Those are the exact ones I used. Bought them at my local Radioshack.
Edit: Toodles beat me to it!
Ah so it’s just the Madcatz Retro that has this problem? Kind of figured it would be most 360 PCB’s due to the nature of the triggers. This was my first time messing with a 360 PCB so I’ll edit my other post to specify it’s the Retro, Thanks again.
Hacking the dpad on the MS XB360 pad
I funking did it! Preparing the vias/through holes was straight forward and the soldering easy. Took a couple of minutes for each direction. The solder formed an ugly but firm bond to the inside of the via. I would definitely recommend this technique over scraping the carbon off and soldering to the tiny copper pad underneath.
Observe greatness. I’m so happy this worked. :woot: Now to make my aging Agetec look like something worth posting in the stick thread. (I intend to make a proper tutorial for hacking the wireless common ground 360 pad as i’ve had so much trouble with mine.) Bring on Feb 20th!
That will not work. You’re shorting all the common lines together. They need to stay separate, or the controller won’t work. This is why most people prefer working with common ground pads. If you’re dead-set on using that pad, you’re going to have to wire each common on the pad to its corresponding buttons in the stick separately.
-=The Jesster: Gatchaba Goose=-
I have a few questions, I’m about to do another dual pcb stick.
But I have two ps1 pcbs,
this one http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram7.jpg
I haphazardly cut off the analog portion a while back. This diagram says I need a resistor if I want to remove the analogs, but if I’m not using the analog’s do I still need to put a resistor on it.
And I have this one http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram1.jpg
I’m curious to why he’s cutting off the sides, Is it necessary?
I’m not that good at padhacking yet and I don’t want to take any unnecessary steps and fuck up, so input will be greatly appreciated.
Lastly
Toodles I believe it was you who told me the Tekken 5 pcb was common ground, but is it a single common?
I’m nearly done with the wiring of my stick; but could anyone attempt to help me in wiring the guide and back button?
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr154/ArugulaZ/madcatzconnections.png
It says I have to use an AND Gate; I looked it up on google and I’m a bit lost.
If you aren’t using using the triggers, try this guide, I wired one of those.
Guide Is GU and back is BA, the blue circles near them are the signals you need to wire to.
Hope that helps.
yeah, I looked and that and tried it; but neither worked, considering i’m using the triggers, so I assume I need to use an AND gate. lost from there.
noob help me
Picked up a Joytech Neo SE Advanced for AUD$25 (USD$16) yesterday - looks like a revision since there’s a chip missing from the other pics I’ve seen etc. Does it look like there’s a common ground? Can anybody help me out with the solder points?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/pedantics/forum%20pics/P1000515.jpg?t=1233885843
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/pedantics/forum%20pics/P1000513.jpg?t=1233886055
is it possible to wire an old version of xbox 360 wired to a cthulhu board then wire the cthulhu board to the joystick and buttons?
That’s about as far from CG as you can get. No, you can’t do any dual pcb mods with that.
Wow there’s so many conflicting stories about these joytech pads!
thx for the pic Purrin!
pedantics: Did you buy that in Australia? If so where did you get it for that price ?
Domayne at Liverpool. They had a shit load of them too, but you need to ask for the discount as they’re marked at $49.95.
Anyone have an answer to the questions I posted above, I’m eager to know, I want to get started working on this.
I snipped the analogs as well on my first pad. Was just thinking “Don’t need these, don’t need that.” The pad still worked but I didn’t end up using it with my stick. I’m not sure if there’s any adverse affect from removing them. I just leave everything intact now except the rumble motors. Everyone says to remove those.
I can answer the second one a little more confidently. You definitely don’t need to physically cut up the PCB. I’m guessing he’s trying to illustrate that it can operate normally without those edges. Maybe he wanted to cram it into a project box. Not too sure…
Sorry haha, I realize I worded the first question poorly.
The issue that raised my third question, taken from slag coin’s site-
“Multiple commons is not so much a problem for project boxes; they can be sorted decently with some planning. But for multiple internal PCBs, this can make the PCB with the multiple commons malfunction. Imagine one PCB has a single ground while the other has two commons; the single ground and one of the multiple commons are sorted to their various switches, which is not yet a problem; but then the same ground is sorted with the second common to the other switches; because all the wires from the single-ground PCB are linked (either with one another or through the PCB structure), and because the first common on the two-common PCB touches the single ground, the first common will get linked to the second common causing the commons to combine and create problems.”
Also This PCB, seems to have multiple common’s http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram4.jpg
Please explain and elaborate, I’m not trying to disrespect you, I’m just trying to learn.
Also thanks again Kyle and Toodles for the help.
Help with SNAFU’d MadCatz pad
Guys, I have one of these MadCatz 4716 (late version), and I accidentally ripped off the PCB traces for X & Y 
Anyway, I checked on the back and found that I can solder to a spot to get Y back, but can’t find anywhere for X.
Anyone know if I can still rescue the X button?
You can try soldering into the little hole that runs through the board for X “via”
