lol yeah, I searched on Slagcoin… and a forum post reply to a thread of mine regarding the matter agreed with me… but I guess it has been mapped.
That picture shows the madcatz logo, which means its the older version? the late version has the gamestop logo and the 2007 copyright and the newer one has the gamestop logo and the 2008 copyright
Just buy it at gamestop if your worried about getting the right controller…
I still need an alternate solder point for the 2008 madcatz controller for the guide signal contact… the circled one on the diagram
This pad is more than likely a no-go. See here for the diagram.
I asked Slagcoin to put that up but he said that he’s very busy with life at the moment. I have to spam it frequently. And like you said, get a pointy handled GameStop pad. It’s a safe bet.
Here’s one… just don’t pay too much for it. I haven’t opened a MS 360 pad because they’re too expensive for my blood. Hell, the last GameStop pad I bought was $10 used.
Thanks, but $21 american for shipping to canada 0_0 heh
I see some photos of peoples sticks with the microsoft wired pcb and it seems to be common but like this madcatz but i guess its even harder to find unless you buy and crack it open then?
Those five wires connect to five solder points on the main pcb. Unscrew the small dpad board and go through each of the five solder points one by one heating the solder and nudging the wire out of the way. It’s not quite as easy as the big spots on the dpad board, but I prefer soldering to the five spots underneath anyways. Eyeball the dpad board to figure out which of the five spots is ground and each direction.
Thanks for the advice but I’m still a little confused.
I have unscrewed the grey plastic board under the d pad. Am I suppoused to remove the 5 wires from under the d pad, keepin in mind those same 5 wires are already detached from the pcb. So am I suppoused to have no wires connect between the dpad and the pcb. If so what do I do from there?
If they’re already detached from the main pcb, and the pads they were soldered to are still there and usable, just use those pads. If those pads got torn off of the main board, you’re going to have to get a little hacky with it.
I have a wireless 360 pad that I hacked only to discover after I put it in my stick, that it thinks there is a wired mic attached whether there is or not. This means voice chat doesn’t come through the TV and I can’t pair a wireless mic with it. If I actually plug in a wired mic, it works fine, but I want to go the wireless mic route. I tried actually removing the mic port from the pcb, but that didn’t help. No evidence of damage around the traces it’s connected to. Has anyone ever heard of this problem? Any ideas how to fix it?
This is no damage to your board; its a compatibility problem with the wireless headsets. Even older MS controllers wont sync with it. Do some googling or searching on youtube and youll see lots of descriptions of the problem.
Next time, test the pcb out with the wireless headset before hacking it into your stick. If it will work with the pad before hacking, it should be fine in your stick. If it doesn’t work with the pad before hacking, no way in hell it will work with the pad in your stick.
I have this PCB, and before I wire it, I have a question about the triggers.
I don’t plan on using the triggers, so if I were to remove the plastic triggers connected to the PCB, would that be fine on it’s own? Or would I have to do something else to ensure that the triggers don’t activate?
did search google with “SRK padhacking resistors” and it helped a bit.
I am using the live retro stick and using the slag coin diagram it just shows where to put the triggers wires but not where the resistors go. If you still have the pots on there do you need resistors at all?
