in Japanese cabs, many control panels have stick mounts for Sanwas. they act like spacers since the Sanwas will be too tall without them. the drawback of this is that Seimitsus won’t mount on these spacers, and these spacers aren’t easily detachable. they made S mounts so that you can mount the Seimitsus on these spacers as well.
here’s a quick drawing.
hay guys just want to comfirm that 3/4" is ussually the thickness of the top panel for happ parts 
would be great if people can confirm thanks alot
Best height for Happ is 1/2"-5/8". You can acheive this in 3/4" wood by routing out a 1/4" recess for the 5/8" depth including lexan or 1/2" without. Rout a 3/8" recess for the 1/2" depth including lexan.
Modifying Agetec
Looking at the http://www.tychom.org/stick/ webpage, all it really says is that you need a Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y and you’re set. My questions are this:
What parts will I need to buy to make this work? Obviously the Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y, but it says stuff like “cable not included, JLF-H sold separately”, etc. which makes it seem like there is more needed than meets the eye.
Tychom mentions drilling, shaving, etc. but is there any soldering or circuitry involved? I think it would help me to know considering I’m not very technically inclined, and I’ve never constructed/modded a stick before.
I’m only interested in modding the stick, not the buttons.
Thanks for your responses guy.
I have some wood cutting questions. I can make flat sticks no prob, I wanna make my sticks slanted and have no idea of how to make the 4 sides all with the same slant. I want the back of the stick to be around 5 inches high and the front 4 inches high. Basically an inch drop from the back to the front. Oh yeah the width would be 10inches in width by 15 inches in lenght. Does anyone know off hand what the angles would be???
I was gonna ask this same question cuz Ive only done all digital PS pads and DC pads, never a PS DS 1 wich I did yesterday. Although I did leave the analouge sticks in place even though it was a tight fit. the poster below this answered my question.
Yes the cable is not included. You can either solder to the pins where the connector would go or if I remember correctly, Im not sure if I used a spare lying around or if the agetec stick has a connector already. I leaning more towards that it has its own connector. Anyways wire the connector to the JLF pinout. I forgot what it is since its been so long since I modded my agetec.
So essentially, I need to buy both the stick and the cable and i’m all set, right?
metrock: All you need to do is remember your old trig functions. You have all the values that you need. For example:
http://www.math.com/tables/algebra/functions/trig/functions.htm
The triangle you’re looking at on your stick is the one formed from the slanted top (which in this case is the hypoteneuse), the 10" width of your stick (which is the adjacent side) and the 1" difference in height of the front and back pieces (5"- 4").
This is all with the assumption with the angle you want is theta as positioned in the FIRST diagram in the link. Not the second.
Anyway, the formula you want is tangent of angle theta = opposite/adjacent.
That means the tangent of the angle you want = 1/10.
Then solve for theta using your calculator. You get the angle to be 5.71 (rounded).
Hope this helps. I could have just told you the answer but this way you can solve it for yourself in the future. Be careful when you cut though. When you cut the front piece you’re going to start cutting at 4" and cut outwards so that the other side will be slightly more than 4". For the back piece you’ll start your cut at 5" but cut inwards so that your is slightly short than 5" on the other side. The side pieces would be cut at the same angle and the endpoints of these cuts should be at the exact heights you just got from cutting the front and back piece.
I know that’s rather confusing to explain on the internet, but I hope it made sense.
~Paik
could someone explain to me why most stickbuilders bore out the area where the stick is installed?
so it wont sit too low when you play. If you mount on thin wood or metal then you dont do it.
like wow you i just wanted to make a custom stick and i find this off a google serch thanks for the info guy
OK thanks Paik. I would remeber my old trig functions if I had ever taken trig. LOL. Yeah i can prolly figure out the new answer if the ocasion should arise. Really I was a little confused at first but after reading a hundred or 2 times Im getting it. Thanks again.
http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/5564/ggtemplatewe9.png
http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/5564/ggtemplatewe9.png
This is what I’m working with so far.
This is gonna be my first stick, so I hope that its gonna come out half as decent as all the others I’ve been seeing on this site. Going to be using Seimitsu clear parts, and a box I’m going to make myself. Its pretty cheap so far. $45 for all the buttons, stick, and shipping. I’m buying from Akihabara’s Place, unless somebody here could sell me the parts I want.
Other than that, this is gonna be an Xbox stick and I’ll update as I go. Its a pretty good project for a 15 year old. ;x
I’ve read a few tutorials on various sites but I still feel quite unsure of exactly what is required to make an arcade stick.
Am I right in thinking that, basically, you could just take an Xbox pad, soldering iron off the existing wires and then just attach your own buttons and stick with fresh solder. This would then be placed into either a custom or a pre-existing case, with the original connecting wire coming out of the back and into the Xbox.
Assuming that I have the skill to achieve this, is that all I’d have to do? Just buy a 3rd party Xbox pad, 8 buttons and a stick, miscellaneous parts like screws and maybe extra wires, tools such as the soldering iron, solder, screwdriver and wire stripper, and then some shitty arcade stick to loot the case…?
First, you need an xbox pad. You just take the pad apart and you keep the green pcb with the wire attached to it (the one that plugs into the system).
Next, you need a joystick and buttons, then a case to put it all in (and artwork for the case).
Besides this, you just need tools: soldering iron, solder, quick disconnects, screwdriver, etc…
say I got some quick questions…
what’s the safest way to mount a PCB to the bottom of the box??? I’m sure you could drill some holes through the PCB and secure it with screws, but I’m afraid that I would fuck up the PCB…
Also, what type of wood would one recommend for the box??? Looking for something light and durable…
how hard would it be for installation for the stick if I choose a metal top plate??? I’m plan on using a sanwa jlf-tp series stick, maybe with a mounting plate IF it’s easier to install, whether it be wood or metal…
what programs to use for custom artwork???
Photoshop…
or MS paint if you can’t afford it like me:rofl:
There’s a lot of methods to mount the PCB. Screws in it will work fine as long as you are drilling where there are no copper traces. Or, you can get some of these. Great service and shipping from him btw.
For wood, use any of the following:
MDF- Easily cut, sanded and shaped but a bit heavy.
Hardwood plywood- Probably one of the best woods if you get the sanded kind. Very strong and stable. Holds screws wayyyy better than MDF.
Poplar- easily shaped and very light. Good for painted sticks.
Baltic birch plywood- Consider it like hardwood plywood but even better. Very smooth and the innerplys are pretty much void free. My current fav.
I don’t use metal top plates on my sticks except for the buttons, so not sure there.
Photoshop, paint shop pro, whatever works for you.
A few questions:
24mm is the standard but you can go smaller. Since 24mm isn’t really a standard for us in the US, you can go with like 22mm which you should find more easily.
I’m guessing any builder would be willing to build you just a case. I personally haven’t done just a case request but wouldn’t have a problem. I know that finkle does frequently. So just find a builder you like and ask them for a quote on just a case.
~Paik
Sorry if this has been coverd before (I did search) but has anybody got info on making a custom joystick for the SNES ?
Also is there any UK based retailers of Arcade parts ?
Thanks