*The "padhacking" thread*

[Purrin]

(I’m pretty sure the guide pcb is the same on HRAPEX and EX2…why wouldn’t ? (mine says “HORI, ver 1.0 1323-13LED PCB”)
so to have
led1 on> connect 1&3
led2 on> connect 1&5
led3 on> connect 1&2
led4 on> connect 1&4
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/3193/horiledhackformadcatzarru0.jpg

Edit: not to confuse anybody, when I wrote guide ground I meant the 7th pin of the led hori pcb… not the 360 madcatz arcade guide ground, use any ground you want obviously.
the tension between + and minus on the mardcatz arcade retro leds is 2.00V but the HRAP’s leds will work ok with vcc too.

Thanks for this post! With it I was able to get the lights connected from the MadCatz Retro to a HRAP EX2. Very helpful guide at exactly the time I needed it. Thanks a Ton Shin_Kaz!!

[Bomberman]

Any pics of the Madcatz fighter pad boards for the 360? They don’t seem to have analog triggers (guess) so they might be super easy mods once they come down in price some.

I’m going to post some in a couple of days unless someone else beats me to it.

[System_1]

So, what does it mean where it says “ground”?

I’d like to know cause if i wind up in a particularly crappy situation with the stick i end up with, i was considering trying something like this with a botched controller i tried to mod.

[10_Stars]

The ps2 dual shock A Early version with resistor is listed as good on slagcoin for use with making joysticks http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram1.jpg

But the ps2 dual shock A early version WITHOUT the resistor is listed as one you should avoid. http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram6.jpg

Whats the deal with this, the only difference is the resistor? Have you ran into the board without the resistor and used it or is it going to explode or something

I have both, but i want to use the one without the resistor as the test subject, then use the other as the actual one that goes into the case permanently.

[System_1]

I successfully set up a wired 360 PCB a week or two ago, and this weekend I was planning to set up the triggers to work digitally. It’s a 2008 MadCatz pad, so it requires the **NPN transistor method**. I set up one trigger with that method, and it appeared to work in Windows, as pressing the trigger button caused that analog axis to drop to zero (from 50%) in the Game Controllers panel. However, when I plugged the stick into my 360 running HD:R, it stopped working - the controller was no longer detected by the 360. Now, whenever I plug in my PCB (be it to my PC or 360,) the Ring of Light on the pad momentarily lights up, then shuts down, and the controller is not detected. I’ve removed the transistor assembly from the trigger, but no dice. How can I debug what went wrong with my pad? Did it somehow permanently short out the PCB in some way (I was using 10kOhm resistors for the transistor set-up)? Thanks for any help!

[hyt]

I may be jumping ahead here, but has anyone opened up the MadCatz SF4 Fightpads yet? I didn’t notice any analog buttons and was thinking that it would lead to a resistor-less hack.

[System_1]

I am arranged to hack a pad of 360, it is an original wired pad there is some simple guide to do it?

[Toodles]

I successfully set up a wired 360 PCB a week or two ago, and this weekend I was planning to set up the triggers to work digitally. It’s a 2008 MadCatz pad, so it requires the **NPN transistor method**. I set up one trigger with that method, and it appeared to work in Windows, as pressing the trigger button caused that analog axis to drop to zero (from 50%) in the Game Controllers panel. However, when I plugged the stick into my 360 running HD:R, it stopped working - the controller was no longer detected by the 360. Now, whenever I plug in my PCB (be it to my PC or 360,) the Ring of Light on the pad momentarily lights up, then shuts down, and the controller is not detected. I’ve removed the transistor assembly from the trigger, but no dice. How can I debug what went wrong with my pad? Did it somehow permanently short out the PCB in some way (I was using 10kOhm resistors for the transistor set-up)? Thanks for any help!

Grab a multimeter and test the resistance between the red wire and the black wires from the USB cable. If it’s way low, you do have a short and need to find it and fix it, probably stray solder around one of the trigger pots or somewhere else. Whatever it is, its not permanent, just may be a bitch to hunt down.

[System_1]

Grab a multimeter and test the resistance between the red wire and the black wires from the USB cable. If it’s way low, you do have a short and need to find it and fix it, probably stray solder around one of the trigger pots or somewhere else. Whatever it is, its not permanent, just may be a bitch to hunt down.

Thanks for the help! While I don’t have a multimeter handy to test the USB voltage and ground lines, but I am poring over my PCB to look for any solder spills. I’m not finding any, though. Is there another way I can zero in on which joint might be the issue (could a multimeter help isolate the problem joint?) For the moment, I’ve completely removed all my joints (to make sure its not one wire touching both solder and a ground) but the pad still shuts off immediately after being plugged in.

On another note, I picked up second MadCatz pad of this kind for a do-over, but I’ve accidentally removed the entire solder joint for the trigger pots (so they no longer connect to the PCB at all.) It seems there is no trace there for me to solder to at those points, as no new solder will adhere to where the trigger joints once were. Is this second pad SOL? Thanks again for your help!

[Toodles]

Thanks for the help! While I don’t have a multimeter handy to test for a short, I am poring over my PCB to look for any solder spills. I’m not finding any, though. Is there another way I can zero in on which joint might be the issue? For the moment, I’ve completely removed all my joints (to make sure its not one wire touching both solder and a ground) but the pad still shuts off immediately after being plugged in.

Doing the test with the multimeter won’t help you locate the short, only tell you if that is the problem. There really isn’t any easy way to trace a short.

On another note, I picked up second MadCatz pad of this kind for a do-over, but I’ve accidentally removed the entire solder joint for the trigger pots (so they no longer connect to the PCB at all.) It seems there is no trace there for me to solder to at those points, as no new solder will adhere to where the trigger joints once were. Is this second pad SOL? Thanks again for your help!

Ripping the pads of when trying to remove the pot’s is common. On most you can follow the middle trace with your eyes and find a via or testpoint to solder to. Slagcoin’s diagrams show those if you have one of those pads. The high and low pads are connected to the high and low outside pots on the analog sticks and can be tapped there.

[skongi]

okay this is something i thought of the last week:
why are some pcbs common ground, and some are not?
if common or non-common would be cheaper than the other to produce, then most/every pad would be that i guess. but since thats not the case, why is it?
i hope this is the right thread for this, thought it would fit best in here.

[System_1]

Anyone have a schematic of how to wire up a new xbox 360 wired controller with a JLF? Can I daisy chain the grounds or is it advisable to connect each button’s ground to it’s respective xbox 360 button ground? Furthermore, how should I connect the JLF’s ground? Can I just connect that to one of the direction’s grounds on the PCB?

Finally, incase I get the older 360 wired controller, what can I do?

Thanks!

[MastererBetty]

I am using the rebranded Madcatz xbox360 pad http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/4827/madcatz2008sp4.jpg

I’m having a little trouble getting the points to fire off on the Windows Game Controllers program. “4” on the program which I believe is the Guide button is being activated constantly and I can’t get “5” which I think is Y to fire off.

If anyone can assist in alternate traces or any input that would be great.

[psychedelicbeat]

i just wanted to say THANKS FOR THIS THREAD! it made my life much better knowing i can hook up ps3 and 360 with one usb cord on my te sticks

[System_1]

Man…no search function on this thread is an absolute pain. I just went through 40 pages and didn’t find my answer yet…

[IceWilly]

I think search may be disabled currently (i can’t find it anywhere) this could be because of the server load with SFIV’s release.

Unfortunately, people always say to search… and with no search, the threads will keep popping up.

on to my question. I have a custom stick on the madcatz common ground 360 controller. The other day I went into my stick and wired up a USB B connector in place of the wire coming out of my joystick. So there are 5 wires coming out of the PCBA. Red/black/green/white and a 5th stranded wire that ran to the shield of the USB cable.

What do I do with this 5th wire? I tinned it and soldered it to the casing of the new USB B jack i put in place. This i thought is where the connection for the USB jack (pins 5 and 6) would connect to go to the shielding of the cable I attached. This caused the wire to spark when I plugged it into the Xbox, also there were errors and the controller would not function. I disconnected the 5th wire and its just hanging out in the breeze and the controller works correctly now with no errors after a few hours of playing, but I don’t feel 100% comfy with this solution.

Suggestions?

[System_1]

Edit:

I just picked up the late version of the Microsoft Wired xbox 360 controller. I have a Sanwa JLF coming as well, how do you guys recommend wiring that up? Should I just wire it up as per slagcoin?

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram1.jpg

Essentially I can connect the 4 directional pad wires directly, but what should I do for the ground? can I daisy chain it along with the button grounds?

Thanks for your help!

[System_1]

Ripping the pads of when trying to remove the pot’s is common. On most you can follow the middle trace with your eyes and find a via or testpoint to solder to. Slagcoin’s diagrams show those if you have one of those pads. The high and low pads are connected to the high and low outside pots on the analog sticks and can be tapped there.

Fantastic, thank you. For the high/low pot pads I’ve lost for RT, I’m using the main +5V and common ground lines, respectively, like I mentioned in the **other thread**. For my LT’s missing wiper pad, the trace led to a diode right after the via connecting it to the front-side of the pad. I soldered to the side of the diode closer to the via and it appears to be behaving (for now I just neutralized it with a 10kohm between +5V and the wiper, but finally I’m feeling this thing will work.) As always, thanks for your guidance!

[LuppyLuptonium]

I just want to check something. My wiring job on My Ps1 pad was hackish and kinda bad. To the point where I think something went wrong in the PCB and O can’t stop it from randomly pausing… So I’m thinking of ripping my stick’s guts out nd starting over, making it a straight 360/pc stick.

While i would love to have Playstation support and, through it, gamecube support, I play nearly all my Street fighting games on My PC via Gametap, and My console for SF4 and HD remix is the 360.

This, and the fact that SF4 comes out today brings me to a question. Common grounds are only needed to assist in making sticks multiconsole right?

[carnagemetal]

Hey guys,

im kinda new here…
ive been modding my HRAP2 for 360 and am really interested in trying to get this ‘Trigger button’ Mod working for my madcatz 360 4716 pad.

So i know its a 10K transistor but what is the exact diode i am looking for? (i live in the U.K. so the radio shack link is kinda void for me)

if anyone could gimme some help on finding/naming that component and any helpful tips that would be much appreciated.

dave