hi guys,
i’m looking to buy a custom joystick from one of you guys.
can you guys post or PM me who is recommended at a fair price?
thanks.
Preview of my first custom stick entitled “Serenity”. I think all custom sticks should have titles as they are works of art as a great painting would have. High gloss Larkspur blue Varnish finish. All Sanwa. Working on wiring up the inside. I have some 20gauge solid silver wire I am considering for the 6 attack buttons. Its beautiful wire and solid silver provides the fast signal response possible although its crazy expensive. More pics to come later. Thanks to ChainZ for help with the box. I will most likely sell this when its done. So if there is any intrest let me know.
Peace,
Steve
That is a very pretty stick. I hope mine comes out half as good. 
Some of Darkside’s sticks have toggle switches that change the button config, but how does that work?
Templates . . .
Before posting in this thread, I researched the whole day on the SF Anniv Stick. I found the threads on how to mod it and customize it (helped a lot). But, I searched and searched and couldn’t seem to find an actual template for the stick :sad: (cuz I want to change the art by creating my own). The closest thing I found was this site: http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/download.htm
I measured the stick n everything…bout 16x10.
Anyone help with a template?:xeye:
Just added Spiffyshoes’ solderless hack to the links section. I would also like to point out that almost all Dualshock2 controllers are series A, some however says H (on the back) Model number should be SCPH-10010. I have yet to open up an H series pad, but I’ll check it out later as much as I don’t want to open mine.
If there are any other pad tutorials of anykind, please let me know so that I may add them to the links that I have up. Thanks
RoTeNdO
I don’t believe the solderless hack works with DS2 pads. I could be wrong but I’m 99% sure that I’m not. They have extra terminals and because of the analog buttons, they don’t register correctly. The solderless hack is very nice though. That’s what I usually use since soldering is a bother most of the time and it’s a quick hack.
~Paik
would using a dualshock 2 a-series (assuming it works) eliminate the lag issues that psone a-series controls have with converters? a small touch analog button wouldn’t be hard to implement to turn off the analog function
I myself have never encountered any lag with any official Sony controllers, Namco arcade stick, PS Arcade, and a few others that I can’t think of right now.
It may also have to do with your converter. I have at least 4 different types and they all have they differences.
Paik4Life: Have you performed a solderless hack before? I think it would be useless to put up a tutorial of a hack and not have it tested. Spiffyshoes has a good reputation and he’s not one to put up some mediocre bs hack. For fighting games, you are not going to use 8 buttons, the select, or the analogs. Every PSX/PS2 stick I’ve built, I have left out the select, L2/R2, and analogs and never had a problem with any of the buttons registering correctly.
Rotendo: Yes, I’ve done the solderless hack (I even said that I usually do this method in my previous post…) but it’s only for DS1 NOT DS2 because there is a difference. You didn’t read/understand what I said. When I talk about analog buttons I’m referring to the triangle, square, x, and circle buttons not the analog sticks, again there is a difference. For the DS1 those main buttons are digital. For DS2 they are analog. You can’t use the solderless on those DS2 because of this. There are extra terminals because of the nature of the analog buttons (18 instead of 16) and THAT’S the reason why it doesn’t work. Sorry if you misunderstood, but I know the solderless hack very well and know that SpiffyShoes has a good reputation and was not by any means saying it was bogus.
EDIT: pxldtz, I have never experienced lag with first party PS1 or PSOne dual shocks on my converters. That’s why most people use them instead of others. DualShock2s are very hard to hack, again due to the analog buttons as explained above. It is possible but not for a beginner or even intermediate builder.
~Paik
Ah, okay. Thanks for clearing that up. When you had analog buttons, I thought it was a typo and you meant the actual analog controls. Still, pretty good tutorial. I guess it just needs to be updated with possible problems having it work correctly and then some solutions.
Do you have any, or do you know exactly why it does what it does. I remember someone posting about the DS1/2 hacks in the last thread.
I’ve never had problems with the solderless hack. I think it’s a really great hack. You just have to make sure you get the correct PCB. The Series A and Serial number 1200 are not sure fire signs that you got the right one. You bacially have to buy them and open them up and make sure. I’ve had to go to a number of Gamestop, EBgames, and Funcolands to get as many as I have. I have about 7 or so left. Spiffy recommends looking for the translucent pads so you can look at the back and actually see the ribbon connector.
One suggestion I will make is to use 22 gauge solid wire. They fit very tightly into the terminal and don’t need the little plastic ribbon to keep them in tight.
I don’t know of any DS2 tutorials. I haven’t really looked. I recall armadillo having done a DS2 hack and reporting it as being very difficult because of the analog buttons (which I believe are pretty much usless since only like racing games and MGS have used them). I hope PS3 has an easier pad to hack but it’ll probably have analog buttons again so it’ll still be difficult not to mention costly!
~Paik
I would also include using a glue gun to help keep the wires in place. MD huh? Anywhere near Silver Spring? I have some boys up there. Eric, Pete, and Isaac, but he is now in NC.
Oh yeah, I use hot glue to secure the wires in place. Definitely a good idea.
Haha, I actually do live in Silver Spring. I don’t know which Eric you’re talking about but I know Pete (MVC2 player I assume) and Isaac. Not well since I’m not a 2D player, but know them. I was in RI for the last 2 years after I graduated I just moved back in December so I’m a bit out of the scene.
Oh and thanks to Nitewalker, he did show me a DualShock2 tutorial. It’s not very in depth but it says you can hack it similarly but you have to have a separate ground for the digital buttons (analog, start, select). And you can’t hack it with a P360.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/controls_playstation.htm
I’m not sure it’ll work with the solderless method. Some of the DS2 have a similar ribbon connector and some don’t. I’ve looked into the 4 that I have and there are 3 different kinds of PCBs…Nitewalker said he’ll probably try it tomorrow and report back.
~Paik
i wonder what could be wrong. my adapters are Game Elements and one Innovation Connection. the first few pages of the thread recommend these for the psone DS1. the controller i used was the EXACT one in spiffyshoes tut.
does negative wiring matter? i used a barrier strip instead of daisy chaining the negative across each button.
No that shouldn’t matter. I have done sticks for people that daisy chain and ones with barrier strips. I also have both game elements and innovation and have had no problems…I’m not sure what it could be…I wish I could help you out more but given everything you’ve said, it should be working correctly.
~Paik
STEVETREN that’s one hot stick mang one of a kind:tup:
DualShock 2 Hack Experience
Here’s what I got so far. First of all, the only nice things about hacking a DS2 are the longer wire, and the fact that it should be universally compatable with converters. It’s still readily available as well.
Here is the pad I’ll be using. I decided to use this one because it already wasn’t working properly. The x button didn’t work at all so I just kept it around.
This is the back. Notice the PCB style and the connection above the analog stick on the right side of the picture. I though I’d have to solder here which wouldn’t be too bad because the points are clear and decent sized, although I’ve seen smaller.
Here’s the controller with the back off. It uses a similar white plastic harness similar to the A series dual shock 1 for holding the thin connector card in place. You can get a better view of it here.
Here’s the PCB in it’s naked glory. I removed the thin connector sheet for clarity. It plugs into a slot in the back nearly identical to the A-series hack. You can see the connector here.
Here’s a closer view of the connector. Sorry for the blurriness. 24 awg solid wire is too thin and slips out easily (go ahead Paik, rub it in :p) and I’ve yet to go back to radio shack for some 22 awg solid wire so the rest is on hold til tomorrow. Tonite, what I’ll do is map the connector and test the PCB on the PS2 to make sure the x button not working isn’t at the connector. That would ruin the whole hack…
Til tomorrow.
EDIT 4/30/06
Ok the x button still isn’t working on this pad so I’m guessing the chip’s fried.
sighs
Maybe I’ll get a preowned one just for this purpose…
I’m actually debating this for my future sticks. Having select is nice (Paik pointed a bunch of reasons out to me for Tekken) but I feel it does kind of take away from the “playing at the arcade” experience I like to have with custom sticks. I’m still not sure. I’ll be building a T5 DR control panel replica soon so I’ll probably leave select out of that one and see how it goes.
what kind of casing’s do u guys use? wood or metal? better yet, which do yall prefer?
woodish i guess ( i use 3/4" mdf. very solid. and very soft to cut through)
also for the debate. I use SELECT/BACK because of modded xbox’s. START+BACK+L+R cause and ingame reset. which resets back to the main menu to select another game.