I got it working:wgrin:
Thanks for the help, you saved me $20.
I noticed the same thing about the triggers when testing.
Also, is the âXbox homeâ button supposed to show up in the test? Everything registers except for a button 9.
I believe those points are for the click buttons on the analog sticks. No need to wire those up to anything unless you want extra buttons.
Almost. The problem with this pad is that the triggers use actual ground, while all the rest of the buttons use a separate common line. The way youâve got it wired, the triggers are using the common line and not true ground, which probably wonât work. Iâd say your best bet is to simply not use the triggers. That still leaves you with 6 buttons which should be enough for any fighting game I can think of.
The other problem is that the common line youâre using for all your controls is not actually connected to the common ground on the hori PCB at all, so the controls arenât likely to work on that PCB at all. Unfortunately, you canât just link the Hori ground to your 360 pad common line, because the hori ground is also connected to the 360 pad ground which needs to be kept separate from the 360 common. You might be able to just remove the pink connection between 360 ground and hori ground, and just connect the hori ground up to the red common line, but Iâm not 100% sure that will work.
That Iâm not sure about. It might work, but the safer bet would be to use separate USB cables.
-=The Jesster: Gatchaba Goose=-
iâm going to make myself a custom arcade stick for the xbox 360. What i want to know is, are there any issueâs, with the early version, of the official xbox 360 controller pcb?
thanks.
Anyone have information on a Joytech Neo SE xbox 360 pad?
Wanted to put this into my old dreamcast agetec stick.
I went all around, and out of 5 gamestops, they only had legit ms pads, even used was $30. I was able to get the joytech used for 20. I hope thats good enough, just tired of searching everywhere just to save a few bucks. I did a quick connect to the pc and all the buttons function good, so worry one about about the pad being bad is negated.
So it seems this does not have common ground.
I have no plans for dual pcb or anything. So If I proceed to just solder the hell out of this and what not, im looking at about 26 solders? A,B,X,Y, LB, RB, Back, Start, Guide and Up, Down, Left, Right?
What a hassle. Im starting to think it might have been easier to get a madcatz sf4 se and just replace the parts. Oh well. fun times ahead.only part worrying me is I want to test the stock agetec stuff first, so I have to disassemble the stick I guess to find a way to solder to separate grounds⌠is that even possible?
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/tehglow/stickpcb.jpg
Thats a bum picture, but I see that the boards ground isnt attached to anything in particular. If I solder to the spots circled in red for each direction, Ill be ok?
Thank you.
Itâs hit or miss on whether these are common ground controllers, there are two models, so it sucks to hear yours wasnât CG. You shouldnât have any problems with buttons on separate grounds, but the stick pcb you posted is common ground. Iâd check to see if the dpad happens to have a common for it, otherwise youâre going to have to cut the ground traces on your joystickâs pcb. Easiest way to test is to plug the pcb into your pc, and short the ground of up to the signal of the other directions. If all the directions fire off of that ground, youâll be fine.
Nod, from what I can research none of the dpads common ground with each other. If I were to solder to the prongs on the switches of the stick pcb, why would I have to cut the traces? also in the event I did this successfully then Id get a sanwa jlf. If I were to just take an xacto knife or something to cut the traces, could I just plop on some solder over the connection in the event I move to a common ground stick? or i guess I could keep it simple and just twist the grounds id solder for the current pcb together. ehh ill cross that bride when i get to it I guess.
Still just confused why to cut the traces or which in particularâŚ
Youâd need to cut the ground trace in 4 places on the joystick pcb (I want to say only 3 on a JLF pcb), so that your dpad grounds wouldnât all be wired together. The way that joystick is set up, thereâs one trace that loops around and ties all of the grounds together to a single pin on the harness, and itâll cause problems if you tried to use that on a controller that isnât common ground.
The JLW and LS-32 (Not LS-32-01) joysticks donât use a pcb, so you can run a separate ground to each switch with no hassle. Iâd recommend using one of these when you go to swap parts, just to save hassle.
(edit)
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5228/stickpcb.jpg
Hereâs a quick mspaint of where youâd need to cut traces to separate the grounds. If youâre wiring the signal wires directly to the switches also you donât need to be careful of the nearby traces, but Iâd still try to avoid just cutting through everything. It should go without saying, but make sure you only scrape enough to sever the trace, you donât want to accidentally end up nearly cutting through the pcb.
Hey guys,
I am on a mission to convert my ps2 custom arcade stick into an xbox 360 arcade stick.
I read a âdo it yourselfâ guide here.http://www.gamersreports.com/article/24/1/
It seems like it would be easiest to just convert my old sticks because then I have no need to build a new box and I already have all of the parts. Given that there seems to be a backorder on ANYTHING SFIV relatedâŚyeahâŚIâll try and mod this.
Only problem I have encountered with that DIY guide:
How do I use a HAPP Perfect 360 Stick in conjunction with an xbox 360 board?
The guide is set up to use a comp stick.
I tried to look and see how they built my ps2 one to see if that would help, but I guess it doesnât. I did some reading around and TOODLEZ said you need to buy special âanalog ICâ or something of that sort to make it work? Or he said he also builds special boards to make perfect 360âs work on the xbox 360 boards.
I was just curious if anyone could help me figure out how to wire the 360 stick to the 360 controller board.
Thanks in advance.
No caps, no âZâ.
What all you have to do varies greatly by which pcb you use. You didnât say which pcb youâre using.
Youâll be tempting to find a picture of what the original controller looks like and post it. Donât. The outside of a controller usually wonât tell us what you need to know. Find a good picture of the board inside, preferably taken yourself. If you have to post âsorry for the crappy cell phone picâ with the picture, stop, and take better pictures before posting.
Ok thanks, figured that would be the case. and I see where you marked it. I was thinking similar but some of those sections are crazy big. hence I wasnt sure that was indeed what I had to do. thanks for explaining. and on that note I think im 99% done with the theory part of doing this crap. only thing left to do is learn how to properly solder onto the pad itself, then where the hell to mount it. hah.
Also is the strain relief worth working around? theres nowhere to really put the pcb that will align the strain relief to the cases hole. and I was thinking of even cutting the main wires from the pcb and splicing them to make them longer⌠or should I just tie a not on the inside and then loop that around the plastic pegs? I figure thats just as safe. not like i have small children swinging on my cables.
Guess ill start solderin the pad this week, and if successful, order the quick disconnects and sanwa stuff.
Also with my multimeter (barely used it in school class that made me buy it) how can I go about finding out which of the 2 is a ground and which is the signal? When I had it hooked up to my pc I would just put the 2 wires for down and it would light up but mixing other would trigger lb and back button. it was weird. Can I put the black lead to an unrelated ground, like on my sticks pcb and with the positive lead just poke around the pad?
I ended up keeping a good eight inches or so of the cable inside the case, and wrapping it behind the mounting post near the buttons, then through the pegs normally used for strain relief and out the slot. You might not have reckless kids pulling on the cable, but itâs better safe than sorry, this way you wonât have to open it to redo the pcb mount or resolder the cable to the pcb.
More trashy mspaint to show off what I meant, since reading over my description doesnât really give me a clear idea, lol.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/4610/loluhy.jpg
If itâs not a common ground pcb, youâre going to need to actually solder two wires per button, and two per direction on the dpad, and with how easy this pad is to solder to, I wouldnât worry too much about trying to find a few commons. All the pads are bare already, so no scraping needed, and the only small points are the lb and rb, which are still very easy.
Hey folks,
Been lurking on these forums since I got SF4, would love to be able to run up in a Gamestop or Best Buy and snag a joystick to go with it but you know how well thatâs gonna work at the moment. So Iâve been thinking of making my own joystick.
I think the main problem is that I want a 8-button joystick (plus the back/home/start buttons) and it seems the triggers can be tricky to deal with. Iâve actually been thinking about using the FightPad I was able to snag before they all dried up, since all the buttons are present with no triggers and it has a handy little left stick/dpad/right stick switch on it. Am I mad? Would it be easier to just find a generic Gamestop controller and use that? Has the FightPad PCB even been mapped out yet?
On a side note, I gotta say⌠it has been extremely nice to see so many people excited about this game and everyone helping each other out in the forums. Iâm getting quite a few ideas from the custom joystick gallery alone!
I like how you managed to put all that in the post, looking for a recommendation of what controller to hack, and completely fail to mention what system itâd be for.
Iâll be pad-hacking a wired xbox 360 control real soon.
I was practicing how to solder on a PS2. I was making a nice bubble on the wire while I held it close to the ps2 PCB, but sure enough it was just a nice bubble of solder that wasnât soldering to the PCB to hold.
Iâm sure I can get better at this with practice. My question is this: Does the copper in the wire need to be making contact with the copper on the signal? Or does the solder also act as a transmitter for the signal?
What iâm afraid of doing is thinking I soldered the wire to the signal on the PCB, but in reality I made a bubble of solder around the wire and connected the solder on the signal point on the PCB. So the wire would be caught in the solder, and the solder would be sitting on top of the signal. Is that okay? Does it make sense?
Also, I found that if I did manage to get the solder to stick along with the wire, it was very easy to pull off with a bit of force. Is this why you guys smother them in glue? Because they are in fact so easy to pull off even if they are soldered very well?
And two more questions:
If I want to use RT and LT on pad, all I have to do is solder to the RT and LT signal for the late version 360 wired, right? Iâve gotten confused reading different posts saying you canât use RT and LT.
For the ground, I only need to connect one wire to the PCB on any ground signal on the controller right? That should cover the ground for all the buttons? I can put it on left, or B ground and it wouldnât matter right?
Sounds like youâre not heating the copper pad up properly, you should rip a trace off the board or break the wire before you pop the solder loose. Make sure the iron is touching both the pad and the wire, and then try to touch your solder to both at the same time, but not to the iron itself. If youâre running out of hands, try heating just the pad until it will melt the solder, and you should end up with a nice small-ish bubble of solder on the pad. Then place your wire directly on top of that, heat just the wire and for just barely long enough to melt the solder, and you should have an acceptable connection. Itâs not going to be as pretty as doing it right, but itâs easier to manage if you donât have 3 hands, and certainly should make a better connection than what it sounds like youâre ending up with⌠
I believe relays work just as well but thats more expensive than a IC chip. Basically you need something that converts the analog signal from the Happ P360 to a digital one for it to work on the 360.
Ive done plenty of soldering before, but would still like advice, or a nice MS paint diagram on this issue, do i need to wire a ground signal for each button to each of the points on the pad? IE: ground and signal from my Y push button to the Y pads etc. or just wire up all the signals for the buttons and then just stick a ground on one of them? i dont really understand the concept of âcommon groundâ
also any information on that trigger problem would be fantastic. got my Sanwa parts coming in a week or so and im ready to rip into my xbox pad 
Hello there and first of all:
This froum is great! Thanks for being there!
Hopefully someone can help me out with a PS1 Dual Shock PCB problem.
Im an absolut beginner to this all, so pls forbear wit me.
After solder&wiring I tested it on a Wii with the MagicPath Converter, everything worked great. Seemed like no laggs on Tatsunoko vs. capcom, movement was fine and i was able to do everything i wanted to. So I took âLaughsâ InPin Converter and plugged it in. On the PS3 it felt like double movements on the dbad, and rapid fire when pushing a button. Every 2 or 3 times there was no reaction at all.
Maybe anyone knows something abut this.
Thanks so far.