I’ve got a new layout so anyone linking to any of “Kevin’s Badass…” joysticks pages may need to change them. There’s still a bit left for me to do. Most of the text is a quite brief, I plan on revising it all a few times. But for now I wanted to get the new xbox stuff on there since everyone’s itching for CvS2
If anyone’s got any questions/suggestions, even if it seems obvious, let me know. I’ll be working on the site off and on for the next couple days.
I’ve got my stick finished (plently of pics on the site). I think it came out pretty good and I’m pretty happy with how I got the port for the Live communicator setup. I can’t wait for CvS2 so I can try it out.
Will that madcatz pad work on xbox live? Some of those third party pads dont work on live and I’d hate to go through all that trouble to find out it doesn’t work
Everyone here is the best! I have seen some reports of hacking a Madcatz pad so I bought one myself. You beat me to the punch though I do NOT have the experience that you do at these! Hats off to you. Great site and the pics are good. I do have one question. Some of the posts indicate that the red/black wiring from the rumble motor are 5V(red I suppose). Isthis right for the Madcatz pad? If it is, then you have a ready made 5V lead PLUS ground for the stick. I am not sure if this is a common ground for the pad itself or just the motor. If it is a common ground, the work becomesthat much easier as you can daisy-chain that ground wire to the whole assembly. If notm then that ground can go to the 360 stcik and one can come offthe D-pad and daisy chain from there, right? Any responses to these questions are appreciated!
Thanks, I didn’t try testing the motor connections because I figured they would only have any juice while the motor(s) are actually spinning. Perhaps the the hot wire does always have power though and the ground for the motor is what’s turned off and on.
I also found this pad to be the easiest to solder out of any of the one’s I’ve ever done. You get to work with large bare metal connections. Put a dab of flux on each one and you can do the whole thing in minutes.
sefskillz, yes the MadCatz works with Live just fine. Even with my port setup I could hear and speak just fine. However, this is a shitty controller for Moto GP
I am looking for a japanese “baseball bat” joystick as apposed to the ball. I saw it on a website a while ago but lost the link. I am looking to buy it online.
Alright, for anyone interested in doing this madcatz xbox mod, MadCatz is Electronic Boutique’s VOM this month so the deal is if you buy any madcatz accessory you get the second one half off. So if you want to pick up a ps2 madcatz controller (19.99) to make an arcade stick with you can pick up an xbox one as well for just 9.99…
you can do this on their site as well, use the coupon code VOMFEB
man, i have a major problem trying to get my P360s to work…the same problem persist for both DC and PS2…so this is the problem…i’ve found my 5V on the pad (multitester) and have my common ground ready…but as soon as i plug in my directional wires to the corresponding place, it startes going haywire…let me describe it in detail
i plug in the UP wire=nothing happens
when i plug up the DOWN wire with the UP wire plugged up already=it starts going UP repeatedly
so as soon as i plug up the second directional wire, it proceeds to activate to previous wire constantly…and get this, i have the 5v and ground connected for the P360, but even when i the 5v and ground disconnected, IT DOES THE SAME EXACT THING. so regardless of the wires being connected, it still behaves the same exact way. i don’t get it…is there something being scrambled on the pad…and how is the P360s going haywire even without the ground and 5v being connected…this is very frustrating. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!
The same thng happened to me on my first try. Check your soldering. You have probably connected a lead and ground somewhere with solder. Make sure on the contacts under the buttons that the solder hasnt linked the 2. Its easy to do. Thats probably what happened. Just re solder your up joint. Clean the the solder off first though.
$20 - controller to use
$15 - joystick
$15 - buttons
$20 - to make a Nice box (paint & graphics etc.)
$40 - Theoretically, 8 hours of your time @ on $5 an hour.
…that’s $110…hmmmm
Oh yea…(Extra for tools if you don’t have’em) (Plus add even more if it’s your first time. It’s going to take you longer, plus you’ll probably make some mistakes.)
…realistically, I just don’t see a BIG savings with making your own. Unless you’ve just got everything you need already laying the house, or you’re just doing this for personal enjoyment… I’m just not seeing it…
Cause if your going through all that trouble, odds are that your going to at least be resourceful, my pads were $3 at EB clearance (save $14, get 2) , If you don’t want convex or 360 i recommend XA sticks and buttons, which totals $20 for 2 sticks (save $10), ok $20 for box, but get enough for 2. That is a savings of $24 off your total, and i have 2 sticks instead of one. Now consider that half the people on SRK have nothing better to do, and their time isn’t worth $40, so now you have a total of $56 (I added 10 for misc parts) for 2 joysticks. Oh i forgot psx->* adaptors, so ends up around $80.
Personally, I built my own. It made sense for me simply because I actually had “everything” laying around. Joysticks, buttons, all the tools, wire, solder, soldering iron & even a gutted box. I definitely wanted to have voice capability on LIVE, so I spent $20 on a xbox MADCatz controller & and installed it in a manner that I could easily take the headset unit in & out.
I agree, it is very possible to be very resourceful & save a little. I guess it all boils down to is if the hassle of scavenging for parts, building boxes, doing electronics work and possible trouble shooting is worth $20-$30 to the individual.
Eventhough I’ve actually made close to a hundred of these things & am extremely comfortable doing so… if I didn’t have my tools & parts laying around like I did…I wouldn’t have. I would’ve paid someone the $20 I would’ve saved & been free of the hassle…
Yeah. One way is with an iPac ($40 - http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html). You solder your button inputs into the ipac board, then just plug the board into your pc’s ps/2 or usb port. You’re sort of just replace a controller with the ipac.
Another way is when you take a keyboard apart, wire up buttons to the (giant) circuit board, and go from there. Lots of people used to do that for Mame cabs before the ipac came around. It takes a little bit more effort though.
