*The "padhacking" thread*

Set the multimeter to read DC and ground one side. your gonna need to plug the controller into the console to find the power source though

Ah, okay thanks =) I’m gonna try it.

Hey guys,

I did my first mod on this pad:

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/4827/madcatz2008sp4.jpg

All the buttons and triggers are great, but my joystick is completely wacked out. Sometimes the right won’t work, and sometimes left won’t work. Every now and then up gives up (no pun). But it’s always one connection only. It’s as if they take turns. 3 always work, and 1 always goes out. Every now and then they all work. My soldering wasn’t on point, but it wasn’t that bad.

If you solder on the big metal sections of the D-pad, will the signal not be as strong? Does it have to be on the small circle?

Also, if the wire is a bit high from the point you want to solder to, is the connection strength weaker? Does the signal not go through all the way? Someone told me the solder is conductive.

I’m going to re-solder tomorrow. Hopefully it works.

Oh one last thing, what reading would indicate the power? I got a lot of 3.18s so far.

You can solder onto the larger part of the pad, it’s the same thing. Look over where you soldered and make sure you didn’t make any “cold solder joints.” That’s most likely the case.

Read the bottom section about cold solder joints… actually read the whole thing.

sorry for the noob question, but whats the advantages of hacking a psx/ds and hacking a older psx pad w/o ds?

I may be wrong but from what I know from reading the forums, the ones with the ds analog sticks tend to have better compatibility with the ps3 usb converters

So if I was only interested in building a stick to connect to a PS2, a PSX digital pad should work just as well as a PSX DS right?

I will also be trying to take on my first project soon. Do you experienced folks drill holes through pad PCB first and then pass wire through them and solder on the back, or do you just solder the wire on the top of the PCB?

hey all,
i have a little problem with my psx1 padhack. all buttons work. but only the “down” direction of the stick seems to be recognized.
i wired the stick cable this way (sanwa jlf):
1- ground
2- right
3- left
4- up
5- down

can anyone help me out?

here some pictures of the pad:
http://tt08.kilu.de/IMG_0553.jpg
http://tt08.kilu.de/IMG_0555.jpg
http://tt08.kilu.de/IMG_0556.jpg

(the triangle wire got lost while creating those pictures >.> )
i have used these schematics http://arkadesticks.com/hackedpads/wiredPSOneand3.3volt.jpg

[edit]
just read that the up/left/right wires have to be on the opposit side as my wires? is that correct?

@Dexa

It looks like you have all the wires on the directions except down connected to common ground. I’m guessing the diagram you used doesn’t work for your pcb or your pcb is a bit different.

@rajendra82

The digital pad should work fine

has anyone padhacked the sf4 fightpad for the ps3 yet? if so sorry for asking again cause i cant seem to find anything on it. im getting one for free from the eb were i won distracts for sf4.my stick has a pcb for every system so this is the final one and i need it for ps3 cause i cant find a converter that works with my ps1 pcb.

Anyone have any info on hacking a Dreamcast Performance Astropad? The trigger assembly looks really wonky.

There’s an ongoing thread about it.

Don’t forget that the PS3 SFIV FightPad is literally wireless, as in no plug for USB at all, only the USB dongle.

Hey guys, had this Joytech Neo Se laying around, marked as 4716 on the case(if that matters at all with the neo’s) Ive searched for info on this pcb but there seems to be conflicting opinion weather it’s CG or not. Can a knowledgeable SRK guru see which it is from these pics?

Cheers guys:tup:

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j130/daveyf1971/Frontpcb.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j130/daveyf1971/Backpcb.jpg

^ It appears to be common ground on the DPAD.

See how there is one unbroken trace that connects one side of all four directions? (The words “left” and “up” are written over the trace I’m referring to).

That = common ground.

However, to confirm this, grab your multimeter, set it to continuity test mode (usually a little icon of a diode) and test this by touching the leads to both connection points on UP and DOWN. There are two points per direction, so you have four combinations to try.

If the multimeter tells you there is continuity between ANY of the four combinations of points, you have just confirmed the common ground.

:tup:

im sorry to quote this picture, BUT THAT IS JUST SICK (or im just sick)

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t11/parabellum9x19/Arcade/Zombie_qpt_solder_MC360_03.jpg

Yeah dude…when I opened it up and saw the level of work zombie did I was like.

:hitit:

you have already hit that if the picture tells the truth, right on the cables xD!!!

EEEEWWWWWWW.

Hot glue!

(Oh man…that still sounds gross…FML).

hah sry! im out :smiley: