ok, let me clarify, the points that are soldered for the controls and buttons are still good, it’s the 7 points that connect the pcb to the cable that plugs into the playstation.
it’s just that the colored wires that come from the playstation cable tore out of the soldering points attached to the pcband all that was left was the copper wires.
i’ve already removed the old solder and have put in some new stronger wire and new solder, i just don’t remember how the colored wires were setup up, i know that #1 is Ground (as i’ve outlined in the picture) because he had all the common grounds connected running from that point. i don’t remember what the other 6 points were, i know that most new playstation controllers have 9 wire and some have 8, but mine only has these 7. so i have not found a diagram of which point goes to what pin on the male end of the playstation controller. i don’t have a multi-meter but if they are not too expensive i can get one, my wife has me on a budget with my hobbies and games. any help is appreciated.
Get the latest drivers and indeed a box pops up. It’s how I know mine works, although I have a 360 too. 
i finished soldering a non common 360 pcb. i am now in the game controller properties in windows to test the buttons. everything seems to be working correctly… except 2 things.
the right trigger button comes up under the z axis and the guide button does not come up at all.
can someone tell me what numbers they should pop up as in windows? if you dont know how to test them, plug your controller in a usb port, go to “run” in the start menu and type joy.cpl.
try using the xbcd drivers, if not check the connections
anyone know if 30ga wire is too thin/small to use for pad hacking? reason i ask is because i had a friend of mine solder wire to my hrap 3 pcb so i could use the home button. he used 30ga because he said the contact points on the pcb were tiny. the home button activates only when its used to turn the pcb on, but when i hold it down to bring up the menu, it doesnt work at all. should i have him use a larger gauge, or do we have the wrong soldering points?
Sounds like incorrect soldering. You shouldn’t have any issues using 30AWG wire except you’d need to double it up so its thick enough to be crimped into quick disconnects (assuming your using them).
are these two both Common Ground controllers, or just the one on the right?
I started soldering wires onto my ps1 dual shock H pad. I’m having problems with sticking the wires on the contact surfaces of the “square” and “circle” buttons.
I’m using 22 AWG solid wires, but I think its too thick to fit snug on these surfaces.
Would you recommend 24 AWG?
My contact surfaces are almost burned off, my first time soldering. If the contact surfaces are FUBAR, is it possible to solder on the traces instead?
Thanks in advance.
got a better screwdriver and started taking apart a mad katz arcade (Not the sf one) stick for use in my happ stick. and i still ended up with one stripped screw. I have an idea ut I’m wondering if it would be safe.
I don’t have a drill, literally at all, so a screw extractor is out of my reach. What I was thinking of doing is holding the thing upside down and mekting the plastuc around the recessed point of the screw holes off with my soldering iron. Ihe pcb looks at this point to be fae enough away from the plastic that this may work, but this controller is now super rare, and I want to play with my better buttons again.
rut row
ok guys so I’m soldering my first pad and I have a screw up that im afraid is prolly gonna mean i have to start over. I ripped two outta the 3 pads off the left trigger during deconstruction apparently. Every other button is soldered up perfectly and tested. I’m no newbie to soldering but I have NO idea how to solder to a trace or how to properly expose it.
can someone give me some help? sorry for the iphone pic, my GF is bringing back my digi soon:pray:
Quick question guys,
I have a xbox 360 wired late version pad and want to hook it up to my cthulhu. I know that all the buttons and dpad signals share a common line and the lt/rt have a different ground.
My question is : Can I just connect the buttons/dpad/lt/rt to the cthulhu and for the GND just use the common line or do I have to bypass the cthulhu for the lt/rt?
Thanks in advance for the help guys.
Unfortunately, you have it in reverse. The RT and LT are connected to ground and can be attached directly to the cthulhu. The rest have to be converted to common ground first before you can attach to the cthulhu.
You are going to have to follow bencao74’s thread on the subject here.
If you follow his thread to his blog he has something in the works to sell a complete kit for converting that pad to complete common ground.
I just completed my official ms xb360 to CG mod using his tutorial; here.
Here is some pix of the harness and it attached to the cthulhu.
Are you sure you don’t have it reversed gns? Aren’t late versions CG?
I think what your after is the VIA solder points not the trace lines. Read RDC’s VIA guide. Although hes talks about repairing a trace using a VIA it should explain what you need to do for your purposes.
If you did mean trace line then read RDC’s trace repair guide. He’s talking about repairing a broken traces again but he does explain how to expose it and solder to it.
Goodluck.
Hey chaotic, according to RDC they are common line and not ground; hence he calls them CL version aka slagcoin’s “late version”. Here are his posts on the subject in this srk thread.
post 2, are his alternate solder point mapping "TP4 - Common Line for Buttons"
post 5, he includes a picture of his tp mapping "COM - Common Line for the Buttons"
post 14, where he discusses the incorrect use of the word “ground”
Here is RDC post on wiredCL. Its the late wireless that are CG
Monk, the links were incredibly helpful but RDC says if you have a lifted pad just ask and I can explain how to fix that…but I can’t find that post. That would seem to be the most relevant to my problem but I’m going to give this a try.
Thanks,
Wow! I didnt know that. Thanks for the info :tup:
I need to find that too cos I lifted the LED pads while trying to wire the lights 
Not a problem chaotic.
Share when you find that … of course, I too have a couple of “dead” pads with the same issue when I started out hacking … actually, who am I kidding: I still make mistakes like that :lol:
Thanks gns! I wish there was an easier and cheaper way to setup this dual mod. If I have only known that it was going to be so much work I would have searched harder for those madcatz controllers.
Welcome vermitsu, I really can’t believe it myself that we are talking about madcatz stuff like it was gold (4716, se, te … etc) especially in Canada where there is nothing :lol:
Good luck with your mod.
Hi guys. It’s my first time ever hacking a pcb and I’m using a PS1 pcb, I’m up to soldering the ground of the jlf harness but the shoulder pcbs are already soldered to the spot so what do i do? Do I take off the shoulder button pcbs?