*The "padhacking" thread*

[KOAB]

Thanks for the quick reply. Mine looks like neither. Well, it looks more like the second one than the first. I wonder if it’s some bizarre bootleg or something, but it’s worked just fine so far. What do you think?

Also, anyone up for hacking this for me? I can send, along with the controller, wire, terminal blocks, fork ends, quick disconnects for both sizes. I will pay some, too, but hopefully not a lot.

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/9966/0313092241.th.jpg

For those of you wondering what the result of this great mystery is…
Well, it really is neither of them. It is more similar to the non common ground one though. As a result, I believe it is non common ground. You will notice, the apparatus for the triggers are white plastic like the late version, not black plastic like the early version. That chip is on the opposite side.

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/8334/0314091308.th.jpghttp://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9864/0314091309.th.jpg

[bakageta]

That’s weird, that is definitely a matrix controller… The chip isn’t on the opposite side of the diagram, the diagram just has the board upside down from how both of your pictures are…

[KOAB]

Oh, you’re right. The diagrams are funny because the guy who took the pictures pulled the cord the wrong way, then took the pictures. But anyway, there are definitely some differences.

I should have just done the D-pad mod while I had this open, but I normally play with a wireless.

[Riotblade]

Anyone have experience with the old Madcatz Dual Force II PS2 controller? I had this sitting around and I need to get a PS2 PCB for a stick. I’m disassembled it and was wondering if it was any good.

Here are some pics:

Back:

http://seedchan.net/images/sticks/madcatz1.JPG

Front:

http://seedchan.net/images/sticks/madcatz2.JPG

I am new with this whole padhacking thing. Anyone know if I can cut the black and red wires on the left and right sides to disconnect the rumble motor or would that screw it up? I’m also guessing I can just cut the analog wires.

Thanks

EDIT I removed the rumble motors without any side effects. I’m still holding off the analog until somebodies confirms.

[System_1]

Thanks bakageta that did the trick! I just set the triggers to neutral and walla it worked like a champ!

[bakageta]

Anyone have experience with the old Madcatz Dual Force II PS2 controller? I had this sitting around and I need to get a PS2 PCB for a stick. I’m disassembled it and was wondering if it was any good.

Here are some pics:

Back:
http://seedchan.net/images/sticks/madcatz1.JPG

Front:
http://seedchan.net/images/sticks/madcatz2.JPG

I am new with this whole padhacking thing. Anyone know if I can cut the black and red wires on the left and right sides to disconnect the rumble motor or would that screw it up? I’m also guessing I can just cut the analog wires.

Thanks

EDIT I removed the rumble motors without any side effects. I’m still holding off the analog until somebodies confirms.

Unfortunately, you probably can’t just remove the analogs and be fine, that’ll end up with both analogs reading as either always in one of the four corners. You can always pop the little nubs off to save some space… The good news is that pad looks to be a common ground.

Thanks bakageta that did the trick! I just set the triggers to neutral and walla it worked like a champ!

Glad to hear it!

[System_1]

Sure, but you can use just one 4.7k if you like. The resistor values arent too important, as long they’re rather high, say over 2k.

Update, can confirm one 4.7k resistor on each, LT/RT point is enough. Have removed both trigger’s and pot’s and they are working fine. However, my only problem now is the sync button. Can someone help me on this, are there any alternative points i can older to?

Thanks

[System_1]

For those of you wondering what the result of this great mystery is…
Well, it really is neither of them. It is more similar to the non common ground one though. As a result, I believe it is non common ground. You will notice, the apparatus for the triggers are white plastic like the late version, not black plastic like the early version. That chip is on the opposite side.

I have the same controller as KOAB. Here are some photographs of higher quality:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/no1use/360pad.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/no1use/360padd.jpg

I am going to assume that because it has that late version sticker on the back, it is common ground. But if some wiz here can confirm this for KOAB and I, it would be very much appreciated.

Also, can you solder directly onto the metal points of the LB and RB buttons like some diagrams have? Such as this one:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/no1use/Xbox360wired.jpg

I know Slagcoin has them in the back, but my pad is nothing like their late version pad.

[KOAB]

The thing is, by looking at the pure amount of traces on the PCB, I’d have to assume it’s a non-common ground. The common ground diagram has very little going on in the bottom frame, right side. Ours have a whole mess of traces, more similar to the early version.

[KOAB]

Crap, so we are better off attaching two wires to each button huh? That’s going to be a nightmare. I’m going to attempt to do it anyway.

What are we supposed to do for the directional pad? What if it has more than one ground? We won’t be able to use the 5-pin cable huh?

This sucks.

From what I understand, you could A) Get a LS-32, but then mounting becomes a nightmare, or B) replace the PCB and microswitches with cherry or omrom microswitches. I don’t know if I have the patience for this…

[System_1]

From what I understand, you could A) Get a LS-32, but then mounting becomes a nightmare, or B) replace the PCB and microswitches with cherry or omrom microswitches. I don’t know if I have the patience for this…

I’m going to wire up the controller as if it is common ground. If it is not, i’ll just purchase another control. I’ll probably be doing this tomorrow. I’ll let you know how it goes.

I actually bought an LS-32-01. I’m definitely not waiting another 2 weeks just to get cherry switches.

[bakageta]

For cherry switches, just go pester the tech at your local arcade, offer him some cash for 4. Odds are good they have a quite a few onhand.

[System_1]

For cherry switches, just go pester the tech at your local arcade, offer him some cash for 4. Odds are good they have a quite a few onhand.

Is that what they typically use to replace for arcade cabs? I could try, but I doubt i’d have the courage to. Very shy when it comes to that stuff :\

KOAB: Our PCB’s are non-common ground. They’re exactly like the early versions. Take the time to analyze all the points. Compare it to the early PCB. If not, just take a look at the shapes on the back of it and you’ll see how it’s exactly.

Not good news at all for the LS-32-01. Is there any way to get around this using a 5-pin connector? This SUUCKS~

[bakageta]

Pretty much all Happ parts use cherry brand switches, or all that I can think of… Our local arcade has a giant stockpile of spare parts for when something inevitably breaks, and they’ve got a large tupperware container full of cherry switches. There might even be an arcade parts distributor near you if you don’t want to just ask a tech at the arcade, but they’re nowhere near as hard to find as the various Japanese parts.

[KOAB]

You might be able to cut the traces on the PCB like people were doing on their JLFs then solder onto the points on the PCB. Yes, Cherry switches are used in almost all American style arcade cabinets.

[System_1]

Is it possible to rip off the plastic that makes the triggers on the MadCatz?

They’re real loose and real easy to rip off. But I’m afraid that by doing so, I might leave the button on or something. Would you recommend to leave it on as is? It would give me more room if I ripped them off.

[bakageta]

You can remove all of the plastic trigger hardware, as long as you leave the pots on. I’d use a small drop of superglue or hot glue to hold the pots in the right position, but it’s not absolutely needed.

[Frankoman77]

Hey, I’m kind of new here and here is my situation. I have an old custom arcade stick originally designed for a PS2. I disconnected everything because I want to install an official MS wired pad.

The person who made my stick apparently did a daisy chain with the grounds but I have the old style controller which doesn’t have common ground. Is there no way to use the current daisy chain setup with the old controller or am I going to have to do 2 wires per button.

Also, I was going to have gamingnow.net do one for me but apparently they don’t offer that service anymore. Does anyone know of anyone who does good work that can hack a pad for me??

Any advice would be appreciated

[System_1]

Hey, I’m kind of new here and here is my situation. I have an old custom arcade stick originally designed for a PS2. I disconnected everything because I want to install an official MS wired pad.

The person who made my stick apparently did a daisy chain with the grounds but I have the old style controller which doesn’t have common ground. Is there no way to use the current daisy chain setup with the old controller or am I going to have to do 2 wires per button.

Any advice would be appreciated

The daisy chain won’t work because there is no common ground on your pad. You COULD use it for buttons that have a common ground, but not on al of them.

Bakageta: What are pots? I have never heard/read that term on these forums or on slagcoin. I don’t see any kind of pot-like stuff underneath my triggers. So I guess I’ll pull them off and it should be good to go, right?

[bakageta]

The pots are potentiometers, the only part of the trigger hardware that’s soldered to the board. The plastic trigger junk should come loose from them. In the picture you posted, they’re on the back of the controller, the little black piece that all of the white trigger hardware is connected to.