This thread is a pretty good read. A friend of mine wants me to build a stick for him. Only thing is, he grew up in the states, so he’s used to the P360. A Flash or Ascii won’t do it for him. I know the Wico version is all but impossible to find these days, and I know the rep Happ’s version got was probably well deserved. But has anyone bothered trying one lately? I asked Chad at LizardLick and he said he hasn’t seen problems or returns on them in a year or so. This could be a sign they got some things fixed or that nobody has bought one in a year, depending on how you spin it. Just wanted to get an idea before chucking $40 down the drain. Worst case scenario, it craps out and I replace it with a Competition…
spenzalii, Chad over at LizardLick’s got it pretty much down. The newer Happ Perfect 360s are perfectly fine in terms of functionality. Well, at least nowadays they are. A few years ago when Happ was making the switch to their factories in China, the quality of their Perfect 360s was absolute crap, or at least that’s what people say. They had issues with pivots, corners not registering, the gate not being perfectly circular, etc. Nowadays though, the Perfect 360s from Happ are pretty solid. People who have played on the WICO Perfect 360s say “they’re just not the same” but in terms of functionality, the newer Happ Perfect 360s are absolutely solid now. They’re a great investment for $40.00 especially if your friend’s a fan of American parts. You’d ideally put a WICO Perfect 360 in there, but hey, in all seriousness, the newer Happ Perfect 360s compared to the WICO Perfect 360s are like the ASCII Answer and Sanwa FLASH 1. One might be a clone of the original, but it still works pretty damn well. :tup:
just tossing this out there for you guys to fight over.
http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b108647731
however, I am sure meus is already bidding on it.
Haha holy crap, look at the smoke damage on that Capcom stick. Still, an amazing deal to whoever wins that.
hey… seeing how this stick looks stubby, is it really a short shaft?
hmmm…if im not mistaken, looks like i could do some major damage with this tool.:hitit:
Thanks for the heads up. I feel a little more confident putting one together for him. Now to finish this first project and start on his.
Ok, guys - here’s an idea I’ve been toying around with and I thought I’d bounce it off everyone: Let’s say I want to experience an optical joystick, but I’m not made of money and/or I’m not meus and know the strange, frightening ways of bidding on stuff in languages I can’t read. So the P360 is the easiest to come across as well as the cheapest. (I’m willing to give the happ ones a shot.)
Trouble is… I need it to be a balltop.
I just can’t get the hang of the bat-tops for the life of me. Sure, I can use them, I just don’t prefer them 95% of the time. So I was wondering: can a P360 be modded to use a jap-style shaft and balltop? I think I’ve seen this done but it was a custom job.
I found this: http://rototron.info/BallTopP360.aspx <— but it’s pretty old, and it’s not for a fighting game, it’s for Ms. Pac-Man…
Just throwing ideas out there. Let me know if anything comes to mind.
IIRC, Wico made balltop shafts, and they definitely could be swapped into Wico p360’s. I would bet they can be swapped into current p360’s just fine.
However, you’d still have the same 50 pound spring underneath making you put your shoulder into moving the stick.
I almost forgot about that. Can’t the spring be swapped with one from an iL or something, or does the P360 prohibit that somehow?
decreasing the ascii optical engage distance
i’ve been thoroughly enjoying my ascii optical since i intsalled it. however, befoer i installed it, i was using a jlf and i had modded it by putting pieces of paper inside the switches to decrease the engage distance. how would i do this on the optical? if what i’m understanding is correct, the optical works by having 4 lasers pointing at hte actuator and when you move the stick, as certain lasers become “unblocked” by the actuator, it triggers directions. if this is true, decreasing the engage distance would mean i would have to sand DOWN the actuator to make it thinner, and putting tape on the actuator would actually increase the engage distance. can anyone help me out with this?
You are correct, you would have to sand down the actuator, but I don’t think anyone’s done that yet.
XMetal, brighenne’s got the correct idea. Just wrap the sandpaper around the actuator and rotate the actuator around for a while. It’s a bit time consuming but it will definitely decrease the engage distance. :tup:
hey ketchy or whoever that can help,
where do u buy the voltage regulator from?
i’ve bought the one from sparkfun.com from a link here but didnt get it to work despite changing the resistors to a 100k one.
thanks for the replies, guys. i will try that
Hmmm I think you’re refering to the one that Ikagi has been linking…you aren’t having any luck w/ that one? hmm
I got mine from Toodles, that he built himself, I don’t know if he takes requests or anything, you could try him.
I don’t know where else to get a reliable one :[ maybe Ikagi can shed some light on it.
nope, no luck with that one and getting pretty fed up so far. all i want to do is get my ascii optical working on my mc console madcatz te. :crybaby:
worst comes to worst, i’ll just have to move my optical stick to my ps2 hrap and add in an usb cable to power it up. however, i dont want to since i <3 my TE stick too much and 2 cords coming from one stick looks a bit unsightly.
Anybody out there have a flash and a scanner? I’d much appreciate a high res scan of the dust disk/washer.
And ketchy kech, toodles built your voltage regulator, not just bought one right? Did he ever post up a schematic of how to do it? I’d be down to build my own if I could.
Are you talking about the vpack regulator?
Granted, I haven’t used one myself, but there shouldn’t be any modification to is needed except soldering a jumper wire across J1. Can you point out to me where you got the info for trying to swap resistors?
Toodles, the info’s in the datasheet actually, specifically under the section titled “How to change the output voltage.” They mention you’ve got to swap in a 100K resistor in RF2 if you want +5V output.
But why would you need to change the resistor on the board? It’s already a 100k ohm, according to both the datasheet (entry for RF2, bottom of first page) and the picture (RF2 label is ‘1003’, 100 * 10^3 = 100k)