So since the PS1/PS2 cable works, and USB works, we can conclude that there’s no problems with your wiring between the MCC and to the Neutrik. That’s good.
Which leaves essentially technical 2 possibilities:
The SNES/NES cables are bad (either they weren’t working to begin with, or you crimped them wrong); but you’ve confirmed that this part is fine via continuity testing.
Something’s up with the MCC for SNES/NES (which is essentially the same thing).
Maybe as a first step just try re-flashing the firmware that you already have? Before trying to flash another version?
I’m sure I have some older versions at home, but I’m sure that someone else has them handier.
After I made my first SNES cable, (which was made correctly but didn’t work), I flashed it after realising that SNES/NES support was only added in FW1.5. I don’t know what FW it had on it already but flashing to 2.3 made no difference sadly.
If anyone can dig out any older FW versions that would be awesome. 1.5 would be interesting to try.
GC and Saturn cables arrived today to will make up cables and test those.
As far as my research shows, Atari controller don’t even have any “guts” to them, they just open/close switches directly to the console. No need for any PCB at all for them.
Hi! I would like to build a fightstick for my atari, but I’m not sure how to mount a db 9 connector to the back of a fightstick. I could run a wire through a hole in the back, but I would like to do something
“pretty”. I like the look of those RJ 45 or USB outlets but I don’t know if I can use them for the Atari.
here is the DB9 pinout for a Atari 2600 controller.
If you are doing a stick, you don’t need Paddle A and B unless you add a spinner.
There many, multiple ways to mount a DB9 to a stick, including just doing a straight DB9 connector.
There also a Switchcraft DB 9 panel mount that fits the same holes and patterns the Neutrik and Switchcraft USB and RJ45 passthoughs use. (You still need a solder on to DB9 connector)
Made up Saturn and GC cables. GC works perfectly, Saturn does not. Made yet another SNES cable to no avail. All wires test exactly for continuity as per the instructions by Toodles.
Can anyone dig out an old firmware for me please? Madness is about to set in…
I’m pretty sure that in the first revisions of the board for PSX Support you MUST use the first row but in case you are already in the first row try moving to the 2nd or 3rd row.
These diodes prevent the Clock and Latch signals from functioning unless they are pulled high. PAL controllers for these regions (NES-004) each contain a 3.6KΩ resistor between these two inputs and 5V.[2]
On these systems, only PAL controllers with the pull-ups can be read. NTSC systems can read controllers of either type. Modifying the internal controller port to bypass these diodes will make the PAL system compatible with both. Conversely, modifying a controller to add the pull-up resistors makes it compatible with both types of systems.
Fortunately, I have an old broken Famicom. I swapped out the controller port on my PAL SNES and hey presto. Bingo Bango. It F****** WORKS.
I knew I had these cables made correctly!!!
Now to figure the NES and Saturn. Likely a similar problem…
I’m off to play Super Ghouls 'n Ghosts on my Madcatz for 3 days solid.
Hope this post helps someone, thanks for all the help too.
I dunno about the Saturn; that’s one console I have yet to make a cable for myself yet (even though I do have an extension cable on-hand).
While I don’t recall any specific caveats from the MCC threads and documentation, from what remember in the PS360+ docs for creating similar cables, there was an additional requirement for bridging the “Home” signal onto another line. I don’t recall the exact details off the top of my head, though.
Oh my, shamefully, I never even knew about that issue.
@roostaar When I have some time I will add that info to the listing so other people who have PAL systems don’t have to go through that. BTW I see you have some of the diagrams, if you have the source for them I’d appreciate if you could share with me and I can add them to the site proper or in a PDF.
I recall the MC Cthulhu having a different resistor for row 2 & 3, I wonder if originally those were meant to be PAL versions.
Nope, just alternate lines to directly solder console cables to. Toodles made no mention of PAL / NTSC lines, just that the first row was best to connect an RJ45 to.
To Add to that, most US based fan developers have little to no interest in anything PAL. There is little for US hardware and software devs to gain from it.
I highly doubt that Toodles would include a European/PAL territory setting in any of his products.
NES/SNES controllers is the one area that the controllers are region lock (for PAL territories) and the modification for PAL SNES consoles to play US and Japanese controllers needs to be done in the console. Way Nintendo handled the European market, I am not surprised they didn’t get cheated worst.
As the NES as 2 different Lockout chips for Europe (labeled PAL A & PAL B), and the two aren’t compatible with each other.
The 2nd and 3rd rows having different resistors was for power consumption.
As it was to take in consideration of electrical impedance. Certain systems don’t like being connected to rows 2 and 3.
Some older Toodles Cthulhu boards had 5 rows instead of an on board USB type B jack.
Using the first row as RJ45 defeats the purpose of having multiple rows.
