My $15 15/30W radioshack iron works like a charm. I keep it at 15W for PCB work.
Just a few pre-flight checks before I make my first attempts at both modding a stick and building a stick…
A lame question about Happ joysticks:
What diameter should I make the (main) hole for a Competition stick? I can’t believe I couldn’t find this on some webpage somewhere. I’m getting the idea that specifics don’t matter for this one, but I wanted to be sure. Can someone offer me a rough guideline?
A dumb question about Happ buttons:
If I have a 1-4 Player Start Pushbutton, will a Pushbutton with Horizontal Microswitch (1.30 bezel and .87 plunger) be the same size and concavity? The “Associated Products” link from the first to the second page makes me think so. These two pictures 1 2 make me even more certain, but I’m friggin’ paranoid about it.
I’d like to use the little man button as Start and a plain white button of the exact same shape as Select. Will I instead have to get an Ulitmate Pushbutton (1.30 bezel and .90 plunger) for that? I don’t want a vertical microswitch!
A really dumb question about Happ buttons:
The measurements are decimals of inches, correct? This picture and this picture both indicate the hole for a button should be 1.13
What kind of drill bit do I want for a 1.13" hole? 9/8th’s or something?
A really dumb question about Sanwa buttons:
So they make 30mm and 24mm buttons. This is the size of the hole I need to drill, right? i.e. 30mm and 24mm are the diameters of the buttons’ shafts, correct?
I read in another thread that for 24mm buttons you should use a 15/16th’s drill bit. 24mm is 0.94488189" but 15/16th’s of an inch is 0.9375". Won’t the hole be too small? Which drill bit should I use for a 24mm?
…Which drill bit should I use for a 30mm?
A connoiseur’s inquiry concerning Sanwa buttons:
So apparently a OBSF-30-RG lasts five times longer than a plain OBSF-30. I know I like the feel of the OBSF-30, but I’ve never touched an RG before. Do they feel different? I’ve never read or heard anything that would directly suggest this, but I wondered simply because nobody seems to use the RG’s.
If the RG’s feel the same, I don’t understand why nobody shells out the extra cost to spare themselves from four out of five break-downs. (Of course if the RG’s feel worse, I wouldn’t want to use them even if they were bullet-proof and I was being assaulted by machine gun fire in a button factory.)
Thanks a ton for any and all help.
Depends on the thickness of the wood, but 1-1/8" and 1-3/16" should both work.
I can’t tell you for sure, but Happ would really be stupid not to use the same molds to make all their regular concave buttons.
1-1/8" is 1.125 inches, which fits Happ buttons. If you want to do both Jap and Happ buttons, get a 1-3/16" hole saw/Forstner bit.
30mm uses 1-3/16". 24mm uses 15/16".
Hi guys, newbie needing help here:
I got a stick donated to me by generous SRK member doughboy. He said the start button wasn’t working. I opened the stick up and neither the start or select buttons were even wired. I thought “easy”.
So I am not sure how to wire the start button since I haven’t found a picture of the PCB I have. The joystick and buttons worked before I did anything.
Then I noticed on all the buttons are all chained to each other via the “not open” prongs and the “common” connections are wired straight to the PCB.
But everything seemed to be working (I think, I didn’t test too in depth) and so I wired the start button by copying what the previous guy who wired it did: I soldered the common lead on the button to the spot on the controller that already had solder on it and said “start” (the bottom of the circular connection) and then soldered the “normally on” connection of the button to one of the posts where the buttons are daisychained together.
Now the buttons that are already soldered still work, but when I press the start button the PS2 says “please attach a dual shock controller”, as if I unplugged the joystick.
My questions:
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Why is it doing this?
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Why was it wired with the normally open prongs on the buttons chained together anyways, I thought the commons were supposed to be chained together?
Bump, help anyone?
Sounds like a regular 'ol clusterfuck. I would make a thread about it, you’ll get more attention that way. Not many people look to this thread to solve problems.
Airthrow: Pictures would help.
Thanks a ton for the reply, Green.
I’ll try my RG question in the The Sanwa and Seimitsu FAQ thread.
lol i pm’d you the same shit:looney:
Hah, just got it too.
I have a couple more questions… this time about woodworking and case design!
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Any specific material recommendations for a beginner’s first stick? I hear good things about 3/4" MDF. Shiro mentioned he uses 1/2" particle board. Am I just going to cause myself grief by trying anything that actually resembles real (grained) wood?
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I don’t think I want to paint the box. What’s the best (transparent) way to finish the wood? Some kind of varnish? Essentially, I’m hoping to add a little protection (water-proofing) to the wood, but I’d still like it to look the same. A little gloss and shine is just fine.
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I was hoping I could make the bottom of the stick the one side that is easily removable for repairs, with the others being permanently fastened. Is this a terrible idea for replacing parts later? I think this is what most builders do but I wanted to double-check.
deadfrog
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3/4 MDF is very good for you.
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There are glossproducts but I do not know if it will be so good if you spray it on bare MDF, you should check with your supplier and ask him.
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Correct, that is mostly done :).
Personally i put hinges on the front of the of the box. Well at the top to be more spacific. I dont like having to open it form the bottom. to it makes it harder to get at the joystick etc and it jsuts limites space. opening it form the top and having it come out like in the arcad e makes it much easier.
1 question i have here for stick makers is. When centering your stick (oh yes i said that) what do you use to make sure its level? I use one of them level marker ruler things. But i always have to have someone on the other side centering it while im leveling it./ one the odd ocasion it fucks up and i have to redo it. It becomes really tiering, so is there any easier way to get threw this?
Shiro_420
That is true about the hinges, personally I do not fiddle inside the stick that much so for me it is ok for the bottom to be mounted off.
Dunno what you mean by centering your stick though, do you have any pics off your sticks (it`s rims, I know)?
the sticks i have are happ ulti’s. when i mean centering, I’m talking about makeing sure the stick is dead center in the hole. (Ya i said that)
THen i use a level on the top of the stick onside the box to make sure its level… that help at all?
anyone got an extra pre-soldered ps2 board laying around, that they are willing to sell me?? working condition
Try to keep the thread as a gallery.
X
Does the same apply to for both Sanwa and Happ sticks? I’m going to try to work on Sanwa/Semitsu based sticks and I’m trying to gather all of the info I need about materials/size and such right now. They seem more complicated to mount sticks with than Happs are. :I
Gwyrgyn Blood
Added you on AIM.
Guess I missed you, I was at work until around 7pm today. :x
Any tips on ultra easy to drill plastic or anything?I dont have industry grade tools and shit.All I have is a spade bit and a drill.So what plastic can I use?I got acrylite and that shit shattered to bits.If i didnt have glasses it couldve even taken my eye out.So what do u guys recommend??