@“Jasen Hicks” what the function is on “J2”? thanks
Please check Brook’s release notes on their website: www.brookaccessory.com
It is now used for HITBOX SOCD mode. If you don’t have a HITBOX panel on your TE2+ from me… it doesn’t affect you.
So there is no more touchpad click support at all due to this change from Brook? Touch pad click is used reset positions in training mode for Tekken and a nifty shortcut to reset training position in SFV that I use very often.
Click works still. That’s a different connection all together.
Sorry I am new at this. For the TE2+ the usb wires there is no yellow. Instead there are two black wires. I’ve tried swapping both in the terminals but I am not getting power.
EDIT: Nevermind got it to power on. It was something unrelated to the USB wiring.
Black and Yellow are both GND in the TE2+
Anywhere a guy can still purchase a TE2+ EZ Mod @“Jasen Hicks” ? I’ve looked at Arcade Shock and PAS, but no luck. I’ve got a UFB, so looking for one with or without the UFB, starting to get hard to get the Jasen’s Customs goods !
ArcadeShock is the only vendor with the TE2+ EZ MOD; I believe they have chosen to sell it as a package with the UFB only. I would recommend contacting them directly via their website.
Jasen
Just as you said that Jasen, they just got a new shipment in for them. I ordered the set. Quick question. The touchpad ribbon that comes with the TE2+, would you know the name of that kind of ribbon, I need to get a replacement.
Thanks guys !
Its an FFC 7 pin.
Its an FFC 7 pin.
Now I can wire up my touch pad
Asked already in the Q&A general thread, but maybe I have more chance to get a response here:
I’ve recently received as a present a Brook Universal Fightboard and I haven’t installed yet.
Since I’m thinking to use it with my PS4 TE2 Fightstick, I’ve ordered from Paradise Arcade Shop an EZ Mod.
The UFB model I own doesn’t feature headers, as can be seen in the following picture:
Now I’m planning to buy separately and to solder some headers in order to make my Board like the next one:
Can you please suggest me wich type of headers and how many I will need? And where to buy as well?
Thank you very much in advice for your attention.
The EZ MOD Kit comes with them.
First off, thanks for such an outstandingly helpful product! I’m refurbishing/resurrecting a PS4 TE2+ that had a bum PCB, and I couldn’t have done it without the EZ Mod.
Anyhoo… I’ve gotten the EZ Mod and Brook UFB installed in my case, and all the appropriate LEDs are lit/flashing on the circuit boards, and I’m pretty sure everything is hooked up in the appropriate fashion between them. When I plug the USB cable into my PS4, I get the keen Knight Rider effect on the left bank of LEDs, and the Player LEDs cycle through their paces as expected. The stick gets recognized as player 1, the PS button does what it should, the joystick registers in all 8 directions, and 1P through 4K all register without a hitch.
However, the Player LEDs go dark after that opening cycle, and don’t light up as described on the opening page of this thread.
Also, the LS-DP-RS selector seems to be permanently set to DP, which isn’t all that big of a deal, since, y’know, the stick isn’t analog. Just wanted to check and see if that’s normal.
I’ve linked to a couple of pics showing my boards and the connections made to them. Is there anything that stands out here as incorrect? I’d hate to think that there’s something wrong with either of my boards right out of the box(es).
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_0pQTCCky8NdXpncGVyQ0ZISnc
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_0pQTCCky8NWWVicHpnUHJnek0
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_0pQTCCky8NQWtNNHIzSy1TeDg
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_0pQTCCky8NcXpxSVRYSUlicVk
Sorry for “noob’ing it up” so badly, but this is the first time I’ve tried to get in deep with the brains of a controller. Thanks for all the useful info in all the previous pages of this thread. WIthout it, I’d still be eyeballing another stick instead of tinkering with this one.
I just installed ez mod + brooks combo and when I plug my controller in it makes the USB connection sound on my computer, and then immediately makes the USB disconnect sound. The controller appears to still be working, is this how it is supposed to work?
Just received the EZ Mod + Book UFB set for my TE2+ from ArcadeShock!
Here’s what I’ve got:
Since it will be my very first installation on an Arcade Stick, I’d like to ask: is there something I will need a solder for? Or I only need to connect the cables as shown in the video-tutorials for the TE2?
Please forgive me for my ignorance, I’m a newbie as I said before.
The “EZ” part denotes a lack of a need to solder. Just watch the video(s) and connect the cables to their appropriate connectors.
hi everyone i put TE2 EZ MOD (on my TE2 xbox one Ki) With UFB brook everything works Exept Left & Right on my stick someone know why?
the problem is not from UFB (i tested)
thanks everyone in advance
https://img4.hostingpics.net/thumbs/mini_820221image11.jpg
https://img4.hostingpics.net/thumbs/mini_846534image2.jpg
I just installed ez mod + brooks combo and when I plug my controller in it makes the USB connection sound on my computer, and then immediately makes the USB disconnect sound. The controller appears to still be working, is this how it is supposed to work?
That is linking up, disconnecting, and reconnecting as an XBOX ONE controller. Normal.
First off, thanks for such an outstandingly helpful product! I’m refurbishing/resurrecting a PS4 TE2+ that had a bum PCB, and I couldn’t have done it without the EZ Mod.
Anyhoo… I’ve gotten the EZ Mod and Brook UFB installed in my case, and all the appropriate LEDs are lit/flashing on the circuit boards, and I’m pretty sure everything is hooked up in the appropriate fashion between them. When I plug the USB cable into my PS4, I get the keen Knight Rider effect on the left bank of LEDs, and the Player LEDs cycle through their paces as expected. The stick gets recognized as player 1, the PS button does what it should, the joystick registers in all 8 directions, and 1P through 4K all register without a hitch.
However, the Player LEDs go dark after that opening cycle, and don’t light up as described on the opening page of this thread.
Also, the LS-DP-RS selector seems to be permanently set to DP, which isn’t all that big of a deal, since, y’know, the stick isn’t analog. Just wanted to check and see if that’s normal.
I’ve linked to a couple of pics showing my boards and the connections made to them. Is there anything that stands out here as incorrect? I’d hate to think that there’s something wrong with either of my boards right out of the box(es).
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_0pQTCCky8NdXpncGVyQ0ZISnc
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_0pQTCCky8NWWVicHpnUHJnek0
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_0pQTCCky8NQWtNNHIzSy1TeDg
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_0pQTCCky8NcXpxSVRYSUlicVk
Sorry for “noob’ing it up” so badly, but this is the first time I’ve tried to get in deep with the brains of a controller. Thanks for all the useful info in all the previous pages of this thread. WIthout it, I’d still be eyeballing another stick instead of tinkering with this one.
If everything works as you describe, nothing is improperly hooked up. That’s good!
I am unsure why the Player LEDs go dark after the Knight Rider Effect. That tells me that everything from the processor of the EZ MOD to the aux board is working fine. Something between the UFB and the EZ MOD seems to be awry. Without a multi-meter on it, I can’t exactly tell you what’s going on. Can you hook it to a PC and let me know what it does? I think that will light them all up white, if I recall correctly.
As for the DP/LS/RS, did you press the selector switch? Is the light switching at all? Sometimes those goofy surface mount dome switches get pressed like 4 times during a single press. Its called bouncing. We try and debounce that signal in code, but sometimes it bounces more than it should.