Get competition joysticks, same price as ultimates and feel better all around. By that I mean the motion and etc…
TO whoever bought the ultimate j/s… you have to buy the hard spring separate. They don’t sell it installed. Feels better than the ult. j/s itself w/o the hard spring so if you go ult. add a h.spring
Depending on what buttons you want, most people get competition pb. the convexed type (rounded top) over the ultimate pb. If you decide to get the ones that you’re used to at your local arcade like the ultimates, go with the horizontal ones. They feel closer to competitions over the ultimates. The ultimates bezel is longer and the damn ridges/ ring on top around the concave bubble hurts you fingers when mashing a lot.
If it’s for the DC, then all you need is just 6 buttons, and a 1st player start button (they are with the horizontal buttons page)
For the plexi go to home depot or lowe’s or another hardware store. For the carriage bolts, find a good hardware store cuz lowe’s won’t carry the size you’ll need.
For .187 female quick disconnects (insulated or non) I know lowe’s carry them in a small box of 100 for only like $5-7. So if you mess up a lot, you have plenty more, and the rest for your next stick:D The awg wires you buy at Radio Shack. Get the .22 size ones, stranded or solid wire, really doesn’t matter. Oh, and get the 110/90 ft one, cuz if your going to spend $2. or 4 or whatever it is of the wire, you want the longest lenght. Why? cuz if you get the 50 ft one, it’s the same price as the 90 ft one!! That’s like buying two for the price of one!! So go with the longest wire they have available. Another reason of the long lenght is because you want to use at least 15" to 20" of wire per button. Why? So when you decide to open the lid/enclosure and it flies open, it won’t pull out of the damn pcb or the microswitches.
I live in vegas, a happ store is about 20 minutes away from me, and im just wondering if they just let people go in and take the stuff and just buy it in there.
And I would like to wish my Uncle a Happy B-Day, he served the Navy for 27 years.
Ok,Ive printed your stuff out Rotendo, thanks
and Competition sticks right?
So 6 competition buttons, and 1 extra horizontal start button right?
I can get the awg wires and stuff
and when i read about the competition buttons, it says Lexan goes good with it.
And the Competition Sticks and Solder and thats about it right?
I’ll be going if they need us. My unitis not deploying (anytime soon or yet) There is already several units deployed here on base and I work for headquarters. If they send me, I’ll go. Fuck, the sooner we get shit done, the better so all this shit can be over with. I still disagree will going to war and shit, and especially without anyone backing us up, but I’m not going into that and this is not the thread to.
Magnetix(2) sounds about right. Just make a checklist and double check you have everything.
Right now, I’m working on my first actual soldering project. Really easy, but still prefer the ‘lazy way’ cuz it’s quicker
I’m using a PSX pad that I got from Wal-Mart for about $4.98. This is by far the easiest pcb you’ll ever have to work with. Copper points and huge and are visible for every button/direction and you’ll know what each one is. Too fucking easy!! Any my pc cam is a piece of shit that I haven’t returned to wal-mart so I scanned the fucker!! I did a good job too. Don’t worry about the top copper points, they were for rapid fire, turbo, slow mo etc…
That’s right, Wal-Mart and they carry these things by the fucking bundles and really cheap!
no more than 6.00…
ideal price… go to kaybee or wal mart… maybe game stop… they will have it…
i used PC solder on my PCB… it worked great for me…
if u mess up on a solder, use a razor blade to cut connection line on the pcb… if u know what i mean… cut deep so that the copper line is not connected, then scratch on top of the line so you can solder that part.
if you have ever opened a mas stick, you see that they use ONE LONG Striped wire, then soldered it onto all of the grounds in one chain…
Have you even read through the whole thread? It doesn’t seem like it cuz your answers are in earlier pages.
PCB is printed circuit board
The DC only has 6 buttons and the start button so you’re good there.
What are you talking about grounder?! The ‘ground’ you mean? You must connect every microswitch to a ground connection, usually done by daisy chaining. Just read the thread to make sure you got and understand everything within the whole thread Hope that helps answers the rest of your questions. It’s all here!!
ok, so do i buy a “ground” thing too? ive been reading through the HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN ARCADE STICK in the first page of this thread,and can you just please POST EVERYTHING I NEED!!
Now do you guys see why I acted the way I did when he originally posted? Were basically retyping the first 12 pages of this thread for this guy because he never read them to begin with.
After all the tutorials and shit we’ve put together, all the pics and diagrams…
Man I REALLY feel like your stepping on my balls.
Magnetix(2) and RunningUppercut: Stop the bs between you two, do it through pm’s or whatever. I want to keep this thread informative and free from flame…please. Is that too much to ask? Try to reason with each other or something. Or IGNORE each other if it can be helped. Thanks Kewl?
Anyway, to answer Magnetix(2)'s question about the ground. Look at my previous posts. See them yet? Now, at the bottom are attachments. See those? Click on them and check it out. It’s a pic of a PSX/PS2 pcb (printed circuit board) from a gutted $5 Wal-Mart controller. I have the copper points labled. They are the circle brass points that you see paths connected to. They are what you solder on to for the buttons and directions including start and everything else. Finding the GROUND on your pcb may be different, Look closely and FOLLOW the path where I marked the ground copper point. See it go all the way around the board? It hits everything (almost) That’s the easiest way to tell if it’s a ground connection or just a button/direction. The button copper points are usually located near… the buttons. If you don’t see any copper points, just do what they said in the above post. Scratch along the path to that button or whatever and solder onto that or use a dremel tool and drill a tiny hole in the path and solder.
I hope that his post here explains things a bit clearer for you. Good luck!
Back on page 8 of the thread the Enforcer board was mentioned as a useable board. I ripped mine apart, and labeled the two grounds and button points. For anyone interested, here is the link to the picture. http://www.geocities.com/rhcww/index.htm
Sorry the text is so small.
No spamming in these threads thank you. [sixtymhz!]