I know this is kinda an old board but I was wondering if it was possible to mod the artwork on a Qanba Q2 Standard Joystick (The one with the straight button layout). I haven’t found a template anywhere so I’m not sure if it’s doable or not.
The stick in my Q2 Glow has been steadily deteriorating over the last couple of months. It initially started with a creaking sound when moving around the deadzone, developed into more of a grinding feel and has now worsened to the point where the directions have different levels of resistance before it touches the switches. The up direction in particular even sticks a bit on the way if I move it without enough force, while down is the loosest.
I’m fairly confident I can swap the PCB with the microswitches and LEDs striaght into a JLF and drop that in, it should solve the problem as it’s somewhere in the lever.
Just a heads up really, the stick was great at first but don’t be surprised if you need to swap in some higher quality parts (not very far) down the line.
Might just need to lube that stick up with some shin etsu grease.
Paradisearcadeshop.com has Molykote and they send it in syringes which makes it very easy to both store and apply.
Yeah that’s not a bad idea, I’ll probably give that a go.
It’s also a nice excuse to buy more stuff to make up for the cost of shipping to England…
You can get a tube of Shin Etsu from Arcade World UK - although how that measures up cost-wise I’m not sure…
EDIT: Cheaper to get the smaller tube from Paradise…
Edit: This should of been in the question and, now, the Kaimana thread. Sorry!
Hi I have a question: I am using my Qanba Q4RAF on PC and it seems the Select, Mode and Turbo button are mapped to the same button. In the windows testing menu it registers me pressing button 7 no matter which one of the 3 i press. That wouldnt be so bad BUT each one also toggles the turbo on/off AND (I assume) change the joystick to analog or digital mode. So basically in emulators I can not use the select button.
Is this normal behavior or is my pcb broken? It was like this the day I bought about 5 months ago, I thought it was a software /driver issue but now I start to wonder if it is hardware related.
Also the Home button seems not mapped to any pc button at all.
I have no direct means to test it on xbox360/ps3
Hey guys.
I have a Q2 that I’m about to replace the cable in, but does anybody have a pinout of the shroud on the pcb? I have some headers coming in and I want to make sure I’m getting the wires in the right spots.
Thanks in advance
Is there any way to rewire a Qanba Q4RAF so that the Start/Select buttons are up top like an Eightarc? If so, how?
Hi there guys. I’m having a little bit of trouble with my Q4 raf. The lower left diagonal isn’t functioning properly, when I try to low block I end up walking back a lot of the time, and inputs are greatly interfered with (hadokens literally become shoryukens, for example) . Occasionally, the bottom right will also act up too. Now this is only a recent problem, I’ve had the stick for some time and it has served me excellently. I reckoned it might be an issue with the microswitches, a friend of mine says it might be the pcb. Rather than opening it up and further agitating the situation myself, I figured I’d ask here first. Any observations and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Seriously.
I have the Qanba q4raf and I’m looking for parts. Can anyone please help me find them? I need a replacement for the headset jack since mine no longer works, screws, and the rubber stoppers on the bottom of the stick. Thanks
Sounds like a JLF micro switch is getting worn out. You can replace the switch in question, or you can buy a new drop in JLF pcb for about $12. I’d take the latter route if you’ve had it for a while, the other switches will probably be close behind.
My old Q4RAF has had an issue with disconnecting from PS3’s at tournaments. Everything will be going fine and then the lights at the top will start flashing and I’m booted. I haven’t been able to replicate this at home, which leads people I’ve talked to to believe that it is connected to playing on tournament setups that are sharing power outlets with too many devices.
Does anyone have an approach for remedying this issue on my end? I’m honestly a little concerned about relying on this stick at tournaments that are paranoid about Cronus use for my 360 stick.
Most likely an issue with either the USB wire or the board itself. Certain models of Qanbas tend to have pretty shoddy PCBs that fry after about 1.5+ years. I would investigate the USB wire first.
So, anyone with a qanba q4raf able to test their stick on a PC for me and tell me what the SELECT, MODE and TURBO do for them? Would be very appreciated 
Out of those three, only Select registers as a button (button 7) in the Windows USB Game Controllers display, and I’ve never had a problem of my Select button activating turbo on me. Home is also not mapped to a button here either.
Where can I buy Qanba Q4 Q4RAF in Japan ?
Thanks.
On my PC the mode turbo and home buttons don’t register as buttons that can be used for me. They work as they would on the ps3 or xbox all except the home button which isn’t used at all.