*The "padhacking" thread*

I posted this while ago in a separate thread but never really got an answer.
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=174801
I have a somewhat broken DS3 at my house. I threw it to the ground once and the R1 stopped working. Every other button worked except the R1. The button doesn’t seem to be physically broken, so I’m thinking it’s a PCB issue. Is it possible to jump from the 19’th pin to another point on the PCB and attempt to get the controller working again?

There seems to be a red and orange “R1” on the left part of this pic, that’s confusing me.

I done know if what your trying will work or not, but the point you want is the orange R1. The other point represents RI (or RIGHT) for the D-Pad.

so whats easier to solder, the madcatz or the microsoft pad?

I guess awe can file this one under impossible. Jumping those locations accomplished nothing. Anyone want to hazard a guess as to why just one button stopped working?

I’ve tried different film PCB’s in it and it still didn’t work.

Get a multi metter and check for condinuity from the pin to that point. could be a broken trace.

From what i’ve read the original digital only pad doesn’t work with the inpin ps1/2->ps3 converter so you might want to consider that, also I don’t know about removing the analog sticks but i’ve seen people’s builds where they still have that little metal boxes and only removed the rubber sticks from them to save space.

For the UK people the above is the same PCB layout as the madcatz 360 gamepad being sold at argos item 568/1534. All common ground so works nice.

What is the best and easier way to extend the headset port from a 360 MadCatz controller ?

I’m using this one :

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram2.jpg

Just buy a mini-plug extension at Radio Shack or extend the cable from the PCB desoldering and soldering longer cables ?

If I buy the mini-plug extension, any specific extension I need to llok for ?

Thanks !

Great thread. I’ve ordered some sanwa/seimitsu parts, and am working on my box for this. So far, so good, time to start the hack while i wait for buttons to come in. I’ve looked at local gamestops and they have what seems to be the 2008 black mad catz controller and the mad catz arcade stick, both new for ridiculously cheap. Am i correct in taking the arcade stick to avoid the NPN issue with the trigger, and that a brand new arcade stick should be common ground?

Just getting some things under my belt. Not worried about wiring or soldiering, i’ve got quite the background in that, just don’t wanna plop down money on something that’s gonna suck vs something easy.

Has anyone hacked the Sega Saturn USB pad to work on 360? If so, could you post a tutorial or instructions? Thanks.

If this has already been posted, I apologize, but the search function doesn’t work.

Either method you mentioned will work, the extension is easier but has the downside of showing you always have a headset plugged in even if you don’t, so if you get a wireless headset you won’t be able to sync it to that controller. You’ll also need to set your 360 to play voice through both headset and speakers if you want to hear anyone when you don’t have a headset plugged in.

I believe you can desolder the jack and just solder a cable in to avoid this, but it’s more complicated, and I haven’t personally tested to make sure it does show that you unplugged the headset. If you don’t ever plan to get a wireless headset, a short extension cable will be easier to deal with. Any 2.5mm extension will be fine.

Yep, the arcade sticks are all common ground and normal triggers, not to mention gamestop should have them marked to $9.99 instead of the $24.99 the controllers cost. Both are actually really easy to work with, just a couple dollars more in parts to make the triggers work on the new controllers.

Instead of using a 5-pin connector for the stock SE joystick, is it okay if you solder wire directly to the five points? I’m going to make a stick for PS2 out of stock SE, but I don’t want to place an order for a cable. It would take too long :<

Thanks.

yeah just solder to the 5 points on the pcb just above the 5 pins. Maybe add a barrier strip inbetween the pad pcb and the 5 points.

Thanks. I was afraid soldering the copper straight on would damage the pins. But that’s essentially what the plastic does right? It holds the wires so the copper makes contact with the pins?

I’ll definitely be using a terminal strip. European Style!

EDIT: A question about the Cthulhu board:
Can it be used on a PS2? I understand it’s backwards compatible with PS2/PS1 one games ON a PS3, but can it be connected to the USB on a PS2? Or is there any other board for the PS2 which is as easy to connect as the Cthulhu?

After doing my first arcade stick, i’m going to do another one, but this time i wanted to make a slim 8 button arcade stick, using an official xbox 360 wireless pcb. I also want to connect a sync button and wanted to know if this was possible? As i’m sick and tired of having to open the case to access the sync button.

thnaks

I finally hacked my first pad, successfully!

I was one of the shittiest pads to do, a BB-070 from Gamestop… it had like 6-7 different grounds, so I just ran 2 wires from each input :confused:

I’s remarkable how difficult it is to trouble shoot without a multimeter.

if you’re hacking pads, you needs one!

How exactly do you use a multimeter with a pad? I’ve wanted to purchase one, but I wouldn’t know how to use.

Silly question, but I’d like to know :slight_smile:

I want to padhack the 360 Madcatz gamestick into a FS3 and make it work on PS3 and 360. I want all 8 button to work so I’m wondering how to set “set the triggers to neutral” I’m thinking the two wires shown in this pic will do that, maybe, but I don’t really know how to do this.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I did search this thread before but didn’t turn up anything.

Page 85-86 should help you from post #2121 and on

I’m not sure if the FS3 has a common ground pcb though if you are planning to dual mod it.

It’s common ground.