ok how would a happ comp stick go in a T5 case?
ive seen it before SO DONT CALL ME CRAZY
but seriously someone tell me i want to do this
Uh which is easier to fit in the hori xbox stick sanwa or an siemitsu ls-32/33
it truely doesnt matter. sanwa prongs dont have colors. but i would have been confused if they did 
32 wont fit
from what i hear an ls33 fits in an FS3
which is the same size as you 360 stick
OKay, that doesnt make sense to me⌠I use 1/4" MDF for my top board and it is more than strong enough to handle any force without breaking or snapping. However, I dont use screws to hold my stick together, I use 3/8" threaded posts that I custom buy. They are extremely strong and have large flat heads so that they wont break through smaller holes.
For Sanwa sticks, I mount the stick metal base directly to the bottom of the 1/4" MDF. It is said that 9mm recessed from the top of the lexan is considered âarcade perfectâ. With the 1/4" MDF and the 1/8" lexan, it is about 9.5mm recessed from the top, thus making it pretty close to arcade perfect. With a 1/2" MDF and 1/8" lexan, you would have to dremel down half way into the MDF in order to make it arcade perfect⌠this negating any advantage you would get from a 1/2" MDF over 1/4" MDF.
With Seimitsu sticks, they are already considered arcade perfect if you mount them directly underneath the lexan, so 1/8" from the top of the lexan. So what I do for those is cut a large square out of the MDF top board and I glue on another MDF board underneath it. The mounting place of the Seimitsu stick is exactly 1/4" so it rests snug and perfect on top of the second MDF.
That is what most people donât have access to, the custom stuff.
I canât argue with your math.
Here I donât use a dremel, I use a router. You can get a much more precise recess that way. Here I have to disagree with you on the strength of the top. The small area that is 1/4" in thickness is strengthened by the 1/2" that is surrounding it. Personally 1/4" plywood or MDF flexes too much to feel very supportive. I would rather use 3/4" MDF but you really have to cut all kinds of slots and recesses for a Sanwa JLF to fit. That is why I recommend using 1/2" MDF
Having never used Seimitsu sticks I canât say anything different here.
TTFN
I use some sort of 1/4" plywood type deal with a 1/8" plexi top and bottom mounting a JLF sets it at the perfect arcade height. The only thing with using a thinner top panel is that you need to support it more around the frame. You cant just have a post in each corner since the panel will be able to sag at the center of the sides if you push on it. Instead you need a post of each corner and one to two posts somewhere along the sides depending on how long the sides are. You only need to screw in the panel at the four corners like normal though.
This is my plan:
Acrylic (I bought some kind of hardened acrylic which is stronger than regular plexiglass and looks exactly the same) layer on top witha 24mm hole for the joystick and 30mm holes for the snap-ins.
Artwork layer
1/4ââ hardboard layer (with a rectangle cut out for the JLF mounting plate to fit in and 30mm holes with tabs in the side for the snap-ins)
1/4ââ hardboard layer (with a square-ish shape cut out for the joystick mounting plate to be screwed into and a square cut out around the button holes)
These layers will sit on top of some supports to stay up and sturdy.
hereâs a quick pic:
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/928/joystickplans03kz0.jpg
Thoughts?
Hey i got a stick im trying to mod its a Hori Fighting stick for the playstaion, i was going to just chant the buttons out for some better ones and maybe the joy stick, but when i opened it up i seen that the buttons are sodderd ot the bord, is there any safe way to swap the buttons out?
Also i looked at the joy stick in side, doesnt seem to be interchangeable, any info would help
it looks like this but with a diffrent face plate
Only way to swap them out is to desolder the buttons. Then for the futureâs sake of modding, solder wires from the connections to the new buttons.
i recently decided to change the artwork on my MAS and had a few questions i hope you guys could help with.
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the MAS originally didnât have any kind of lexan/plexiglass on top⌠the artwork was printed on some sort of paper, laminated, and glued on. i was thinking about adding a layer of lexan on top of the artwork⌠would this work?
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my friend (tingboy) thatâs putting in new happ parts for this stick tells me that if i apply a layer of lexan itâll change the stickâs deadspace(not quite sure what to call this). is this a problem? is there a certain size i need to cut the hole for the stick to accommodate the raise in âlevelâ of the faceplate?
Iâm just worried about the mounting height. I donât think itâll affect it by too much, but meh, Iâll let the experts chime in =P
what do u guys put on the bottom of your sticks? i want something nice and grippy to prevent scratches on my table and also to keep my stick from moving while playing.
As a quick fix I stuck some rubber seam tape under mine at the corners and middle. Hardware stores stock it. Come to think of it, bicycle tire tube patches would work, theyâre already adhesive and a good size/shape .
The rubber tape worked so well i just left it there.
Cheers
On my sticks I put some sort of small foam pad in each corner. I have no idea where I got the pads, I just found them in my basement from who knows how long ago, maybe 10 years ago or so. The pads seem very similar to that craft foam stuff you can get in sheets at craft stores, only they have an adhesive on one side, although I glued them on with expoy anyway.
What might work well is if you use a normal panel for the bottom and then just glue on a piece of those non-slip mats you can get for under rugs that prevent the rugs from sliding around on hardwood floors. Doing it this way would allow you to replace the bottom panel easily if you ever decide that you dont like the non-slip thing on there, where as if you add the pads to the frame itself then you would have to scrap them off if you wanted a change.
Personally though, I play with my stick on my lap so I have never had the need to add padding on the bottom.
This stick Saulabi for ps2 works with the pelican.
However when I replaced their terrible crown stick with my Fanta it does not work with the pelican adapters anymore on the ps3 or pc, however the stick itself works at t5dr arcade cabinets and on the ps2. Fanta, gersung switches, aka green korean stick.
The start and select are stuck ON and it does not respond to the stick inputs.
So I am wondering about the ps3 version of this stick.
Does it have the same shitty crown with leaf switches?
Does it still have the extra 4 screw holes for the slightly larger fanta sticks?
If I plug a fanta in does it work on the ps3?
edit: In case anyone is wondering
It fits in your lap easily, so when sitting crosslegged on the floor itâs very comfortable. Itâs kind of weak feeling plastic compared to wood or metal(t5 10th anni), but it is also very light and the button layout is a very natural placement for my hands.
But when sitting on a stool you canât spread your legs out at all or else it wonât be supported like the wider flat bottom sticks are. Kaneâs stick or t5 10th anni have a much wider base and are more comfortable to use at the arcades on stools.
Actually⌠the custom stuff is cheaper than going to Loweâs or Home Depot⌠the only difference is you have to buy in bulk⌠enough to build about 20 sticks.
I recently replace the rubber feet on my mas with some heavy duty ones on some old computer towers I had. They were comparable tothe feet on the SFAC stick. My mas ones wore down to the screws and scratched the heck out of my cousinâs table. HA. Oh well. A lot of old electronics have these and they are often held by screws. I also heard you can buy rubber feet from a hardware store.
Project box setup
I am currently in negotiations with a possible customer. He wants a PS3, GameCube and Dreamcast connection to a single stick. I am having problems getting him to understand the need for project boxes to make this work properly. Is it possible to have all three pads inside the case and only have the cables sticking out? If so how does one go about making it work? I am having difficulty using the forum and thread search functions. Maybe I am using the wrong search terms.
Any and all help is appreciated.
TTFN
Kaytrim
I know some time ago Toodles explained how to have two controllers hooked up at the same time without one of the PCBs causing the other to lag, but I dont remember what topic it was in and I am not sure if it would work with three controllers. But one thing for sure is that it is somewhere on this forum. I know it had something to do with making sure that both PCBs got power but I dont remember anything beyond that. Maybe he can explain it again.