What’s the minimum height for the contents of the stick?
One of the layouts has 2.5 inch height of the walls + 0.5 inch thickness of the boards which makes the stick 3.5 inches. I’d like to have my stick a little thinner. If I get 1.5 inch walls for a total height of 2.5 inches, is that enough room inside for pcb & wiring? How about 1 inch inside? Would that be cutting it too close?
I would like to either get the corners routed or if I can’t find someone who has a router, I’d like to sand them down for a similar look. If I want to do that, I suppose fiberboard isn’t my best option? What is a good inexpensive wood to make the box out of?
I guess the minimun thickness would be a quarter inch thicker than the jstick base. I think I had an inch clearence in my plans. So I guess that it could fit in a stick that small, it would be tight though. hmmm I dont really know for sure, you are going to have to put the stuff in and see how much clearence you need exactly.
I just got an ultimate joystick and had a question for those who have it. How does it rank in comparison to the other sticks? Does it make “clicking” sounds when the stick is rotated? Anyone have one and play on CVS2 online?
mas uses genuine happ controls and sticks(p360 if you pay more)…i’ve used them and they’re not bad, the only thing i dont like about them is that the surface of the actual joystick is small, but its a very high quality product…
If you’re going to get a stick, and not build one. i suggest a MAS…same sticks and buttons as the arcade…
btw, mas sells sticks on ebay, you can score one for a lot less than what they advertise on their sites…w/ reserves as low as 90 i believe…theres also someone that builds custom sticks that sells them on ebay for around 80 or so…he will even customize it for you…just go look over there…laters
anything other than a p360 clicks(unless you have a p360 kit) b/c is other sticks use microswitches… i have a competition and that shit works perfectly…and you dont have to worry about a 5v connection, blowing ports, etc. the clicking isn’t all that bad, and will subside when properly broken in(i believe)
i love playing on p360 but, like someone posted earlier, i dont believe the cost is worth it…i’d rather get 3 competition sticks for 8.50 each than a p360 on sale for $25(which is only temporary)…save lots of money that way when building your own stick…although some people just cant play without them…
Sorry if i missed thie question answered eairlier, but can anyone tell me if its a bad idea to do a ps hack with a 3rd party analog controlor, or one with slo mo and auto fire, or one with both?
What do u guyz do to get those picz on the stickz??? I wanted to make a stick just like SevenD_eight’z, I bought some contact paper and I wanted to throw on some kind of pic on da background. Do u go to Kinko’z to have it made or do u just print it from a site??? If u go to Kinko’z then how much would it cost???
One more thing, it’z da blue wire in a Madcatz for the 5v??? I should have my stick up soon, but work and other shit is holdin’ me back.
Ok so i am SUPER new here. I am building sticks with my friend as well. There are A LOT of pages to go through. Can anyone tell me if it is at all POSSIBLE to wire the left and right sticks from the Madcatz xbox controller? i apologize if it has been answered many times before, but look at the threads length…my god. Anyway, any help would be welcome. ciao.
its actually better to hack a 3rd party than a regular ps/ps2 controller…turbo/slo-mo/etc all that doesnt matter…kuz you’ll be hacking the controller using only the buttons you want…
i printed out a copy on my comp that was the size of a normal 8 1/2 by 11 sheet of paper…went to kinkos and had them enlarge it to 11/14 on photo paper…they only charged me $2.13…cheap as hell …and just cut to fit…
oh yeah, its under plexiglass…that way it will last forever…good luck…
So, for those who have them, what is the difference between the ultimate and the competition joystick? They looked to be about the same to me. Then again, im new to all this.
A page or two back there’s a link to a review of all 3. Basically for fighting, of those 3 the Competition seemed to be the best (at least for the reviewer). Mine’s still being shipped so I can’t say from personal experience.
Flassh81, from what I have read, if you mean the left & right triggers then nobody has figured it out yet. You should be able to do it on the reflex hack but I still need to open it up to see. I’m pretty sure I read others have just fine.
Are there links to some decent pics for overlays? Eg character shots, good screens, etc? I found the small pics of each CvS2 character but I’m not sure I want to use those. I guess it’s more me being indecisive and graphically inept that’s the problem. I’ve bounced around from contact paper, nothing, combos of pics, CVS2 screenshot, some DOAX pics :), even a penny arcade strip. I suppose I’ll find something to make it look ok.
I am not selling sticks at this time, I live on campus and I have no where to work, sorry. Also If I was going to build sticks I would make a few that where 90% complete before I took orders and when I ran out I would probably stop. I dont want to end up like sav with 300 or more orders and be the only one working on them lol.
I heard redoctanes are good, but they just have to have the buttons and stick changed so for like 50 bucks you have a good stick.
The person who posted earlier wanted to know how the ultimate ranks, its at the bottom, both the comp and super are considered better.
I suspect that you have a bad solder joint somewhere, I have no delay on any of my moves at any time, even when playing on a converter? So Id double check and make sure there isnt some rosin between your solder and your copper.
Actually delay in moves is a problem with certain convertor/joypad combinations that were discussed a few times in the past. Especially if you have one of the older ones (usually white in color).
Would it be possible to put the Reflex PCB into my DC MAS without soldering? Also what would be the difficulty or chance of screwing the ability to use it on the DC? Thanks
…and just cut to fit…