Ok I’ve got a question, I want to make a Happ stick which uses a p360 work with a wireless Logitech PCB.
I was thinking of using this to provide the +5 volts to the p360.
I could easy take out the current battery leads and solder the red / black leads off this into the PCB, theoretically getting 5V to the p360.
The question is, will this increased voltage through the entire circuit destroy the PCB over time? If any electronics wiz knows or has ideas about placing resistors, I would much appreciate it. (If that’s necessary)
If I’m not giving enough info I can take pictures of the PCB this weekend, maybe some one will be able to identify a +5v line. Thanks in advance for any help, I’m looking forward to getting the wireless / 5v mystery solved once and for all and posting my results here.
I’ve been trying to hack a Playstation pad – I’ve broken three already! Two original PS1s (different revisions) and a no name PSX pad. I always end up ripping the contact points off the traces. On the last one I tried very hard to be careful, but even a very slight amount of pressure messed it up. Could it be because I’m using too hot an iron? I’m using a 40 watt Weller. I’m not a soldering master, but this isn’t the first project I’ve soldered on.
Drilling through the PCB and securing wires with hot glue sound like good ideas, so I might try those next.
Anybody got some closeups of their soldering joints on a DS1? I’d like to see how a proper joint on a copper contact should look. I’ve been testing on old controllers and I feel satisfied, but I need some sort of comparison. Also I’m having a hard time keeping my solder on the tip so I can heat the contact to apply solder, is this a normal problem or should I invest in a new tip? I’m using the Radio Shack Soldering Iron ($7.99) on 22 gauge wire. Oh that reminds me…on the square, X, Triangle, etc where the jagged contacts are, the guage I’m using is a bit too big I think, is it safe to strip away about half of the strands and it be able to still conduct properly? Sorry reminded myself of another question. Do I need to make sure that the solder is on the copper ONLY and not touching the trim of the board at all? A couple of joints I did seemed like it might just barely touching the trim, but it’s hard to tell. Thanks, and sorry for all the newb questions.
SundaysButt>> try it I donno. If you eff it up then I guess it was too hot, lol
Kabal>> I think the gauge level does refer to the wire diameter. I am not exactly sure, but I use 30 gauge which is VERY thing (it’s the type of wire modders use to put chips into consoles I think). I believe a lower gauge level means thicker wire.
again I’m not sure since I dont really study and understand these things, but since my friend is a modder I picked up all my soldering habits from him
Yes, the bigger the gauge, the smaller the wire.
Most people will be using 22-26 range for sticks. Many people use stranded instead of solid, too, just to help keep breakage to a minimum.
I’m putting together a stick for xbox360 and cant figure out what to do with the headset jack. I figured the easiest way would be to get an 2.5mm female to 2.5mm male extender and have one end hanging out of the box, but I can’t find any on ebay, or at fry’s & radio shack… It seems like they don’t exist!
I’ll have to remember the tip about stranded wire for padhacking: damn sensible, but I’ve always found it a pain to solder stranded wire to a surface. It tends to shear off over time for some reason, though I guess the internals won’t be under any tension on my stick.
Hot glue! Get a glue gun and after you’ve tested that the connection works glue it up. It strengthens the join and I find it covers for my crappy soldering…
Did anyone testing 2 PCBs (360 and psx) ever see If they were wired together If they would work?
If not, How would I wire this? I have a MAS that has a combo PSX/Saturn PCB. Its a common ground and it is all soldered, no disconnects. Could I just add a 360 PCB using disconnects to the same buttons?
Well, you could, but you’d have to modify the 360 pad to use a common ground. Check a few pages back for a post by me on how to do it. ]
Then you have to make sure that both pads are powered, no matter which on is plugged in. Then it’d be a really good idea to put in a switch so that both pads are powered from only one cable at a time, and the switch says which cable provides power. This would prevent everything from going tits up if you accidentally plugged everything in at once.
There are tons of posts in this thread, and threads all over Tech Talk dealing with multiple PCB’s.
I picked up one of those Mad Katz PS2 controllers with a NBA team on it today for the purpose of hacking (10 bucks, yay!). Opening it up i can see pretty clearly the common ground for the buttons and the d-pad (well, I havn’t traced the link between the two, but pretty easy to see if they are connectred). The thing is, with these controllers the Start, Select, and Mode/Analog buttons are removed from the front face (wouldn’t want to obscure that NBA logo!) and placed on the top and bottom. On the inside there are buttons soldered/glued directly to the PCB. Can I take a soldering iron to these and safely get them off or is there more to it?
I know I really should post pics, but at this late hour all I have access to is my camera phone and it’s quality isn’t, I don’t think, good enough. I’ll try to dig out my digicam tomorrow and get some pictures.
Also, can you use the shoulder buttons of a PS2 pad for hacking? If so I can ignore start, select, and mode and just use those. 8 buttons would be enough for what I want.
Also2, can anyone point me to a template that would work for both NeoGeo and Capcom? I’ve seen arcade sticks with setups that would work (two rows of 4 with two buttons above them, or just two rows of 4) but all the templates I’ve seen have been for Capcom setups. This being my first stick I’d kind of like a template to work from.
Sorry, thought of one more thing: are PS2 controllers automatically in Analog mode? If so I’d need to set up some way to trip the analog button when I hooked it up to my computer. Is there any way to set it so it starts out in Dpad mode?
need some diagnostic help from some of you experts:
i hacked a mad catz DC pad and the thing works brilliant for most games. however on some games (SFA3) it will not recognize the “C” button at all. it is very weird b/c on other games, it appears to register just fine.
is this a software glitch or a case of increased sensitivity? maybe a shoddy gnd, etc. if it matters, i don’t have any resistors etc built into the hack & i use a single ground wire.
