Use lexan, it won’t shatter like acrylics.
I have a stick that already has a hole drilled for a Sanwa stick but I want to put a Fanta in there instead. I’m pretty sure the case is 3/4" MDF so what would be the best tool to use to widen the hole? Are there any good tools to use that aren’t electric, like a wood chisel (I hear these don’t work so well with MDF)?
I also need to route the top of the case for the Fanta but I live in a small apartment and do not have access to power tools myself and if I bought them I would have no where to work or put them. Is there a place that will do this for me, such as a Home Depot or other hardware store? Or is there also a non-electric alternative?
If I need to widen an existing hole just a tad, I tend to use a rasp. There are curved ones designed to work in holes. For any substantial adjustment, I re-drill or rout.
The strength of wood is in its grain. Since particle and fiberboards lack this, it can sometimes be tricky to use hand tools on them. A router would be ideal, but with patience you could get away without one. What you’d lose is precision.
I haven’t heard of hardware stores offering a routing service.
So basically I need to find someone with a router or I’m kinda screwed? That’s what I figured just needed some confirmation, thanks.
Get a hole saw.
ok, i modded a doa4 stick with a seimitsu ls-32-01 recently. now, the stick is a little bit too big and there isn’t enough clearance inside. i got some spacers so i can put the bottom panel back on and still give the stick room to move. problem is, obviously, with the spacers added, theres a gap between the bottom panel and the casing. i still want the entire stick closed up so it doesnt get dust inside, or other random crap. is there anything i can do or use for lining to fill the void? like rubber lining or something?
if pictures are needed for what im talking about, ill post
More questions before I start building my stick!
Really really dumb basic woodworking shit: What do all of you accomplished builders use, tool-wise, to cut such perfect shapes for your pieces? I was thinking I’d just trace the outline, use a skillsaw to cut the rectangle a hair too big, and sand the last little bit. Is this a good plan?
Creating a huge gaping hole: Is a drill press a good choice as a tool for drilling the big mounting holes in the top? Should I be worried about this big-hole-drilling business splitting pine, fraying MDF, or cracking lexan?
Wood material: On that note, is using pine for my first building attempt going to be a nightmare? I see MDF is always recommended to beginners; is it easier to work with? Will pine be more or less durable? Are knots and grain that much of a challenge? I was thinking of using the 3/4"-thick sheets for furniture construction.
Vertical depth inside box needed to mount Happ parts: If I’m using a Comp stick and horizontal microswitch buttons (with a PSX PCB), will having three inches of height space inside be deep enough to fit my parts? The top will likely be 3/4" thickness. I double-checked the diagrams from the Happ website and it looks like it’ll be fine but I really wanted to double-check so I don’t end up screwing myself over with unforeseen surprises. (That is the most unexpected kind of surprise!)
As usual, thanks a ton for any and all help.
So I got my parts and am using 1/2’’ pine for my stick. Looking at my buttons (sanwa screw-ins), I noticed that the “base” of the button isn’t long enough to extend pass the bottom of the pine. My question is, how do people ususally solve for this problem?
I’m thinking about doing it this way (using Timoe’s pics again. What can I say, he knows his ish, hope ya don’t mind :wgrin:)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=66008.0;attach=75586;image
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=66008.0;attach=75499;image
Any other suggestions? I will prolly go with this approach but am open to other ideas.
Thanks!
EDIT: I haven’t started to drill the holes for the buttons yet so it might fit in just fine but by just looking at my parts, it doesn’t look like it will. Could be wrong though.
If you have access to one, or plan on building lots of sticks or other woodworking projects, a sliding compound miter saw is absolutely PERFECT for basic sticks. 10" is fine.
A drill press is ideal. You won’t split pine, and “fraying” MDF doesn’t mean anything - just lightly sand off the corners. Lexan is pretty crack-resistant, but even Plexigas can be cut well on a drill press (though you might not want to use a hole saw for it).
MDF is very stable, dimensionally-speaking (i.e straight). MDF may suffer a little more damage than pine if the box is dropped on a corner, but I would go with MDF anyway.
3/4" is overkill for a stick.
3" of internal height is perfectly fine.
I needed Google image search to figure out what it is you were talking about! I’m almost positive that this monsterous contraption was a boss from Mega Man.
You’re a saint, Green. This thread would be dead without you, and so would my project.
For the screw ins, you really have to route the wood down to the proper thickness so you can screw the buttons in.
Not sure about the snap in ones, you might just be able to push those in and have them stay, but I’m not entirely certain.
Hey, can one of you guys tell me how to get the “e-clip” off a seimitsu? I don’t have a tool for that. I bought one from TRNG, but I can’t take that clip off.
Take that ugly bitch out of your avatar and you might get an answer.
next time its a ban, troll.
^ ignoring that stupid fuck comoesa answer
seimitsus e-clips are a pain to remove and i personally cant remove it with out damaging it 
HEY! 
editZ: ohh not me
hes banned now :3
I got a wiring problem. I just finished my first soldering job and everything works fine except for the directions. If I leave the stick in neutral, it will hold down on its own and none of the other directions will work. If I hold up it registers as neutral, and then left and right will work. Down and up don’t work at all.
The only thing I notice that I did different from other sticks I’ve seen is that I added an extra ground wire between the directions. I made a complete circle with the ground that connects all the directions together but most sticks I’ve seen start from say up, then left, down, right. I added a ground from right back to up.
Would getting rid of one of the extra grounds solve the problem? If not what can I do?
post of pic of your wiring, sounds like the down is getting bridged to the ground somehow, could be the analog stick too.
I cut the extra ground wire between the directions and that did nothing. The main ground wire for the directions from the PCB is connected to :u: but I think I may have reversed the ground wire and the other.
So the daisy chain for the directions might not be connected to the ground wire, would this explain why I would have to hold :u: for :l: and :r: to work or why it holds :d: by itself?
I would post a picture but the wiring is SO messy I don’t think it would help at all. It’s also a RedOctane stick PCB so that might complicate matters as well.
Was that directed at me?
Lets see a picture of your beautiful face, homegirl.