The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

[Running_Uppercut]

I got my competition stick yesterday, and I haven’t had the chance to play on it yet cuz I didn’t have the time to wire it. But it did feel like a real solid stick and i just liked the way it felt. When I finish my project in a day or 2 I will put up a finished product picture. Thanks to everyone who has helped me make this dream a reality. I mean, who doesn’t want their own arcade set up at home?

[Dreaded_Fist]

this is kinda late but rotendo, the link does work, u just gotta cut and paste it. And i was talkin about how you wanted a black stick with red buttons/joystick.

the bow down boah(boy) part was…I dunno why i said that.

heres the attachment.

[System_1]

Nah, P360s always return to center like any other joystick. In fact, there’s no “microswitch bounce”(old overused busted joysticks) which can make parries easier.

*Originally posted by frog213 *
**

well I heard P360s are hard to get used to for 3S because neutral is funny? parries are a little trickier?

but then again I’ve never used a P360:rolleyes: **

[RoTeNdO]

*Originally posted by Dreaded Fist *
**this is kinda late but rotendo, the link does work, u just gotta cut and paste it. And i was talkin about how you wanted a black stick with red buttons/joystick.

the bow down boah(boy) part was…I dunno why i said that.

heres the attachment. **

I’ve seen your stick in another thread I think. Anyway… I remember you saying something about not closing it or something.

*RED COMPETITION BUTTONS: They are on back order. They had a request for about 187 of them and they didn’t have enough so, they are making some more, about 1,000 of them is what the lady told me and when they are done, they will get shipped. Just so you know if you ordered red competition buttons lately.

[System_1]

*Originally posted by Burning Ranger *
**I have an official Sega Joystick for the DC (which was released in the US by Agetec). Everything except the joystick is good. What I want to do is move everything to a new case and replace the joystick. Does anyone have anything that would help me? What kind of stick should I replace it with (and will be compatible)? **

the buttons are made for thin metal housings. i doubt you can reuse them. i would just use the board and use all new buttons and a stick in a wooden housing

[RoTeNdO]

*Originally posted by VincentDelpino *
** the buttons are made for thin metal housings. i doubt you can reuse them. i would just use the board and use all new buttons and a stick in a wooden housing **

Where have you been these past 3 pages? He’s using the grey plate, and moving it entirely to another casing. Not removing the buttons and the joystick. The agetec has a grey plate on top of the white plastic casing that can be removed using a star type screw driver. We’ve thought the same thing, and told him to do that until he expained it to use again what he was doing. It’s okay… we assumed the same thing.

[sixtymhz]

RoTenDo:

wanna meet up one weekend, and build my stick together??
We’ll take my agetec apart, take step by step and take pictures and make a page on how to make sticks?? I mean, it will help a lot of people out. It will take a while, but hell, be worth it. I’ll host everything if needed.

• 60mhz

[RoTeNdO]

*Originally posted by sixtymhz *
**RoTenDo:

wanna meet up one weekend, and build my stick together??
We’ll take my agetec apart, take step by step and take pictures and make a page on how to make sticks?? I mean, it will help a lot of people out. It will take a while, but hell, be worth it. I’ll host everything if needed.

• 60mhz **

Yeah, that’s cool. I got the tools and I’m comfortable using my own equipment. I’ll bring them with me and my ruler. I’ll even bring one of my PS Arcade to turn it into a stick as well (I have 3 left, new in box) NOT FOR SALE! :lol: Just in case some of you ask… Only thing that’ll we’ll have to buy is barrier strips. I guess I can use some of the parts… wait a minute. The parts come in Monday, so we can only do the dissecting part and the box building/hole drilling.

[System_1]

*Originally posted by RoTeNdO *
**

Not hard at all. Just order the parts you want. What you would have to do is this…

1. Since the wires are soldered on the MAS sticks, just cut them off at the base of the soldering, re-strip it and crimp on some .187 female quick disconnects (insulated or non insulated) and for the joystick, the same thing.

2. Go to www.happcontrols.com and order the parts you want to replace. Should take about 7 days to get your order online (fast)

3. Get the parts, write a thank you note, and proceed to replacing the parts.

4. Connect the wires to their respective buttons and controls.

5. Close it up, and test that shit!!

6. Send a payment by either money order or paypal to me (RoTeNdO) for $10 US

7. Rock that shit hardcore!!!

any further questions, pm me. **

5[V]?

[RoTeNdO]

*Originally posted by cowpaste *
**

5[V]? **

I mean, close the lid/top/enclosure/box so that the panel is flant or whatever and so you can test the stick and controls.

[System_1]

thanks rolento

thanks for all the help man. i thik i got this project down pak, yesterday i brought a pc board at radio shack and learned how to solder pretty good:D i think i’m gonna go all the way now and make a custom art with plexiglass top. i got a question about that. i notice on the sav stick that there is no sign of cartige bolts. how does he attach his plexiglass and art on the wood? also where can i find those cool pictures that he has. i have adobe photoshop 7 but i need the pics.

thanks everyone for all the help
~RaNDoM

[RoTeNdO]

thanks rolento

*Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI *
**thanks for all the help man. i thik i got this project down pak, yesterday i brought a pc board at radio shack and learned how to solder pretty good:D i think i’m gonna go all the way now and make a custom art with plexiglass top. i got a question about that. i notice on the sav stick that there is no sign of cartige bolts. how does he attach his plexiglass and art on the wood? also where can i find those cool pictures that he has. i have adobe photoshop 7 but i need the pics.

thanks everyone for all the help
~RaNDoM **

Most of the images he got from gamegen.com and went in ps7 and hooked it up. The bolts are underneath the artwork. What you do is use the bolts for the joystick base and fasten them down tightly. Depending on what type of board you’re using, they’ll either sink in themselves or you’ll have to route a tiny bit for the bolt heads to sink in a little more. If you go to your local arcade, you’ll notice that some games you won’t see the bolts for the joystick and only on the corners and such. He probably uses some sort of adhesive for the artwork to stick on the wood over the holes and bolts.

[System_1]

Re: thanks rolento

*Originally posted by RoTeNdO *
**

Most of the images he got from gamegen.com and went in ps7 and hooked it up. The bolts are underneath the artwork. What you do is use the bolts for the joystick base and fasten them down tightly. Depending on what type of board you’re using, they’ll either sink in themselves or you’ll have to route a tiny bit for the bolt heads to sink in a little more. If you go to your local arcade, you’ll notice that some games you won’t see the bolts for the joystick and only on the corners and such. He probably uses some sort of adhesive for the artwork to stick on the wood over the holes and bolts. **

if he put the bolts under the artwork, how did he attach the plexiglass on top?

[Voodoo]

Re: Re: thanks rolento

*Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI *
**if he put the bolts under the artwork, how did he attach the plexiglass on top? **

As long as the bolts are sunk below the surface of the wood, all it takes is some wood glue (or similar super-bonding product) to attach the plexiglass.

[Sir_Bryan]

Can someone send me a jpg or gif for the soldering points on a regular DC pad? I can only find it for a Nyko pad.

[System_1]

*Originally posted by Sir Bryan *
**Can someone send me a jpg or gif for the soldering points on a regular DC pad? I can only find it for a Nyko pad. **

you cant use that pad because it has analog LR buttons. get a really cheap pad.

[Sir_Bryan]

*Originally posted by blood_sin *
**

you cant use that pad because it has analog LR buttons. get a really cheap pad. **

do you have any suggestions?

[System_1]

Re: Re: Re: thanks rolento

*Originally posted by Voodoo *
**
As long as the bolts are sunk below the surface of the wood, all it takes is some wood glue (or similar super-bonding product) to attach the plexiglass. **

But wouldn’t the glue or super bonding product mess up the artwork?

instead of plexiglass glass can’t i just have kinkos make a big artwork and then laminate the art and then use the glue or superbonding product to attach it? if i laminate it can i drill the holes after? or will that mess up the paper in between?

~RaNDoM

[LBt1st]

I just found this thread and was going to link my goods but I see you guys have found my stuff already (Kevin’s Badass…).

Since everyone seems to know what your doing, and someone just asked, here’s a board detail for the normal DC Sega pad.
I do not have this on my site because I have blown my controller ports using this pad and I don’t want it to happen to others. I’ve made a few sticks using this pad though so if your careful and only solder where it shows, you shouldn’t have any problems.
The L and R’s are quite hard to solder, so if this is your first time I recommend getting a 3rd party pad.

http://members.cox.net/joysticks/joystick_images/dc/Sega_Pad_Detail.gif

If you do manage to blow your controller ports, refer to this thread:
whats wrong with my Dreamcast???

-LBt1st

[Voodoo]

Re: Re: Re: Re: thanks rolento

*Originally posted by RANDoM_MAI *
But wouldn’t the glue or super bonding product mess up the artwork?

Well, it might if you use glue like a first-grader. :lol: Just hit up the edges of the plexiglass. I guess it all depends on what your layers look like. Like, you don’t need plexiglass.

instead of plexiglass glass can’t i just have kinkos make a big artwork and then laminate the art and then use the glue or superbonding product to attach it?

Yes, you can. Ideally you’d print out the art on contact paper. Then you just peel off the back, stick it down (carefully), and work out any bubbles or anything. Most people use plexiglass just because it adds to the ‘professional look’, and it protects the art under it.

if i laminate it can i drill the holes after? or will that mess up the paper in between?

IMO, I would drill before you lay down the art. You have to line up your buttons how you’d like, and to make it even it usually requires drawing all over the wood. Then you can lay down the contact paper, punch out holes in it, install buttons, and wire it up.

Also lay out the plexiglass so you drill both the wood and pglass at the same time. Then move the piece of pglass, laydown the artwork, lay down the glass (attaching everything how you see fit), then finally punch out the holes.