I’ll get definitive numbers when I get in my Sanwa FLASH 1, rest assured there. Who knows, I may be wrong on all this! :lol:
It’d be great if I were wrong so that I could use my Sanwa FLASH 1 for SHMUPs like Digital- suggested. :lovin:
Optical joysticks were created under the assumption you’re using a common ground PCB, but you don’t HAVE to have a common ground PCB in order to get one running. With enough know-how, you can definitely get one running on a non-common ground PCB. You just have to get something like one of Toodles’ 360^2 helper boards which convert non-common ground signals into common ground ones.
has anyone changed the buttons on this stick to sanwa buttons?
the sanwa 30mm buttons are too wide to fit in the button holes. and 24mm might be too small.
does anyone know what size button would fit this stick?
i just really dont want to end up widening all six holes, seems like way too much trouble.
or do you think i can continue to use the current yellow plastic buttons, but change the black square switch on the inside of the button.
those black square switches are all the same size right?
Honestly, you’d probably be better off putting in the work to grind down the holes and putting in genuine Sanwa buttons in there. They last longer and definitely don’t feel as cheap. Besides, it’s hard to get your hands on genuine Sanwa button microswitches unless you order from AkihabaraShop, which although great for moderate orders involving say a set of buttons and a joystick, would definitely not be worth it to pay for shipping from Japan for 6 lousy switches. The Sanwa switches do work though if you really just want to swap the switches. Either way, you have to desolder the PCB from the buttons, so it’ll be a similar amount of work either way.
hmm, this is quite a predicament. theres no easy way out of this. theres like 3 ways to do this and i’ve done all 3 ways before.
widening the holes.
it is a bit of work and you’ll prolly need some special tool to make the holes even. i did this for the tekken 5 hori stick and i forgot what i used, but i think it was some dremel attachment.
replacing the microswitches with sanwa ones.
replacing the microswitches at the bottom doesn’t affect anything. i’ve tried that. in fact, its prolly the same microswitches sanwa uses, if not close enough. i’ve swapped the stock ascii microswitches with sanwa microswitches and vice versa. the ascii buttons will still feel like ascii buttons and sanwa buttons with ascii microswitches will still feel like sanwa buttons.
korean crown buttons.
its 28mm and will fit perfectly. however i’m not a big fan of these buttons. i think you’re better off with stock buttons, but everyone will have different preference.
great! i’ll be switching the black micro switches inside the button…this means i can choose any size/color sanwa button and just use the black box on the inside.
ya, i’ve heard of those ‘korean’ buttons…never seen them before and dont know what they’re called.
im changing the buttons mainly cause it’s broken(not cause it’s sticky or mushy), as in, i hope it’s each individual microswitch is dead, which will make it easier to fix. i dont really mind how the stock buttons feel. (if they stick, nothing WD-40 wont fix)
the first time i laid hands on this brand new was 1999-2000, it felt so weird cause there was no clicking in the stick, it felt so smooth, the shaft is so short(this short shaft is one of the best parts of this stick), and wasnt a square and felt like a circle with bumps around it, (i didnt know there were octagonal gates back then/and i didnt know i had just experienced nearly the best stick in the world)
i can actually press downwards and not have it slip to either side. or i can finally move from crouch block to stand block quick enough with out ending up jumping backwards while in block strings and end up getting comboed.(something really important in third strike imo)
i used it from 10pm-8am 2-3days a week on dreamcast back then playing friends. stopped using it cause the jab went out, and ps2 version came out.
ever since it broke i have never came across any stick that was better or near to its equivalent.
the first time i touched an ‘arcade pro’… “hated it!!”, and they’re all the same to me, any ‘tekken’ stick, any sfiv-whateverstick(s). CLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICK is louder than the game coming from the speakers.
might it be a marketing scheme what has been done to rub out the optical stick in the market place. this product is just too good. it doesnt break often enough, which means it will make a lot less money in the long run. other option to make the stick work…put a total of 4 microswitches around it(4 chances for at least 1 to break), click them until their life expectancy, find money to replace, cha-ching/microswitch breakcha-ching/microswitch breakcha-ching/microswitch break
i’ve known about that, but want to avoid using it if i can. alot of the optics i worked with had a fairly large voltage window, mostly it was the hex inverters that got pissy without the right voltage.
Great work, man! What photo detector are you using? I may have a solution for your voltage woes if I could take a look at the data sheet for the photo detectors.
-ud
Anyone knows how much one of theses weighs? Since the SRK Trading Outlet requires prices with shipping, I want to calculate how much it would cost to ship one via EMS or Airmail from Japan but I don’t have a scale to weigh it. Or maybe someone can tell me how much the joystick itself weighs and I can probably just part them out for those that want to save on shipping. :woot:
thats good to hear. i think the stock buttons are okay. certainly better than any stock hori buttons (not including the namco ones) and even better than some seimitsu buttons. don’t use wd-40. it eats up the plastic.
these are the korean buttons u want to replace with
Ketchy Kech, I said this to you already, but your stick is insanely awesome. godspu did some incredible work on not just the case job, but especially the wiring. Hot damn, that is a clean solder job if I do say so myself! :lol:
Out of curiosity, are you running a +5V voltage converter in that stick or are you just running the Sanwa FLASH 1 bareback without a voltage regulator? I’m curious to see how godspu wired it all up since many people have had troubles incorporating the voltage regulator.
Thanks man! I basically sleep w/ the thing, haha!!
I defiantly use a regulator (Toodles made it for meh when he sold me the flash) here’s a picture of the MC Cthulhu under the hacked pad…the voltage regulator is on the far right…brownish: very hard to see:
Wow, I guess I didn’t see this thread last month. Time to subscribe, and I’ll add the Toodles Flash Thread into my sig. Great work as always Ikagi-Chan
That’s right, I forgot that Toodles sent you one of his own voltage regulators when he shipped you that Sanwa FLASH 1. I’m glad to hear that godspu managed to wire it up just fine. I SO wish I could take a gander at his padhacking though; he definitely hacked the triggers on that Mad Catz PCB, but even considering the cramped space underneath, I really want to know how he managed to fit it all in. Oh well, a magician like him is better off leaving his secrets secret, right? :lol:
Good stuff though Ketchy! I’m glad you’re enjoying your optical experience! :tup:
By the way, ever planning on putting a shaft cover on that thing? That JLF shaft looks pretty naked! :wasted:
Thanks for the compliment Truckasaurus! And hoorah for the Toodles FLASH 1 clone movement! Let’s spread the word people! :bgrin:
haha sorry, thats the best picture I could take, everything is so tightly fit that I would have to take it apart and knowing myself never put it back just as right
Yeah waiting on an acrylic white shaft cover, he’s going to make me =]
