*The "padhacking" thread*

[impossible]

Both… Those aren’t Madcatz at all, and not common ground. Weird that your gamestop only carries those, my local one carries both those and the rebranded madcatz.

Thanks for the replies and clarifications.

Going to try a couple of other sources tonight, and hope for better luck. Worst case, I’ll trek over to the Walmart at some point this weekend to see if I can’t find a Joytech Neo.

[System_1]

Well, first thing, you’re not using the same ground on LT/RT that you did on all of the other buttons, right? They’re not on the same common, so if you just connected them to the chain that would be one reason they don’t work. Also, I’ve never tried to do the triggers without removing the pots, you may actually need to remove the pots and use a resistor as well.

Thanks for the reply. I have used the exact same ground as in the picture on the slagcoin website, the ground in pink. So, do you think the only way to get it working is by removing the pots and adding a 10k resistor?

Also, how do i get the sync button working? i’ve attached this also, exactly like in the image but this don’t work too.

thnaks

[bakageta]

The sync button should work just like any other digital button, there’s nothing special about it and there’s no need to remove the switch. As for the triggers, I was fairly sure that you had to remove the pots and use a resistor, I’ve just always started out doing it that way so hadn’t tested myself.

[System_1]

The most common thing you’ll be using it for is testing for continuity, and yep, you’ll just be touching two points on the board. Any digital multimeter will have a setting for it, I’ve never messed with an analog multimeter so I couldn’t give you any first-hand experience there. The icon should look like a triangle with a line through the middle, and most also have a small three-wave speaker icon next to it, as they beep if you’ve got low resistance.

If you have a pcb that isn’t mapped out, you can map it out yourself fairly easy. Start with any button, check one side of the contact against both sides of all other buttons and the dpad. If it has 0 resistance to a contact on every button, you have the ground for the button you’re testing, and it’s a common ground. If it has 0 resistance to only a few buttons, 1-2 generally, you have the ground for the button you’re testing, and your controller isn’t common ground. If it doesn’t match any other connection, you have the signal for that button, switch to the other contact and check if it’s common ground or not. If it’s not a common ground, make sure to map out which buttons share a common.

If you’re worried about a short, the same setting is what you use, just touch each probe to the two things you’re worried about, and 0 resistance means yes, you’ve got a short.

Thanks for the help, I picked up the cheapest digital multimeter I could find and it’s been very useful. So far I’ve been able to test one of the trigger points I thought I may of ripped up to find that its ok and promptly glued that fucker down. Was also able to test a point that was pretty close to being shorted but looked fine. It gave a reading, albeit a very high one, so I sorted that out too. Thanks again.

[tharimrattler]

Does anyone know if the Tekken 5 pcb has a 3.3 or 5v? If so, where?

Any takers?

[System_1]

The sync button should work just like any other digital button, there’s nothing special about it and there’s no need to remove the switch. As for the triggers, I was fairly sure that you had to remove the pots and use a resistor, I’ve just always started out doing it that way so hadn’t tested myself.

thanks again. When i get some time, i’ll remove the pots and give that a go, see what happens. Don’t know why but the sync button didn’t work for me. I’ll try again when i do LT and RT.

[System_1]

Ive just been randomly testing a few points on an official xbox 360 matrix pcb and noticed that quite a lot of points are coming back with 0 resistance. For example:

Is this normal or have I screwed something up?

[Ragnorok64]

With the Madcatz reto Gamestick, what’s the best way to remove those tabs on the pcb that the LB and RB were attached to?

[System_1]

With the Madcatz reto Gamestick, what’s the best way to remove those tabs on the pcb that the LB and RB were attached to?

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram2.jpg

Your trusty pliers will do the job. They’ll snap right off with a little bit of force.

[i23mix]

I was working on my retro gamestick the other day and managed to remove the slider potentiometer thing and the 2 analog sticks. It was damn frustrating taking those sticks out. Also managed to rip the middle contact point off on the right trigger but luckily there was another point I could solder to. Just need to wait for my parts to come in from LL to start modding.

[bakageta]

Ive just been randomly testing a few points on an official xbox 360 matrix pcb and noticed that quite a lot of points are coming back with 0 resistance. For example:

http://i44.tinypic.com/fvikv8.jpg

Is this normal or have I screwed something up?

The two points you have red arrows to aren’t associated with any of the buttons, and there’s no map of what they connect to, so I don’t have any way of saying if they should be connected or not offhand… Still, unless you were specifically messing with them, I’m going to say it’s fine. These are fairly complicated controllers, there are plenty of points that are interconnected.

[Ragnorok64]

Your trusty pliers will do the job. They’ll snap right off with a little bit of force.

Turns out they are only held in place by solder. I was removing old solder form the contact point on one just fell off.

The middle tab come off of one of my triggers to. I just scraped and attached next to it.

[akuma001]

Any takers?

should be a 3.3v

looking at the pcb with the green side up it should be 5th pin down from where the psx cord is connected.

i’m just going off memory but you’ll know it’s the one because it has a thick line to the right of the pin tracing it back to the chip.

[vizard]

So I posted earlier for help with my madcatz late 360 pcb I soldered wires to the Y and UP points posted here: http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram3.jpg

I made a daisy chain from the wire I soldered at the Y point and the buttons work perfect, but the stick didn’t work at all. I’m using a sanwa JLF with a 5-pin but the 5-pin is a seimitsu 5-pin and I connected it to my pcb using a wire terminal(Including the ground wire from the up point) but the stick didn’t work. Help would be much appreciated cause I REALLY wanna play SF4 on stick cause I don’t see my JLW coming from lizard lick for a while now:sad: Thanks.

[System_1]

SI’m using a sanwa JLF with a 5-pin but the 5-pin is a seimitsu 5-pin and I connected it to my pcb using a wire terminal(Including the ground wire from the up point) but the stick didn’t work.

Can you please post a photograph? I’m not sure what you mean.

Is it not taking any of the directions? On my PS2 stick, I did not have a 5-pin female connector available so I had to solder DIRECTLY onto the 5-pins on the microswitch board. When I connected to the PCB, it was only reading two directions completely wrong. So I took my stock SE stick apart and examined the microswitch board. I found out which pin corresponded to what, re-attached wires to PCB, and it worked great! I had gotten some info about the 5-pins and which gives signal to what, but it didn’t apply to the SE stock stick. The reason I’m explaining this is you might have mixed up the wires, therefore the signal isn’t going through. Make sure your daisy chain connects to your ground wire on your 5-pin female connector.

[System_1]

As wished by Drachenherz :razz: here`s a pic of the pad-hack. Its an Big-Ben Xbox360 PCB.

http://www.pic-upload.de/13.03.09/ccl5b6.jpg

The Trigger-Buttons arent soldered yet, cause of a lack of wires :rolleyes:
On Saturday im going to buy a new wire-set and finish the job.

[System_1]

thanks again. When i get some time, i’ll remove the pots and give that a go, see what happens. Don’t know why but the sync button didn’t work for me. I’ll try again when i do LT and RT.

i’m going to remove the triggers and pots tomorrow and wanted to know whether i could use, two 4.7k resistors instead of, one 10k resistor on LT and RT?

thanks

[Toodles]

i’m going to remove the triggers and pots tomorrow and wanted to know whether i could use, two 4.7k resistors instead of, one 10k resistor on LT and RT?

thanks

Sure, but you can use just one 4.7k if you like. The resistor values arent too important, as long they’re rather high, say over 2k.

[System_1]

Sure, but you can use just one 4.7k if you like. The resistor values arent too important, as long they’re rather high, say over 2k.

thanks.

[System_1]

I used 1k resistors on mine since the pots only registered 100 ohms (for both Vin to wiper and from wiper to Gnd). This is for the madcatz pad though.