I’m planning on using the triggers for my 8 button stick, and so when I was taking off the RT potentiometer I kinda ripped the two top pads off. (High and the wiper, correct?)
Just looking at the traces I assume I could solder the resistor between these two spots marked in white? Could someone tell me if this would work?
right guys, i got myself a late version wireless 360 pad and soldered in the pcb and it’s working all good. Now i just need some nice high res street fighter artwork to put on my custom fight stick. Are there any site’s for this, if so can you please post a link.
Thanks for the help guys.
No. The signals labeled in red need to tie in to the red common, and the signals labeled in pink need to tie in to the pink ground. The red is just a common for all of the digital signals, while the pink is a true ground.
You’ve got the basic idea of padhacking, but the resistors are used only when trying to hook a digital button to an analog input. The way the analog signal works is, for example, 5v is considered not pressed, grounded is considered fully pressed, and some portion in between is how it determines how hard you’re pushing the trigger. When we remove the pot that controls this, we need to hook the 5v to the signal line to make it think the button isn’t pressed. We do this with a resistor, because we tie a button between ground and signal, and short to ground when we press the button, jumping to fully pressed. If we didn’t have a resistor, when we pressed the button there would also be a direct connection between 5v and ground, causing a short on the pad. The resistor just keeps it from shorting out, so we can use all of the buttons on a pad.
If the pad is using grounded for unpressed, and 5v (or 3.3v, or any “high”) as pressed, we need to use a transistor and a pair of resistors to basically invert our signal, so that we can use the button with a common ground setup. There’s a giant thread on this though, and not something most people need.
That should be fine.
Ebgames canada has the madcatz common ground controller available. I just grabbd one yesterday at th York Mills/Leslie location, 39.99. I mapped all the buttons for all to see and it’s also posted on JoystickVault.
Ah I think I see. So if I use a wired 360 pad as my base and I utilise the 4 face buttons, the 2 shoulder bumpers (not the analogue ones) and the dpad instead of the analogue sticks I wouldnt have to use resistors for hooking up the arcade stick and buttons to the circuit board, is that right? I can just leave the other inputs from the original controler to their own devices?
Thanks for the input.
garrison
let me re phrase the question. there are two points marked as common ground, the back and A buttons can I use either for my common ground? Not talking about the pink one.
Funny I was just out at my local eb games picking up a common ground official 360 controller and they happened to have 1 PS3 SF4 controller, the blanka one. It was weird guy said they have has it for a few days and he just put it out now. too bad I dont have a ps3 or I would have liked to try it.
Can someone please help with this pcb.Why does it say avoid.What would I need to do to make it useable.Thanks…
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram6.jpg
i just picked up a bb-070, where are the places to solder for the lb and rb and the start button:confused. this is my first pad hack, any details/pictures will help greatly, im pretty nervous and dont want to screw up
I’ve already melted my wireless xbox controller… 50 bucks down the tubes.
Be careful!
Just a quick question. Is there any way of telling the diff Madcatz pads? The only model number I can find is MOV547160/04/1 ( http://www.cclonline.com/product-info.asp?product_id=27326&category_id=211&manufacturer_id=0&tid=mov547160/04/1 ) Is there anyway of telling if this is the early version or the late with common ground? Would make it alot easier.
Reason im asking is that I already have 2 wired 360 controllers, old versions, and dont want the hassle of messing around with the stick
Yep, that works just fine, that’s what I prefer to do. You can pull all the plastic trigger hardware off also, and then just turn the pots to where they’d be if they weren’t pressed, to make the board sit better inside your stick.
Totally misunderstood you, sorry about that. Yep, that’s fine, you can use either of the red common points and chain that to every button you use, as long as it’s not a trigger. If you don’t like either of them, you could also use any of the opposite halves of the buttons themselves.
The only way I’ve found is by the copyright year on the back of the controller, 2007 and up seem to be the common ground ones, and 2006 are the older style.
I just finished hacking my 360 pad http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb...0_diagram1.jpg
My question is I got one of the seimitsu 24mm clear plunger buttons. I want to use it for the guide button and stay lit while the controller is on. How do I go about doing this? Or can I be directed to a thread with this info cause I couldnt seem to find it.
That isn’t going to be a fun task… You’ll need to desolder the ROL LEDs on the board, and extend them to wherever your button is. They’re surface mount, so you probably want to look into replacing them with larger LEDs, but I couldn’t give you any advice there. The one thing to keep in mind is that most if not all controllers have the LEDs with a common high, and ground them to light up, so keep that in mind when hooking up a new LED in it’s place.
Alternatively, you could just wire an LED and resistor to the 5v of the cord, but I do believe the 360 has power going to the usb’s for charging, so it may end up lit any time the controller is plugged in, but not necessarily on.
Your best bet might be on xbox-scene.com, check through tutorials people had about lighting their controllers or guide buttons.
I’m planning to build my first custom arcade stick using a PSX DS pcb and i’m wondering what the +5v or 3.3v is all about. Can’t i just solder 2 wires to each button and dpad (1 to signal and 1 to ground) and connect them to the Sanwa buttons and joystick? do i need to solder the 3.3v (redwire)… I’m a noob and trying to learn how to build one.
Also about multi pcbs in 1 box. I was planning on building a 360+psx arcade stick but on one of the other thread they were talking about soldering the +5v(360 pad) to the 3.3v(psx) points and ground to ground. What is the purpose of that? cant i just wire each button from the 360 pcb to the sanwa buttons and wire each button from the psx pcb to the same sanwa buttons and make sure two controller plugs are never connected to two systems at the same time. I’m confused about the purpose of connecting the +5v to 3.3v…please help me!!!
Its a wired controller not wireless. So I dont hting theres a charge feature.
Could you explain to me how to set up the led in a button?. Also what resistor to use? and any other usefull information.
?? If you don’t know why you’d need it, I don’t see why you’d want to.
I tell you what; go ahead. Ignore the advice given. Hell, there’s a chance it will work, too.
But when you notice that it doesn’t work right, that buttons you didn’t press start activating, please imagine a loud “I TOLD YOU SO”.
“But I just wanted to know why!” Then you should have read that same thread where that same question is asked every page.
thanx toodles, ur a big help. i checked out the info on http://www.slagcoin.com/ sorry for the noob questions…
I used a cheap PSOne PCB for my arcade stick and it has worked so far, even when I got a PS3 and used an USB adapter for it. Well, until I got Virtua Fighter 5, which, even if it only uses the d-pad, it only detects it if the analog button is on. I guess I’ll have to replace the PCB with a PS2 one, but my USB adapter doesn’t automatically turn on the analog like a PS2, so I would have to connect it to another button, and that would be a waste of space. Is there some way to make the PCB think the analog is always on, like with a resistor or something like that?
