions together to their respective common line.
For example, red colour coded “up, do, rb” can be chained to 1 common line, blue coloured circle for the signal which would be daisy chained to the red circle for the common line.
respectively you can follow the colour coding for the rest of the buttons/direction
orange “le, lb”,
light blue “ri, ba”,
green “gu, st”,
brown “x,a”,
pink “y, b”,
grey “rt, lt”
Right thanks, it would be faster that way, anyways its a ls40. Would it be correct to solder at the following points. I’m pretty sure those are the ground connectors
I am not familiar with seimitsu sticks but from the looks of the traces and 5 pin connector it is common ground. IF that is the case then it will not work with the early msxbox360 pad as is.
You will probably have to remove the pcb or cut the traces like how i modded the jlf
To be sure take a multimeter and check or confirm with others who have done the ls hack with msxb360 pad
thanks again for the info, I did all the buttons today, except the triggers, I’m gonna look into changing the Ls-40 with non-common ground
I swear I picked the worse pcb to work with, this is my first time soldering a pcb:razzy:
BTW by “cutting the traces”, you do mean cutting the conductive path in order to make 4 different grounds right, cause I’m sure removing the pcb would be a bad idea since all the leaf switches are perfectly aligned already
Hey guys!
I am trying to find a tut that shows how to install a mic port onto the PCB for the 360. Ive tried searching for it but nada came up. Any suggestions?
thanks in advance
Nice!!!
No, it will make you stronger LOL :bgrin:
"cutting the traces … ": yup. If you need to use it again in a common ground scenario then just daisy chain up the four points again.
You’re almost done !!!
I have a 2009 4716 and the pas for the start button ripped off somehow. What is an alternate solder point?
Madcatz Retro… Solder point for Y seems to be bad (looks a bit fried huh?)… tried using the point on the back… no go… any other place that I could solder to that would function as Y?
Here is the fried point…
Here is the corresponding point on the back of the board…
Soldering to the back didn’t help… am I correct in assuming if you fry the front the back won’t work? Is the front totally gone or can it be cleaned up?
I checked the button to make sure it wasn’t something simple…
If there is another place on this board to solder to, please let me know…
any help appreciated… I’ve gotten sooooo close… :crybaby:
Need Advice
I just bought a new madcatz controller with a 4716-1 ver E board on it and I’m having trouble finding a guide for wiring it up. Would it be the same as older boards? What kind of trigger setup should I use?
Also what type of wire are you guys using? 18-24 awg? Stranded? And finally whats the best solder for small electronics like these?
I know that i’ve asked alot of questions but this thread is so massive that I’m often confused at what the best approach is and there’s so much information that it gets really confusing.
your pad should have the same layout as this one with the horizontal usb points. i use 26 gauge solid. i would go no bigger than 22awg, and it should be stranded.
solid is very stiff and might pull off your contact point if hot glue is not used.
Thanks Soarer5, that board is identical to mine and it will help me out alot. I’ve got 20awg stranded wire which is sorta flexable but I’m still unsure of which solder to use. I’m thinking Lead Free Silver but am open to suggestions. Any preference in trigger hook up for RT and LT?
this thread explains the trigger mod, http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=169203
i don’t quite understand it all, so i chose not to use triggers lol. if you happen to get an older madcatz (2007), it has a very simple trigger mod.
you can use resistors or just modify trigger pots.
thx for the link, I had a 2007 pad but i burned off some of the contacts with my soldering iron. just my luck…
Hacking Hori EX2 360 for Wii
I decided to take my Hori Fighting Stick EX2 apart this weekend and attempt to padhack it to a Wii Classic Controller. I took both controllers to my friend’s house who had some technical knowledge and told him soldering was required. He said ‘no problem!’
The first problem I ran into was the Tri-Screw on the classic controller. After running around to different stores and a look online we realized it’d be days before a place would ship us a tri-screwdriver… so we ripped the classic controller apart. Drilled into one side, and i used pliers to basically rip the whole thing open in the back. This took over an hour and a pain in my hand.
I wanted to at least wire something to see if this could be done correctly, so we tried out ‘up’. After scratching off the current D pad, it revealed the copper, and the solder worked! We then connected it to the hori, splitting the cable (just to see if this was valid), and then I realized I should have gotten some sort of testing application.
Booted up the wii, tried a game, and up was good! I then went online and grabbed the first ‘os x wiimote testing app’ I could find, which was awesome.
Anyway, pretty much 7 hours later of soldering, and we have this mess of a controller which works great!
http://www.robinsontechnical.com/CIMG0014.jpg
So I have read pages 1 -40 something but didnt find the answer I wanted. I wanted to know if there was a way to hack a ps2 dual shock H series? Is it still not practical? It has been asked a lot I know, but I figured there has been a lot going on since page 40 something.
I know I could get one of those cthulu(sp) boards but I have ps2 controllers just sitting around here.
???
I have a USB converter. I am trying to check to see if a PS one controller would give me access to the shoulder buttons in the PS3 game Zen Pinball. A PS2 dualshock with converter does not work in either mode. My Streetfighter anniversary stick with conveter works for a wide array of games but in that one the buttons do not work when the table starts. No need hacking PS1 controller if I can not get that to work. I added pinball flippers and a plunger X button. Want to get those working.
PS1 controller plus USB converter plus Zen Pinball=?
Thanks for the help.