no way you can only pay 100. you have shipping.
100 base with ps2
+30 for DC add on
+20 for custom all blackbox, red buttons and soft spring competition.
+20 for shipping
170 grand total
~RANDoM
If you’re running off a jamma system (going to assume no since you’re not using a jpac), dc2jamma is really easy to do.
You might find something of worth here though:
http://www.mameworld.net/pc2jamma/arc_dc1.html
the info on that page is wrong
Almost every post on this thread assumes US style sticks and buttons, IIRC the japanese buttons are a different size, so they may not fit in US holes, technically if your the one making the box you can do whatever you want, just keep in mind the dimensions and layout will be slightly off… the concepts (grounds, switches, etc…) still apply the same.
Yeah, I am not using Jamma. I just have arcade controls to an Ipac > Ipac to PC > PC to TV.
My only hurdle is getting my arcade controls to my DC.
I saw one of the links where someone wired their controls to PS controllers then used adapters to DC and USB. Maybe thats the best solution for me.
Brad
Does anyone know how many grounds the palican dual shock controller has?? Anyone know a dual shock 1 or 2 thats hack friendly and or have 1 ground???
What’s the best controller to use on Capcom Vs. SNK 2 EO for the XBox? The main controller sucks ass. What do you guys use?
Ok, thanks. I just needed to know if the wiring was the same. What PC controller is the easiest to wire to make a joystick? Preferrably, solder-free.
the whole board is basicaly a ground just find an aera without any traces on it and scrape off the coating till you hit copper
I have only seen Xbox sticks with 6 buttons (besides back/start), so I want to know if it is possible to wire up the L/R triggers so there’ll be 8 usable main buttons, because MK:DA needs at least 7 and I want to play it as well as cvss2 :rolleyes:
And which stick/buttons would you recommend a gamer whose only experience is the DC Arcade Stick?
Chris
Dc Madcatz ??
Does anybody know how many different looking boards there are for the Dreamcast Madkatz? I have looked at CdVisions page, and he shows 2 different Madkatz DC boards. I purchased 2 white Madkatz controllers…and both of them look different than the two on the CDVision page. I am trying to find out how many of them have 1 ground, 2 grounds, or multiple grounds. I am trying to make a multi-system arcade stick, and would like all controllers to be 1 ground… Any help… And, YES, I have read this whole forum. So I am using the Xbox Madkatz, and PS2 Madkatz.
Not sure how many people here have been using my Madcatz hack for Xbox but i found a flaw in my design that has been corrected on Feb 15th. So if you haven’t been to my site since then and your buttons are acting up go there for the fix.
http://members.cox.net/joysticks
-LBt1st
I used the Madcatz modification and my stick iss working well. I do have one additional question, which was also asked but not answered previously. There were some confusing parts of your directions. First, you mentioned:
The resistors are still there and may cause games think L or R are slightly pressed. These come off easily by pulling on them while heating their connections. Use clamps or a friend to do this safely.
Which resistors are those? Are they the remnant tabs from the triggers as alluded to below?
You’ll notice the resisters have three connections. On the board you need to connect two of these together using either a long blob of solder or a tiny piece of wire (See below pic). With the board positioned as if it were a gamepad, connect the top and middle conenctions. If your not sure if you got the right ones note that the remaining connection is Ground.
On your site, you mentioned tht you can connect the middle of the three connections. I did that and it works. However, can you still use the triggers by connecting the soldered end to a button? Again, any and all help is appreciated. LB1st’s site is helping many out there.
Sadly it seems at this time there’s no way to conenct L and R. I know this screws over MK. I’ll see if I can figure out a way.
I think it’ll be possible using a generic resistor inline with the button. I’ll have to expirement later.
And yes the deal with the solder blobs should be done on both sides.
I’ve updated the site with more detail. Thanks guys for the feedback. Every question/comment you guys have will possibly help many, so don’t hesitate.
-LBt1st
I have a Reflex arcade stick and it has some problems. The chat is very static filled, making it hard to communicate. I would like to replace the buttons and the stick and fix the dongle slot. Does anyone forsee any problems with taking out the garbage buttons and stick and replacing them with good quality ones? I like the design of the stick so it would be ideal to replace instead of build from scratch. Thanks guys.
That stick doesn’t use standard arcade parts, so I doubt that you will be able to just replace the stick and buttons. Have you tried opening it up and seeing how easy it would be to hack? Seems like it might be easier to hack than the Mad Catz, since the triggers are actually buttons on this one. I’m thinking of doing this myself, since it is only about $16 at EB.
New Custom Questions
I also would like to know this. It would be nice to see if there is already work done on the dual shock before I rip one up like tonight or tomorrow.
I did open up the Relfex stick and the stick base looks the same as what I see on Happs site. The buttons don’t look similar. I don’t think there is enough depth for good quality buttons. I was just going to replace them and see what happens but I want the ability to talk smack while playing and the dongle slot on the Reflex stick sucks. I can hardly hear anyone, it’s full of static and they can’t hear me. That is why I decided to go with the Mad Catz hack. I did everything already to my Mad Catz controller(removed the triggers, extended the chat dongle,etc) so now I just need the parts. I don’t think they will so I will have to make my own case for it. I’m trying to fix the chat problems inside of the Reflex stick. If I do that I’m going to order an extra stick and replace the one inside of it. That would be a pretty easy hack if everything goes well.
Okay, I picked up a Reflex Arcade Stick today for only $17 at EB and tried it out. It worked okay, but the stick and buttons are a bit stiff and everything is too small.
So then I decided to open it up, and inside is a great circuit board that can be used for a custom setup. All the connections for the buttons, joystick, and headset slot are actually WIRED to the pcb, and all the wires are clearly labeled. So I snipped all the wires, removed the circuit board, and soldered all the wires to the corresponding wires inside my old C&L Championship Joystick for the SNES. It was so easy, and only took an hour or two. The stick worked perfectly!
Now I just have to add two more buttons to the case for the left and right trigger, and cut a hole for the headset connector. This was a really simple and inexpensive way to get a fully functional custom stick with voice support. It’s even easier than the Mad Catz hack, and works better, too.