The Official Custom Arcade Sticks Thread

This thread has been very informative, thank you very much.

I’ve built sticks before, and now I’m looking to make one with Japanese (Sanwa) parts. However it is proving quite hard to find them for sale.

I’ve Tried Arcade Infinity, who lists a vague Item called “Add 6 Button Setup To Jamma Cabinet.” & “Japanese Arcade” Buttons. Unfortunately, they haven’t responded to my question e-mail asking what this “6 button setup” exactly entails (and whether or not its parts are Sanwa-made). It’s quite frustrating. Has someone ordered parts from them and give me some details, or some info on their reliability?

Sanwa themselves will not accept international orders.

Ultimarc Carries the Sanwa stick, but not the buttons. So they are out.

Coin Express carries the parts, but they won’t ship me anything other than a bulk order.

Could someone point me in the right direction or recommend a seller/course of action?

Thank you,

-splits

Happ’s Super Joysticks

I use a Happ Super and do just fine with it and found it a huge improvement over the Ultimate I used to have. Do you see metal arms on the bottom that help the actuator contact the microswitch buttons? I don’t have that particular problem you’re referring to and that sounds more like something that would be characteristic of an Ultimate.

Selling Brand New Official Sega Dremcast Arcade Stick
the green stick/button just like Japanese Cabinets

if anyone’s interested go to this thread

http://shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19663

thank you

Only two left now cuz I got one locked down!! First come, first served, suckas!! :lol: j/k

I use competition joysticks and never have any problems with the ‘corners’ or anything. Neither with ultimate joysticks. It’s all preference and the way you hold your STICK I guess (haha) :smiley:

first off, I’d like to say it’s a about fucking time this thread became sticky. good job to everyone who has posted their sticks or has built one/many and doesn’t have a way to show the SRK community.(like me :stuck_out_tongue: ) and a thank u to peeps like m3talslug and rotendo who helped me like a year ago when i was in the construction process. :smiley:

SominexII
why u hatin’ on an ultimate? I think u’ve only expierenced it through the soft/standard spring? the hard spring makes it a completly different stick. basically I’ve never played on a P360 but I hold them in the highest regards, but at the same time I’m a 3S fan all-the-way and I need the joystick to return to neutral. I rate the ult.w/ H-spring #2, and P360 #1. but I also haven’t played on jap. stix so I can’t really make a final judgement.

speaking of jap. stix my friend in chi. said the arcade up there called “the hip” (namco arcade but has 1 mvc2 cab) has all jap. equip. and he said he loves it and he’s been a HAPP ult. player like me all his life. so splits if u here anything I’m interested!?

I want to post a pic of my stick but I don’t have a dig. camera:( but I’m wanting to get a dig. camcorder w/ still capability, I’ve started a thread and if anyone knows ANYTHING about them, please respond cause I’ve never owned/used one and I would sure appreciate the help … “shamelessplug” :depress:

http://shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19617

thanks

Name me a stick that doesn’t return to neutral <-- Every single stick I’ve used returns to neutral… even a busted old Jap stick with a totally worn out loose spring.

Hey, no problem man. That’s what we’re here for, to help each other. :smiley: It’s also why I made this thread to begin with. Hope we can see how you stick came out soon.

Ok. Here is a pic I edited, and from what I can see there isn’t a copper point for L2, Start, or select. So does this mean i am going to have to try to barely solder onto the point where the button would have come down?

Question??

has anybody opeded up the shadowblade stick by interact? or the really small one by interact? If so can i use that for a solderless project?

also when i went to radioshack they had like 20 didn’t kind of quick disconnects. which should i get? ones that fit 22 gauge wire? female ,male? i dun understand. sorry i’m totally new to the building things scene.

~RaNDoM

From Happ:
.187" Female Fully Insulated Quick Disconnect for use on 18-22 AWG Wire

You can’t get just females from Radio Shack sadly. But they do have bags of both male and female QDs that are cheap enough you can just pitch the male ones.

Those are perfect fit. Try Lowe’s, they should have female quick disconnect in a pack of 100 for only like $5-$7 I think. They have a smaller size pack and I know that they carry female alone packs. What type of wire you’re using? Use the 22 awg stranded or single, doesn’t matter.

what does AWG stranded wire mean. i have 22 gauge speaker wire that is stranded. is that ok??

~RaNDoM

sorry but i must be really dumb. how do i put the quick disconnect on the microswitc?
i put the wire threw one side, crimp it and then what do i do to attach it to the microswitch?

~RaNDoM

Re: Happ’s Super Joysticks

I am quite sure I have a Super. I have metal leaves and a round actuator. I don’t understand why nobody else is having this problem. The stick works fine, it’s just that the corners are way too sensitive. :frowning:

It’s really driving me nuts. Today I did a dash into a c. forward, and I ended up doing a normal jump into a double jump with a j. forward attack. It was wonderful not being able to block all the way down. Yay!

I have a question with cvs2 coming out for x-box live and the x-box sticks sucking is there a way to make your own stick for the x-box cause the Ps2 to x-box converter only works with dual shock ps2 cont. and not any of my sticks

x-box pads= :lame:

AWG= american wire gauge size. Hook up wire. That’s perfect, yes it’s ok. Just means that you have to twist the tip of the strands, that’s all.

PCB= printed circuit board

For connecting the quick disconnects, this is what you do:
a) crimp on the .187 female quick disconnect onto the end of the wire(s). Make sure it’s snug, but don’t tug on it too hard or you might pull the damn thing straight out! What I do is strip the wire a good inch and then bend the tip, making a sort of ‘U’ close together then crimp.

b) insert tab a into tab b :lol: >>> The female quick disconnect should SLIDE onto the microswitch and fit snugly.

c) make sure the connections work (test it out in practice mode, and make sure every direction/buttons works)

and d) send me a check for $10!!

well I heard P360s are hard to get used to for 3S because neutral is funny? parries are a little trickier?

but then again I’ve never used a P360:rolleyes:

newbie here, I own a standard MAS stick with the ultimate stick, and ultimate buttons … how hard would it be to replace the ultimate with a p360 and the ultimate buttons with convex ones?
would this require soldering ? or is it as easy as opening up the stick and swapping items …

Not hard at all. Just order the parts you want. What you would have to do is this…

  1. Since the wires are soldered on the MAS sticks, just cut them off at the base of the soldering, re-strip it and crimp on some .187 female quick disconnects (insulated or non insulated) and for the joystick, the same thing.

  2. Go to www.happcontrols.com and order the parts you want to replace. Should take about 7 days to get your order online (fast)

  3. Get the parts, write a thank you note, and proceed to replacing the parts.

  4. Connect the wires to their respective buttons and controls.

  5. Close it up, and test that shit!!

  6. Send a payment by either money order or paypal to me (RoTeNdO) for $10 US :smiley:

  7. Rock that shit hardcore!!!

any further questions, pm me.

Re: Re: Happ’s Super Joysticks

One of two issues here…

  1. Either the leaf arms have been bent to accentuate the corners.

  2. Spring tension may be different than what you’re used to playing with.

You can try bending the arms to see if this fixes your problem. I didn’t mess with mine and left them the way they came from Happ.