You can run multiple systems by using a ton of diodes and related wiring of said diodes. Might be a pain to do that with 3 though.
Diodes dont really work for this since you cant prevent the signal from going down the ground for all 3 PCBs. And since the signal goes down the ground it can then come back around the other way through the diode that was supposed to stop it. So in the end the other PCBs still get a signal.
The only way you could do it with diodes is if you have diodes on the the main wires from the PCBs and then have switches to shut off the grounds of the controllers not being used. Though I am pretty sure Toodles method didnt use either switches or diodes.
IIRC Toodles used a microchip of some kind for a two pad system, XBox and PSX. I have read so much over the last few days everything is becoming a blur. So no mater what you use diodes, switches or the chip it is more expensive and work intensive than project boxes. Space is a consideration too. He wants a box similar to my lacewood one in size. There is no way I can get three pads in something that small.
Thanks for all the help guys.
TTFN
Okay, I found the topic I was thinking of:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=139527
I would think that the least work would come from useing the project boxes, and it would also make it much easier to fit evertyhing into the stick. Although I am fairly certain that you could fit everything in the stick it would just be really tight. I know on my stick (12" x 8" x 2-1/8" with 3/4" walls) I would have just enough room for two PCBs and I dont quite remember but I think your all wood box was a little larger than my stick.
As far as cost, I think the project boxes would be the slightly more expensive way depending on where you get your diodes and switches. You would need
3*(the number of switches) for diodes
1 or 3 switches depending on whether or not you could find a single switch that would work.
So as far as diodes go, for a 6 button controller with start and select, you would have 12 switches including the ones on the joystick, for a total of 36 diodes.
So overall its probably best to go the route of project boxes for what the guy wants. It will be a little more expensive but it will save a lot of your time and fustration.
Thanks for the link. I would still be worried about cross talk between the boards. Am I being overly cautious? I don’t understand too much about electronics, just enough to be dangerous. I can do simple stuff like wire up LEDs, switches and such but finding a power line or a ground in a cable is a bit out of my skill set still.
My lacewood box is actually a bit smaller then yours 11.5 x 7.5 x 1 7/8 with 3/4 sides. The angle of the sides makes it look bigger. The layout he wants is 7 buttons including a button for the thumb and the start/select buttons above the joystick. With that layout and the low profile there is really only room for one PC board.
Thanks for all your help.
Kaytrim
From the sounds of his last email he wants all three PC boards in the stick. He is ok with the stick being larger. Now I have to figure out how to make this all work in the stick. Maybe I can get Toodles to give me some help figureing this out.
TTFN
^^Damn three pcb boards with three sets of wires? you gonna use project boxes?
That is the way I want to go but he wants it all encased in the stick.
Im also thinking of doing this myself. Having a playstation, dreamcast, and xbox 360 pcb in one stick.
i need to buy a stick for dreamcast anybody?
Question:
I have my DC agetec stick which I installed Sanwa buttons and a stick on. I have a question about wiring the buttons though (I’m using the agetec’s stock PCB)…
The stock PCB, the ground is a common ground… yet the buttons only have two prongs each, unlike Happs which all have 3 prongs, one for the ground. How do I wire this? Do I have to wire two ground wires to one of the prongs on each button, one of the ground wires comming from the last button to prong A, one ground going to the next button on Prong A, and then the other colored wire to prong B for each button?
This is way messy if I solder it, so which size QD’s do I use on OBSF 30s?
Either one of the prongs will work as ground.
Cool…do you know what size QDs I should use?
0.110" for Sanwa buttons. But IIRC, it’s not recommended to use QDs because the prongs are vertical, and apparently the fit isn’t tight enough to guarantee no slippage. Maybe you could tighten them with pliers, but I’m not certain. I suppose adding a bit of electrical tape to hold them in place couldn’t be dangerous in any way.
Most sanwa and seimitsu buttons use the .110 QD. I have had no issues with them slipping off. If they feel loose then give them a little squeeze with a pair of pliers.
TTFN
Kaytrim
I have a few questions - I also posted a thread but I may get more help here.
I have had a mas stick with a p360 for about five years now.
When on character select screens in games such as MvC2 I can hold any direction and the cursor cycles through characters extremely quick. Or if I hold back while in game I dash. Is this the stick? If so. what would it take to put another stick into it?
I am pretty good with wires and hooking things up but have never done any work with joysticks.
Also the mas stick has Dreamcast and PS2 hookups… the ps2 one does not work. Is there an easy way to fix this?
Thanks,
Adam
Hey guys, quick question:
Could someone tell me what color wires go to what button on the stock agetec? I’ve modded mine with sanwas but I stupidly didn’t write down the colors…
I think you can just pick a game like 3rd strike, test out the buttons one by one, and figure it out from there.
I was asking because I was going to solder the wires since I couldn’t find .110 QD’s ANYWHERE I looked, but I got some small ones that seem to work, so I’ll just test it myself as you said. :tup:
Just to let you know, I got my .110s from a Marine/Auto shop on eBay.
They’re for 16-14 awg wires, but if you crimp a little extra hard, they work fine.