All my concave buttons (happs) are the same size. The blacks, whites, reds, yellows, and blues.
the blacks and whites don’t protrude a bit higher? Hmmm. I’ll have to check my source…
I get em from tornado terry.
Thanks though, rotendo for the response. And thanks final cut. Where did you get your buttons from?
The ones I have were provided by Albert_C here on the forums. I dunno where he got them from, but he says they are happ. I just ordered some Black comps from Tornado Terry, actually.
S-Mount, wiring seimitsu
I have a question passed on by a friend who doesn’t know what to do with his seimitsu stuff.
First, he has an S-Mount for his stick. What is this good for? For building custom sticks, is this practical to use? I have personally never even seen one, save online images.
Secondly, about wiring the seimitsu stick:
"my seimitsu stick has 5 prongs but doesn’t mention which prong is for what direction/ground should i just follow the inlay on it?"
Is it the same as a JLF from sanwa? I still don’t know what to tell him. any help would be appreciated.
That’s an interesting method. What did you use to drill it? Does it sit still during play?
Peace.
NW
yeah it stands at multiple levels which is one of my needs- and i used a regular 1 1 1/8 drill
Just noticed that the CD_Vision’s site has my 2p 8-button layout I made like 4 years ago :lol: . Wanted to ask if anyone has any sanwa sticks or buttons they are willing to sell. I need 2 sticks and 12 buttons. I’m making a cabinet for Evo and need these parts. Thank you.
-Tushar Chopra
yo, anyone got some good sites to order parts from??? I already looked at akirashop and the sites mention at the beginning of this thread…mainly looking for convex buttons that have horizontal microswitches…don’t like the look of competition buttons =/
also, just wondering…say I have buttons that require to be mounted on the PCB(ala sanwa/seimitsu) If I don’t want to do that, can I wire them instead to the PCB??? Just would like to know so in case I fuck up a trace, I don’t have to worry about making a ghetto connection…
Hey Dark Man, yeah, you can just use a wire to connect them to the PCB which is a whole lot better. I have a hori stick that I modded and all the hori buttons for it were actually modded to the PCB. It was a pain removing the solder to get the bitches off. Thanx.
-See Ya!!!
say, I got a quick question…Is there any way you can make switches on a button LESS sensitive??? on my old Namco stick, one of the buttons is hella sensitive, and I don’t wanna replace cuz then I will have to replace the rest cuz colors won’t match…
anyone know how to mod the xbox 360 stick?
I’m attempting to hack a 3rd party DS2 -style pad. I’ve read this thread and understand that DS2 pads are reputed to be very difficult to hack–but this pad was cheap, and since it seems to have only one common ground, I thought that I could avoid the problems I’ve heard about
(for example those detailed in http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle...laystation.htm)
I wired the thing up last night, and all seemed well after a cold test, so I plugged it in to the PS2. Everything works without a hitch–so long as the game being played does not support analog control, and this obviously does me little good. When I put in a game with analog support–say, Alpha Anth., it behaves as though I’m rapidly wiggling the analog sticks. It’s perversely gratifying watching Chun Li twitch like she’s having an apoplectic fit–but only for so long.
This pad was attractive to me for hacking because it had a separate PCB for the analog sticks, and I thought I could save space by cutting it free from the main board, so I did so. My fear is that in so doing I’ve somehow ruined the PCB, and that this is responsible for my problems now.
Any advice would be appreciated. If I figure this out, I’ll post the how-to on the pad-hacking thread (be good to have an easy to hack DS2 pad).
It’s usually not advised to separate the analogs for this very reason. I’m not sure why you would find the need to remove them because the space saved wouldn’t be that much and would only be important if you were making a project box or for some reason had very little internal room in your case.
In either case, I honestly think that you’ve basically ruined it. You could try reconnecting the analog section. That would be your best bet.
~Paik
I’m sure that Per could do it.
Edit: I mean theRealNeoGeo
Paik: Thanks for the quick reply. This is my first time building, so this is but the latest link in a chain of mishaps. A lesson learned.
Why a PS2 pad? If it’s only gonna be for PS2/1 and no converter use just grab a PS1 sony digital from ebgames for $2. Or a SFAC pad. For converter use try to find a PS1 dual shock.
my stick pcb is still dead,
dunno if anyone would be willing to replace it for me.
also change the stick and maybe buttons,
think i have a Happ stick and buttons, dont remember much,
was made last year…
but then say getting sanwa buttons wouldnt fit in the holes…
or im just thinking of buying a new stick altogether.
I want to replace the sensors on the stick of my Sega Virtua Stick for the PS2. For some weird reason, I’m having problems doing motions and whatnot. Does anyone know what I should buy and where I could get it, please forgive me as I am a total n00b at modding sticks.
Hay guys i have a quick question and wanted to post in this thread before starting one.
looking to build a happ custom stick 
alot of arcade sticks in aus are happ i belive so i thought id do this before i give another brand a try.
i wanted to ask what the minimum hight required for a happ stick would be?
also can some one please confirm what the happ competition joystick hole should be and what the button holes should be.
and the last question
if iam mounting the compeition stick underneth the MDF as most people do what is the correct thickness of MDF i need in order to make the Happ stick the standard hight?
Thanks alot
The minimum height for a happ competition joystick is somewhere around 2 3/4"… the website has the measurements but I cannot connect at the moment.
Joystick & button holes are both 1 1/8"
and usually the panel is 3/4" for happ parts, from what I can tell.