my problem is the left d-pad direction
try to connecting the cable of ground to the point marked like DL1 in this image and the control does not work
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/SFAC%20Mod/44.jpg
connect 1 wire to DL1 here
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/discipline/44.jpg
connect the other to DL2 here
My first pad hack, and my very first time soldering 
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8548/p1000746z.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/2407/p1000748w.jpg
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/781/p1000776.jpg
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/3699/p1000791wai.jpg
Tested it by plugging it into the 360, going into training mode with input data on then using male to male phono cables and touching the screws to all the terminal blocks.
Electrical tape is used instead of hot glue to isolate the whole board and if anything goes wrong I can correct it easier.
Headset port, A, B, X, Y, LT, RT, LB, RB, Start, Guide and Select all working, buttons have one common ground, dpad has another for easy hookup to a JLF. It isnāt pretty but it all works so Iām dead chuffed.
im surprised some of these pad hacks actually work
did you know they make jumpers for those barrier strips?
I think you went alil overboard with the electrical tape too.
I didnāt know they made jumpers, but it works the way I did it.
Yeah I did go overboard but like I said I didnāt use glue as I wasnāt sure it would hold up, and small amount of tape donāt hold down the wires well.
Itās my first time doing anything electrical, so hush Negative Nelly
haha nah jus tryin to help 
jus a few tips though
youre using way too much solder and the exposed wire doesnt need to be that long.
your solder joints look cold and are at risk of breaking off. Hot glue should only be used as added protection. The solder should be strong enough to hold up on its own.
and radioshack should sell those jumpers. theyre cheap and make things look alil cleanerā¦ they also make life alil easier
My first soldering job, and Iām trying to padhack a MadCatz wired 360 pad. I got overzealous and tried to take off the triggers, and I think I screwed this one up bad:
http://houseoftheed.com/images/360Pad.jpg
Anything I can do to salvage this? Or do I need to hunt down a new controller?
Iām having trouble finding quick-disconnects here in sweden, is it possible to just electrical tape the wires to the buttons microswitches?
Also my A Signal and Home signal is not working with the common line above the A button (red ring above A in the picture) http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram1.jpg. Do they use another common line? The one right next to the āBack signalā maybe?
i had that problem here in germany too. all electronic stores didnt carry those, but i found them in āhome improvement storesā/do it yourself stores (no idea how to call those stores correctly 
)
Domz, thanks but no work 
Thanks, I appreciate the input 
You can clearly tell I started on the dpad, moved onto the face buttons then did the shoulder buttons and guide/start/back last
All of the joints are shiny, so I assume theyāre not cold soldered? They also hold firm when gently pulling on the cable. I trimmed the excess off the wires before taping it up but I agree, there is too much exposed wire really.
Try searching for āFlatstiftshylsaā.
Awesome thanks man 
But my PCB is still acting strange :S Cant seem to get the A and home signal to work :S
Joytech 360 PCB
So my buddy has a PS MAS stick and wants to try to convert it for use with a 360. He got a Joytech 360 wired controller and we popped it open last night. I think we have the connections figured out, but I am a little worried about the triggers. I read on slagcoin something about the potential for the analog sticks and triggers to react as though they are constantly pushed in.
My question is this: there were two little box-like servo-looking things soldered onto the board that rotate with the triggers. We took those off. Is that going to cause a problem?
Pictures here
hmmā¦ im at a loss, sry
maybe your pcb is shot 
The solder points for the dpad left are especially tricky because youre soldering to the leg of that component. If you held the soldering iron there too long you might have damaged it.
jus a thought
edit jus realized that youre working with the newer CL version
I realised that my question was abit fuzzy without an image so here you go, (look at TP 39)
http://www.clockswork.org/DSCN2339.JPG
As you can see the TP point is, goneā¦ well the solder is atleast and my A and Guide signal doesnt seem to work now (they are soldered to the other side of the PCB). Could this be the thing causing the problem, I could see that for the A signal but why my Guide signal isnāt working is a mystery to me. Iām using the common line above the A signal for all of the other buttons and they work fine.
So any thaughts on this will be greatly appreciated
Iām not very good at this tech stuff but I do know my way around photoshop so if anyone is looking to get some value for their answer and wants some custom made art, Iād be more than happy to help you guys out.
I just realized that you have the CL versionā¦ wow srry lol
if You scrubbed that tp pointā¦ im not sure what can be done
maybe someone else can chime in
Allright, so I take it that there is a direct connection between TP points and the big copper pads on the front of the PCB?
Also, is there just solder in the TP points or is there copper aswell? Maybe someone could tell me if Iām just missing the solder or if I actually ruined my TP point.
I believe you ruined the tp point
