Those problematic pads often have multiple commons, so the ‘common’ isn’t exactly very common. When we normally wire up sticks, we usually daisy chain one wire to every microswitch, our ‘common’ line. If we try to do that on pads that don’t use a single common line for everything, we end up connecting those multiple commons together, and the pad usually shits the bed.
Ground is a very specific term, unlike ‘common’. Ground is the “zero volt reference point”. Doesn’t explain much, does it? The power supplied by the console is usually written as +5v (+3.something for Playstation 1/2), and we know the current comes from that point. But just like everything else they taught about circuits in grade school, it has to come back somewhere, forming a circuit. The point where it comes back is the ground. Imagine the console was a big battery we plugged the stick into. Batteries have a + and - terminal. Having the wires go to the +5v pin of an Xbox is just like connecting it to the + terminal of a 5v battery. The ground pin is the same as the - terminal.
Since there is only ever one ground, by definition, then there is no such thing as ‘multiple common grounds’. If it is common ground, then the commons are all ground, and are thus all connected.
So, having a ‘common’ means there is one line going to all of the pads and directions. Having a ‘common ground’ means that the voltage on that common line is 0v. Its possible for the common line to be a higher voltage; these are usually reffered to as a common high; some models of SFAC stick do this.
Why would he label them if you can’t solder to them? :rolleyes:
I don’t see any room for improvement in that diagram, either. It shows the best place to solder for everything.
Hi, I want to confirm here that the ps2/ps3 mayflash pcb found usully in this kind of stick is common ground, but sadly wont get anywhere in a multi-pcb mod. (working fine alone but completely f*cking up with other pcbs)
using the L&R points on the sides of the controller are regular contacts like B,A,Y,X,Z,Start got me nowhere so far. so do I have to somehow hack the analog sliding thingies too ? (like hacking the 360 analog triggers ?)
thanks a bunch in advance.
I’m sure a lot of ppl here managed to do this, but I dind’t find and how to anywhere.
Probably nothing wrong with those pads as long as you can work without a diagram. If I were you I’d hit up your local pawn shops/flea markets for real Sony controllers. You’ll have better converter compatibility that way.
I’ve just been linked to this post from the Dual PCB topic, as I need to get my triggers working. However, after reading this I have a question:
I originally wanted to mod my HRAP2 so that it followed the default button config of a Hori EX2 stick (as I’m assuming Capcom fighters will use that layout as default).
On a EX2, MK and HK are assigned to RT and LT (instead of using the shoulder buttons for some bizarre reason). But after reading what Purrin has written, it seems like you can’t use both trigger buttons at the same time, correct?
So if hacking trigger buttons from a pad, and following the EX2 default layout, does this mean that Zangief’s lariat, Dhalsim’s teleport etc. will not work?
That is only for the madcatz retro arcade stick, the atari looking one. If you want an answer to those questions and are using one of those sticks, try out the lariats and stuff before hacking the pad.
So this doesn’t apply to the Mad Catz wired controller (2006/2007 models)? And if not, is there any reason why? Or just the nature of the Atari style controller?
Unfortunately, I’ve already hacked the pad and only have the triggers left to wire, so am not sure how I can try this out… I’ll see if I can reassemble the trigger mounts if they haven’t been damaged or thrown away. Aside from that, I’m at a complete loss unless someone can verify/debunk my original question.
On a PC, the Atari looking one uses a single axis to report the LT and RT. If niether is pressed, or both are pressed, the axis reports in the very middle. I don’t know if the 360 can tell the difference between ‘none pressed’ and ‘both pressed’, but the PC definitely cant. I have not seen this behavior on any other 360 pad I can think of.
When we normally wire up sticks, we usually daisy chain one wire to every microswitch, our ‘common’ line. If we try to do that on pads that don’t use a single common line for everything, we end up connecting those multiple commons together, and the pad usually shits the bed.
