I’ve got two quick vague questions.
On the Xbox 360 Wired (Late) pad (according to slagcoin) does ANY ground act as a common ground?
Second, does anyone have any knowledge of dual PCBing a mayflash PCB and a late Xbox 360 wired controller?
Having a stick that would work on PS1/PS2/PS3/Xbox 360 and PC will be perfect.
Thanks.
Why would you use a battery? The pic looks like it will work fine to me.
@Glennicio, @Kyle: Thanks a lot for your quick answers 
I scratched off the surface at the UP ground and it seems to working with all buttons, so there appears to be only one ground.
PCB: Joytech Neo SE 4716 Rev B
Did either you or vic18t get this pad to work and/or correctly pointed out common ground points (if any) ?
Hi guys, first post. I just want to start by saying thanks to this knowledgeable community. I’ve learned a lot already in the short time I’ve spent digging through the Tech Talk forum.
I’m looking to get hold of a 360 common ground PCB and might be able to get hold of a Joytech Neo SE today. Just a quick question, apologies if this has come up, I tried to search to no avail.
Is there anyway to guarentee common ground without opening the controller? Is a specifinc M/N definitely CG?
I’m looking at an ebay auction and it’s supposedly M/N JS110M and N14500.
I’ve tried hours of trial and error and I think it’s best that I just ask. I have a mad catz 2007 (late) pad wired up for a dual pcb mod. I want to use both triggers so I have each set up with resistors. When I connect the left trigger to a ground, it works fine, but NONE of the other buttons work. I tried swapping resistor directions and I’ve set it up with and without diodes. I have read pretty much every post in the dual-mod thread and the trigger hack thread. Unfortunately this is my first pad hack so it’s pretty confusing for me to figure this out. I would really appreciate any kind of answer at this point since I really can’t go any further in this situation. Thanks!
Where do you have the ground going to? The triggers should have their own ground that’s just for them and nothing else (i.e. not the common ground used for the other buttons).
Well I have the common ground on the 360 pad connected to the buttons on my stick as well as the common ground on the playstation pad. Each trigger has a resistor soldered between the wiper and the ground, just like in this image:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6366/1000207tg7.jpg
This isn’t my picture, but it’s the same thing that I did. I have actually removed the diodes as even the one working button doesn’t work with it on.
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Are you wiring this up to a PS pad for dual modding? From what I recall the last person who tried this also couldn’t get the triggers working. They worked fine when he disconnected it from the PS pad.
That’s exactly what I wanted it for… the Final Burn menus on a modded Xbox. I keep a second controller handy now just for that. My analog light is always on by default. Is there something more to that?
I’m not sure if this was addressed to me, but right now ONE of my triggers actually is working and nothing else on the 360 pad is. I did try disconnecting the PS pad but it performs exactly the same. I read that when dual modding, diodes fix the problem (for the 2007 pad) but this hasn’t worked for me yet.
Ah, just wasn’t sure if the LED’s will shine bright enough off 3.3v? Anyways I’m finishing my box up today so I’ll give it a shot sometime over the next week.
Those are the older ones, which aren’t common ground. You’re looking for M/N: 4716, which is the newer common ground ones. All of the ones at various Walmarts that I’ve seen have been the 4716, if you want to just check local you should be able to see it through the side/back of the packaging.
Those are both Matrix controllers… 
You can test if a controller is common ground by setting your multimeter to check for continuity, putting one lead of your multimeter on one of the two points for any button, let’s say Up, and then check the other lead against every other point on all of the other buttons. If you end up with nothing with continuity, then put your first lead on the other point of the Up button, and test the other lead against all of the other buttons points again. A common ground will have one of the two points of every button and direction reading 0 resistance, and those points are the grounds, the other points are the signals. A matrix controller will have only a few buttons, usually 2-3, that share a ground.
Hey guys, I’m having a hard time getting the correct instructions for my situation (multiple methods for multiple pcb versions so not sure which applies to me).
I have a wireless CG pcb and wanted to wire up LT/RT. Do I need the 10kohm resistor for each button method?
Also, no one seems to mention what watt (1/2w, 1/4e, etc.) the resistors should be, I assume this is cos it doesnt matter?
Thanks in advance.
I’m going to assume you mean a 360 wireless CG… With those, you need to desolder the pots for the triggers, and use a single 10k ohm resistor between the high and wiper points for each trigger. It doesn’t matter what watt resistors you use, just use whatever is small and cheap. You don’t need the two resistors and a transistor per trigger setup that some of the Madcatz controllers do.
Clear and precise. Thank you bakageta (sorry, I did mean 360)
You have to understand that the resistors are LIMITING the current that goes through your LEDs so they don’t get fried, so 3.3v is definitely enough.
Would the controller batteries run out of juice a lot faster?
I was thinking of putting in 2 or 4 5mm ultrabrights (~2.2v, 20mA) but was worried about having to recharge twice as often.
If I was to connect the LEDs to the power source on the pcb (the one that says 3.3v in the diagram) would the lights only come on when the controller is on? Is it possible to create the same effect but have the LEDs use an alternate power source?
What controller batteries? He’s talking about a PSX pad.
Yeah.
Yeah, with a battery. But you would need to have a switch to turn your LEDs on because they’d be independent of your pad if they aren’t connected to the PCB. Some people power their Happ optical sticks with batteries.
My mistake…let me rephrase my questions.
If I was to install LEDs on a wireless 360 PCB and have them use the same power source would the controller batteries run out of juice a lot faster?
I was thinking of putting in 2 or 4 5mm ultrabrights (~2.2v, 20mA) but was worried about having to recharge twice as often.
If I was to connect the LEDs to the power source on the wireless pcb (the one that says 3.3v in the diagram) would the lights only come on when the controller is on?
Is it possible to create the same effect (ie. make them turn on when the controller is turned on) but have the LEDs use an alternate power source?
Thank you