*The "padhacking" thread*

lupohki i would recheck your soldering on the button side (and probably on the board side as well). Make sure its connected.

Ayo, check to see if on your pc the buttons registering are all different with each button. You miught have screwed up maybe (or its something that i have absolutly no idea on)

yeah iā€™ve checked it reads fine on the computer but i have no clue as to why it wouldnā€™t work when i play on the xbox. thanks though

If you end up looking for a different pad, find one that says GameStop with the pointy handles like this. Both revisions of it are CG.

Thanks! ā€¦ I took the trigger signal wires from the pcb and touched it against the pcb ground and got a response. So I guess thereā€™s something wrong in the route through the button.

I finally got the buttons workingā€¦ but the stick seems to be firing off in differnt directionsā€¦ I think itā€™s because I couldn 't get the anolog sticks to detach they seem to be stuck going a certain direction and I canā€™t go in any other without it being overiddenā€¦

I have the white gamestop one with pointy handles, itā€™s revision C.

Toodles, on the back what kind of switch am I looking for.

here are some pics (terrible quality donā€™t know if they will help.

back
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/kohryusan/img054.jpg

front
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/kohryusan/img055.jpg

So Iā€™m throwing in my 360 MadCatz Retro Arcade PCB into a 360 Hori EX2 case. I made a mini diagram of the Guide Button/LED PCB, but Iā€™m running into some problems with it.

PIC: How I thought itā€™d worked.

The GU button works fine, but the LEDs are confusing the hell out of me. The one I have marked as ā€œGround?ā€ seems to be where the Active Signal needs to connect, and touching LEDs 1-4 with a ground turns on each respective LED.

PIC: How it actually works

So I donā€™t see any possible way of wiring up more than 1 LED unless I try soldering directly to the LED connections.

Anyone have a clue why it works like this?

So, why not run a wire from GND 1 to Jab, GND2 to Strong, GND3 to Short, and GND4 to Forward? The LEDs would light up when the buttons are pressed.

Hey Purrin, did your trigger mod end up working on the 360? Was hoping you would chime back in after that last post.

Kyle, Toodles, take a look at the post I made a few up and see if you can make anything out of the pictures.

They make my eyes hurt.

I literally lolā€™d looking at them (not mean-spirited) and very few things online make me laugh. :wonder: What type of camera are you using? Try retaking them in better lighting or using the macro feature if your camera has one.

OT: Toodles when did you get Premium? You should go look at the thread in the Premium forum where everyone is saying how much of a badass you are.

I was using my phone camera, what was I supposed to do =(, meanies.

The one TMO started? Yeah, I blushed a little.

heh. You never actually asked anything about the pad. Rough guess from the painful photos, itā€™s a newer version of the madcatz common ground pad. You should be good to go, but thatā€™s just a guess at this point. If it is the one I think, youā€™ll run into a problem with the triggers being backwards. Look for a thread zombie cpt started; I put up directions for flipping the triggers so itā€™d work like it should. Or you can just use the bumpers and ignore the triggers.

I didnā€™t even think about doing that, was trying to figure out how to make it work like it did originally. Might have to try that though, no reason to put good LEDs to waste. Any idea why itā€™s all backwards like that though?

Havenā€™t tested it on the 360 yet, I can tomorrow I suppose, but I donā€™t see why it wouldnā€™t since it worked fine on the PC. The thing Toodles was pointing out was that the PC doesnā€™t allow LT and RT to be used simultaneously even with a normal 360 Pad. The 360 Console does allow it though, so just be careful when using LT and RT for the main six buttons if you plan on using your stick for the PC. Personally Iā€™d aim for the TE button layout or just use RB and LB as most people do. Just have LT RT as the ā€˜extraā€™ ones.

A different Driver may fix the PC Trigger problem all together, I was using the official Microsoft ones. Iā€™ll test it on the 360 tomorrow and report back though, I would have this weekend but Iā€™ve been busy.

OT EDIT: For The Toodles Appreciation! Youā€™re a big help!

I thought everyehing was working so I hot glued all my wires togetherā€¦

Now whenever I hit R1, or strangly enough up and right the game randomly pauses. Happened in 2 games, tested in Naruto Ultimate inja 3, and then via a joybox MKA for Wii.

I have this PCB
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram5.jpg

The strange thing is the buttons that seem to trigger the random pauses donā€™t seem to e anywhere near the pause button, neither on the case or in the diagram of where I had to place the wires.

Anyone see this issue ever?

Why? Beats me. Electronically, thereā€™s no advantage one way or the other; both are equally valid.
But if Iā€™m understanding right, youā€™re trying to use the player LEDs on an EX2 case by wiring them up to the player LEDs on the madcatz retro stick you hacked and put inside it? Hmm. Aside from being impressed you could fit all that in there, if the wiring is backwards on the retro from the EX2 LEDs, you may be stuck. Please verify that they are backwards from eachother, and not just backwards from what you expect before proceeding.
One option would be to cut the traces so the common line to the EX2 LEDs isnā€™t connecting them all together, then solder together the four outgoing wires, the ones you labelled GND1-4. If they are backwards like you imply, have the common LED ground from the retro connected to the GND1-4 collection, and wire the other end of the retro LEDs to the side of the EX2 LEDs where you cut the traces.
Other ways are possible, but weā€™d have to get another chip in there.
This info here is untested and uncertain. If it breaks, you keep both pieces.

Please tell me you Googleā€™d that :slight_smile:

Hey guys, I bet you can help me out here.

I want to make an arcade stick with a wii classic controller pcb, but I donā€™t think I can figure out where I have to solder the wires to.
Can someone show me the exact soldering points on this picture?

Iā€™m totally new to the custom stick department so please donā€™t hurt me :frowning:

do you have a multimeter ? plug the controller into a wiimote (has to be on) put the black pin of the multimeter on anything that seems to be ground, and test with the red one pads, on there where you get a +something (I guess +3V something right ?)
then you got the right signal pad, just scrub the epoxy away to reveal copper and you good to go.

but I would assume this to be the right soldering point.
(sorry, quick and dirty made with paint xD)

as for the triggers, I donā€™t know, as it looks like itā€™s the same mechanism as the GC pad, and I didnā€™t get it yet.

(Viel Glck/Spass damit, alter ! :))

Iā€™m looking to make a triple pcb stick and I just want to make sure that I wonā€™t drop 25$ on the wrong controller.

This is the right one for what I want to do right?