The Official Post your Arcade Cabinet Thread!

[Jayducky]

Pales in comparison to some of the setups here, but she’s mah baby! Trying to hook up that full AE artwork for it but I think they are backed up on emails right now

btw, gotta give shouts out to Ken @ thegameroom for hooking me up with this bad boy at a great price. Didn’t have any second player controls and he hooked that all up also put in the sega 001 jamma harness. He made sure it can play pretty much anything, cps2, naomi, any jvs system (i’d still need the capcom i/o board), and all he charged me for was the buttons.

Right now this room is the arcade, gym, and office in that order Trying to move to a bigger place currently so I can hook up a REAL arcade room and get some more cabs in there like some of you guys’ sick setups.

Hey manman, That Blstcity looks great! I am currently talking to ken at the gameroom and I am trying to get myself a Blastcity. I would love to hear about your experience in dealing with the gameroom if you have time.

[Bernie]

Been meaning to post up an update for this setup. Now including spectator mode:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/wej4life/Astro%20City%20H2H/IMG_1457.jpg

It plays consoles too:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/wej4life/Astro%20City%20H2H/IMG_1464.jpg

1p side (currently displaying VF Kids sheet from a Saturn HSS-0130, in need of some real arcade instruction sheets):

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/wej4life/Astro%20City%20H2H/IMG_1460.jpg

2p side - monitor image isn’t as dark as it looks here, but isn’t as bright as I’d like it regardless:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/wej4life/Astro%20City%20H2H/IMG_1462.jpg

I think I should petition to hold SBO quals at my place next year…

[emphatic]

Next time, take photos of your screens without the flash.

[Bernie]

Yeah. I tried without flash first and I think it came out pretty poorly for whatever reason. I’m no pro photographer by any means nor do I have the best equipment for this. I probably should have tried to keep the flash away from the screen a little better. I’m not really happy with the results either. Anyway, I have a buddy that is much better at this than I am and hopefully they can help me out next time I make changes so the photos come out better.

Doesn’t change the fact that the actual setup itself is amazing in practice and is pretty much what all my guests play on for most of the night when they come over for games. Hopefully soon I’ll have a current gen equivalent next to these cabs complete with LCDs and PS3/360.

[Jolly_Chef]

I love lurking in this thread so much… I’m so jealous of all of these candy cabs and viewlix clones! I recently came up on a big blue Q sound cab that I’m modding to run MAME and my xbox360. hopefully taking care of a pad hack and installing a new control panel within the next few days. I’ll post up some pictures once I get a little farther along!

[Rugdoctor]

2p side - monitor image isn’t as dark as it looks here, but isn’t as bright as I’d like it regardless:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a399/wej4life/Astro%20City%20H2H/IMG_1462.jpg

…

So I presume you messed with the monitor settings at the rear of the monitor as well as the front to up the brightness and contrast?

[ELECTROPR1NZ]

Not sure if this is the right place to ask but is there an thread that has like tutorials how to build one/templates for one? Also how much would I be probably investing into the cab itself without buttons,tv etc.

EDIT : Aiming to put a ps3/360 in there.

[n_nlemon]

Yeah. I tried without flash first and I think it came out pretty poorly for whatever reason. I’m no pro photographer by any means nor do I have the best equipment for this. I probably should have tried to keep the flash away from the screen a little better. I’m not really happy with the results either.

hold a piece of white paper in front of the flash to redirect it to the ceiling so it doesn’t hit the screen directly. set shutter speed to <1/15 of a second if you can.
works for me…

[ibeatu]

Been meaning to post up an update for this setup. Now including spectator mode:

It plays consoles too:

1p side (currently displaying VF Kids sheet from a Saturn HSS-0130, in need of some real arcade instruction sheets):

2p side - monitor image isn’t as dark as it looks here, but isn’t as bright as I’d like it regardless:

I think I should petition to hold SBO quals at my place next year…

pimp set up how is it running the tv for spectator mode? and what converter are you using to run both cabs versus style?

[Bernie]

Thanks for the kind comments everyone.This setup took plenty of time, love, and money in order to get into the shape that it’s in now. Even so, I keep finding plenty of little things I still want to improve on.

So I presume you messed with the monitor settings at the rear of the monitor as well as the front to up the brightness and contrast?

The front side, definitely but with little success. I would like to mess with the rear side controls if I could find them. I can get into the backside of the cab but I couldn’t find the controls there. Interestingly, when the P2 cab operates by itself without the 2-cab link cable, the image is very bright and colorful. I’m sure it has something to do with the cable itself, but I’m not sure where to look for the culprit.

Any ideas where the settings for this monitor would be from the rear side?

hold a piece of white paper in front of the flash to redirect it to the ceiling so it doesn’t hit the screen directly. set shutter speed to <1/15 of a second if you can.
works for me…

Thanks for the tip. I’ll try this out next time I take photos.

pimp set up how is it running the tv for spectator mode? and what converter are you using to run both cabs versus style?

It’s an old flatscreen VGA monitor, not a TV. The video output from the P1 cab is split into this hereand fed into the monitor. The versus style link I’m using is here. There are cheaper solutions for the link cable available, but I didn’t want to deal with hacking up a JAMMA loom in order to build one.

[Rugdoctor]

Interestingly, when the P2 cab operates by itself without the 2-cab link cable, the image is very bright and colorful. I’m sure it has something to do with the cable itself, but I’m not sure where to look for the culprit.

I think its the cable from the sound of things, usually there should be a secondary brightness control on the chassis or on the neckboard. But I will definitely check out the cable. Try swapping the cable to the 1P side to see whether you can replicate the darkness issue.

[Tetsuosan]

Bernie if you look in the back of the cab you’ll notice an access panel that’s parallel to the monitor take the two screws out and pull the panel off. What you’ll notice is you’ll have access to the chassis and the neckboard as well. With a flashlight try and find some markings for brightness. It might be on the chassis or it might be on the neckboard. If you’re still in doubt go and look for markings on the chassis to determine which one you might have and try to look up the schematics for it. I have a nanao ms829 and mine is actually on the flyback. Try and trace the large cable that connects the tube to the chassis . When you locate it on the chassis you’ll find two plastic type screws one is the brightness and the other is the focus. Mess with them until you find the right one. Just a word of warning DO NOT TOUCH THE FLYBACK WIRE!!! You will get electrocuted with 60k volts. Sorry for the long post writing on my phone lol

[Rampage]

Just a word of warning DO NOT TOUCH THE FLYBACK WIRE!!! You will get electrocuted with 60k volts.

I almost feel as though you should both preface and end your post with that advice :lol:

Good advice though.

[Bernie]

Bernie if you look in the back of the cab you’ll notice an access panel that’s parallel to the monitor take the two screws out and pull the panel off. What you’ll notice is you’ll have access to the chassis and the neckboard as well. With a flashlight try and find some markings for brightness. It might be on the chassis or it might be on the neckboard. If you’re still in doubt go and look for markings on the chassis to determine which one you might have and try to look up the schematics for it. I have a nanao ms829 and mine is actually on the flyback. Try and trace the large cable that connects the tube to the chassis . When you locate it on the chassis you’ll find two plastic type screws one is the brightness and the other is the focus. Mess with them until you find the right one. Just a word of warning DO NOT TOUCH THE FLYBACK WIRE!!! You will get electrocuted with 60k volts. Sorry for the long post writing on my phone lol

Thanks for the tip! I’ll check it out whenever I’m home tonight. I’m hoping you didn’t have to experience the electrocution first hand?

[kali_pimpin]

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr310/josefhate/photo-8.jpg

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr310/josefhate/photo-17.jpg

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr310/josefhate/photo-16.jpg

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr310/josefhate/photo-15.jpg

thinking bout selling this to get a v4
still have not finished the art im running mame on windows,xbox360,ps3 and dreamcast,ps1/2,nes,snes via emulation.

[ibeatu]

thinking bout selling this to get a v4
still have not finished the art im running mame on windows,xbox360,ps3 and dreamcast,ps1/2,nes,snes via emulation.

dam that looks sick thats a kraylix correct? i would copped that but ur not near me lol

[Rugdoctor]

Been busy…very busy

[media=youtube]kricHX_Q_L0[/media]

[

Will go into details in the blog about how everything is hooked up! If anyone is interested…

[Kyle]

More (and bigger!) pictures of the tate Naomi cab please!

[wiseless]

. Just a word of warning DO NOT TOUCH THE FLYBACK WIRE!!! You will get electrocuted with 60k volts.

This is why I’m scared to shit about messing with CRTs…

[mistahsnart]

This is why I’m scared to shit about messing with CRTs…

I got zarked by one back when I was an arcade tech in the 90s. I do not recommend it.