A few questions for pro/intermediate builders who use Sanwa parts:
When do you use snap-in buttons, and when do you use screw-in?
I’m looking at the JLF-TP-8T stick since word is it’s the best stick on LizardLick for fighters; is there any reason to hold out for something else (until LL gets new stock or the Akihabara shop reopens?).
snap ins were made to be used in/work with metal panels in arcade cabs.
so its pretty much all preference, honestly i just tried screw ins the other day and i rather use those from now on.
Dreaded fist doesn’t make sticks anymore and byrdo who makes the most beautiful sticks i have ever seen hasn’t responded to my email i sent him months ago but his shits always soldout anyways so i would appreciate a link or someones name who could build me a custom sanwa stick for use on xbox and 360.
yea i dont get it, i mean you if you are new to the board you may not see it, but people who’ve been members for 3+ years still ask where to buy custom sticks:wow:
is the trading post like invisible or something? its like’s its own little community.
deadfrog, i think its the 1st “the official custom arcade sticks thread” its between page 20 and 25
someone posted the official u.s capcom layout its quite large roughly 3000x3000 pixels. but i dont know what size to print it at so its a 1:1 scale
if someone can hook it up with a 1:1 scale of a happ template it’d be greatly appreciated.
My distance between stick & buttons is 3-3/4" but 4" should be fine. Between all buttons I have 1-5/8" distance, horizontal and vertical. I think 1-3/8" might be a bit too close.
Well Happ buttons have a radius of about 5/8" including the lip on the top. So if you make it 1-3/8" you will only have 1/8" between buttons which seems pretty close to me. 1.5" seems more reasonable to me. On my own stick the button distance ended up being about 1-9/16" which is assentially 1.5" and I did the spacing by just seeing what felt right.
So 1-1/2" may not be the official distance but it feels comfortable to me.
Stick distance would be fine at 4". Personally I made mine at 5" and it feels fine. I think 3-1/2" is probably as close as you would want to go.
I actually used that, and the hole diameters as a reference, and measured in mspaint and broke out a calculator to get my lengths. I think the scale was 200 pixels = 1 inch.
I guess I just wanted to know if this is the layout that all the nice cabs seem to use. It’s hard to properly imagine the feel when you’re staring at a drawing on a sheet of paper! :lol:
Oh also… for a 3/4" thick wood top, will a 1 and 1/8th inch diameter hole be wide enough for a Competition joystick?
Not sure if you are looking to mount a Happ or not but my Happ competition is mounted on a 5/16" top panel with a 1-1/8" hole and that gives me 3/16" space when the stick is tilted.
If someone feels like getting out a protractor to figure out the angle of the tilt on the stick then you could easily calculate the smallest hole needed for a 3/4" top panel. Or if you have some extra wood, just make some test holes and see how it fits, thats what I did on mine.
Just wondering, do more people prefer the stock square restricter or the octogonal restricter on the JLF’s?
Btw, I’m a first time custom stick user, so I haven’t had experience really with either, but I have a square restricter in mine. I’ve heard it is easier to hit diagonals with a square restricter, but I just wanted to get some other opinions. Also, if someone could list some common pros and cons of both the octogonal and square restricters, it would be appreciated.
hi guys, first time on the forums. im about to purchase the official dreamcast arcade stick and read the link at the beginning about modding it. i was just wandering would it be possible to convert it to work on a playstation 2. ive been hunting around for a dreamcast to playstation 2 converter but ive had no luck as such.