My intention is to make the button layout of the Sf4 FightPad more natural because not all games let you change the controls. Specifically I want the top-right shoulder button to be Right Trigger, not Left Trigger. This would make the pad much better for Castle Crashers and Bomberman Live.
My multimeter’s battery just died and I haven’t been able to replace it yet. However the way the PCB is set up is not exactly standard - both lines coming from a button lead to a single via, which I haven’t seen before. If someone who knows a little more about electronics than me could check the PCB out I would really appreciate it.
What’s an easy way to test the back button on 360? I’m trying to make sure a project box with Guide and Back buttons will work before I move on. Is there an easy-to-get-to spot on the Dashboard where the Back button has a function?
D’oh! My Back button wasn’t working, but I didn’t know it was supposed to close the Guide window anyway. Made sure no stray solder was between the traces, and we’re good!
And I don’t think Guide or Back show up as buttons in Windows Game Controllers, do they? Mine still don’t, but they work fine on the Xbox.
is it easy to hook up a Seimitsu LS-56 to a non-common ground xbox pcb? would it be the same process on the JLF cutting out traces or changing to microswitches?
just finished my first padhack, its only my second soldering project it was mostly pretty easy but man, i need three hands to do this. thanks for all the info guys. the joints all came out pretty strong except the O button, i think i didnt scrape enough.
Has anyone tried to hack the ps3 controller sold by gamestop: LINK HERE? If so, can someone provide diagram? This isn’t the crappy madcatz one that Slagcoin said to avoid, it’s actually made by gamestop.
I posted this in newbie thread before I rediscovered this thread.
I just hacked a non-common ground xbox 360 pcb for a new stick. The buttons work fine, but I’m having problems with the directionals and I don’t understand why.
In actual playing it feels ok except it sometimes puts in double inputs for directions, its inconsistent, but sometimes a dash will show up as (input display) 3 ->'s or a qcf will show up as 23636, and this can make things go awry when I’m trying to block quickly or get extra directions making me do moves I do not want. Also, in the menu’s the right direction doesn’t respond most of the time, unless I hold it down, then after a second or so it starts going, but in match play its just fine.
Any ideas? This is over my head.
if i didn’t want to solder resistors for the Triggers - could i just set them to neutral and use the signal lines? like move the pot so it’s neutral and a nice little drop of hot glue to keep it from moving around?
That’s just the backside of the Madcatz pad I used. I mostly snapped the photo for reference before I started doing anything in case I did something wreckless and messed up somehow. I also wanted a pic to ensure I had a reference that showed the original USB contact connections in case I decide to at some point replace with a longer cable, or make a dual pcb stick that would require some messing with the usb connections.
Is there something in particular about it that caught your eye?
Ha, yeah I’m not saying my way is the end all be all way by any means. There is mroe than one way to skin a cat… Just thought I’d throw it out there in case people were having trouble and might want another way to go about it.
Yeah I noticed that too after reviewing these pics, but I figured it wasn’t too big a deal for this application. I used a wire stripper I got from Radio Shack, and I believe the min guage hole was .22, which is the wire guage I got… Admittedly, I wasn’t exactly the most meticulous with this part. Also, notice the bottle of bourbon on the table in the pics :bottle: Probably didn’t help as far as that goes…
The problem I seem to having is by testing the buttons with a multimeter, the start, select, and mode buttons seem to have a separate trace from the other buttons, seeing that the multimeter doesn’t beep when connecting the ground of the start/select/mode buttons to the others. Could it be that this pad isn’t common ground? I hope it’s some other reason that I may be overlooking, as I was planning to use this pad to soldier my wires on to. Thanks!
I apologize if this is answered somewhere else in the thread but 119 pages? Jeebus…
Quick question: I have the 4716 Mad Catz as per this diagram from Slagcoin -
It looks as though there’s multiple grounds, but I know this is a common ground controller. Do you just pick one of those contacts to use as ground from the diagram? Or do you have to daisy chain those 3?
