The triggers need to have two resistors and a transistor each, just like the newer madcatz, as it’s just a rebranded madcatz controller. I don’t have a diagram handy, but grab a multimeter, you can find which are ground points and which are signal points just by checking if the point has continuity to a point on any other button. If the point shares continuity with one of the points on all of the other buttons, those are all the ground, you can use any of them. If it doesn’t, that’s the signal point for that button.
Has anyone tried to padhack the Scene It controllers? They are pretty cheap but I don’t if there’s a directional pad or right and left buttons on it.
http://www.lazygamer.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/scene-it-big-button-pad-2.jpg
Can someone please tell me which one of these madcatz controller have common ground?
A joytech is what I had to do. I didnt opt to do the triggers yet but I already bought some 1k resistors. Where can I read about needing a transistor?
I am taking my first ever wack at soldering and playing with any type controller modding and I wanted to get an opinion on this diagram.
I haven’t gotten together any supplies but I expect that I will be using the late version of the 360 wired controller (but i want to get the cheapest controller possible).
I am assuming this is WRONG. DO NO USE IT AS A REFERENCE FELLOW NOOBIES!
Questions:
- if purple is ground does that mean i can solder to any ONE of those points and use that as a common ground
- what does the 5V mean? Is that trying to say that it is the ideal point to solder the common ground?
- What are the RC and LC labels for?
- How the hell will these things connect to the stick? Are there ports for quick disconnects on the stick (Sanwa)? (this could be answered after i buy the parts i guess)
Larger image:
- yes, as long as the board is common ground. but that diagram has things labeled as both common and as ground which is confusing to me.
- no, 5v is the red line from the usb coming in that powers the board.
- right click, left click those are the analog stick buttons that you feel click when you push them down.
- yes you can use quick disconnects at the ends of your wire to connect them to the buttons. The stick might use quick disconnects or it might have a wiring harness depending on which stick you get. Wires on the board end are attached by soldering.
I am with you on that one, I am not to sure what those components labeled common mean and that is my biggest question.
Thanks for the help. Knowing that the 5V is for the USB will help me out when I want to remove the regular USB cord and put a longer one in.
Can anyone confirm this? =(
they exist for the late model ms wireless pad as well there was a picture of the matrix posted somewhere in this thread I think. They’re little tiny holes you need to open up with a pin or something and solder the wire into the hole.
*edit: found the links to the pictures
I just got a MadCatz Dreamcast controller in the mail, and I’m ready to hack it for a project box. How would I go about removing the trigger and analog stick pots?
What if I leave the POTS on the board and hot glue them in the open position. Couldn’t I then just solder the pushbutton to the corresponding posts on the opposite side of the board from the POTS, without having to use the resistor/transistor solution?
i have the same question. if the triggers are left on the board then they’re always set to neutral right? would just soldering a wire to the signal line work?
same as above worded differently.
I’ve got the directions, 6 digital buttons, and ground wired up on the Mad Catz Dreamcast pad but I’m having a problem. When I get to a menu (either the Dreamcast home menu or a game menu) none of the buttons or directions work (except down). If I unplug and replug the controller everything works fine afterwards. What could the problem be?
Anyone have the diagram for the early version wired xbox 360 pcb? I need the one that shows the points on the back of the board because one point on my d pad on the front is messed up and has nothing to solder to, i see on slagcoins site it only shows the back points for the late version not early
is this the common one?
proper grounds
is this grounding diagram correct?
i am making a dual mod (360 / ps3) i need assistance on how to properly ground the - joystick, cthulhu, 360 pcb, and buttons…
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2055/propergrounding1.jpg
i haven’t started yet… i’m awaiting the green light for someone who can confirm this.
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if the above diagram is incorrect… HEREis a blank, and you can map out the proper way.
So i got my Jotech Neo SE and it is one of the older non common ground pads, but has much easier solder points than the early M$ non common gound pads.
I am wondering if I can still hack the triggers?
Also how does a JLW compare to a JLF? I will have to get one as I don’t want to cut the traces on the JLF so I will just keep that for another project.
hey, started soldering a MS common ground wired pad (apparently) but I need a bit of help… i put this on my worklog but here seems a better place really.
this is what my pcb looks like at the moment
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Chris_Andon/PCB1.jpg
I started of working from the back but this things so delicate, i managed to pull of a few of the copper pads working from there. hopefully its no problem just doing the front instead… so i did that. worked out fine, except for the RIGHT D-PAD which fucked up on BOTH sides… i dunno what to do now, i know i should follow the trace and scratch off a bit more but i dunno where the trace leads on this one… any help would be nice. cheers
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Chris_Andon/PCB2.jpg
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All i really need is some sort of direction to where the trace is from this photo, if anyone has any experience with this controller (xb360 late wired). thanks for the help!**
Ok…here’s what I’ve got:
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu244/Gizzmo0815/JoytechNeoSE4716VerB.jpg?t=1239828745
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With my cheap-ass analog multimeter set on 1K Ohms (resistance test) if I put the positive lead on any one of the red pads and the negative on any other red pad I get 0 Ohms resistance, I’m assuming that means this is a common ground controller. Please please correct me if I’m wrong on that, I’m new to this.
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If I put the positive lead on any red pad and the negative on any blue pad I get 5 Ohms, I’m assuming that means the blue pads are the signal pads. Again, please correct me if I’m wrong.
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If I put the positive on any red pad and put the negative on the middle post (marked in yellow) for either of the trigger POTS I get a reading of approximately .5 Ohms, and on the bottom post on the triggers (marked in orange) I get approximately 1.5 Ohms. Can I safely say that the yellow post is the “Low” and the Orange is the “High”? And if I leave the POTS on the board glued into the same position they would be in with the trigger UN-pressed and then hooked up the button to the orange post (High?) would that effectively make my pushbutton act as a digital button in place of the triggers?
I tried searching but couldn’t find this controller listed anywhere on SRK. Has anyone cracked open one of these?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100633910&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=100633910&cm_mmc=shopping--google--D27X-_-100633910
Also, the description for these varies on different sites. I can’t tell for sure if it is xbox360 compatible?