Hi Toodles,
I’ve just sent you mail, I just opened the my last PS3 Cthulhu to make a set of stick but the “O” /Circle is not working( no respond coming from it) . any chance to fix this? the rest that I bought from you works fine.
Hi Toodles,
I’ve just sent you mail, I just opened the my last PS3 Cthulhu to make a set of stick but the “O” /Circle is not working( no respond coming from it) . any chance to fix this? the rest that I bought from you works fine.
Just got my Cthulhus and Imps in for a dual mod. I looked at other dual modding guides and could never get mine to work. After I decided to actually read the instructions that came with the products, everything worked great. Second one was a breeeeeze. Thanks Toodles. :->
yay its the 15th now! ive requested for 3 sets of mc’s and imps to do the dual mods… now i just acknowlegdement so i can py
Toodles is a beast for these boards. I’m gonna order one as soon as Lizardlick opens back up so I can finally mod this FS3 I’ve had lying around.
Hi Toodles :D!
Been waiting till the 15th like it was my own birthday :party:
Id like to order a preassambled cthulhu board… (im from holland)
btw do you sell other stuff that is related to making a ps3 stick like quickdisconnects etc…
like to hear from you soon,
grtz
hello was wondering if its was ok to place an order, since it was the 15 like you posted? if so i would like.
Assembled MC Cthulhu board, including screw terminals and USB jack: $45
Imp kit: $9
PSX extension cable: $5
Gamecube extension cable: $5
Xbox1 extension cable: $5
No matter what thanks for your time hope to hear from you.
Working late on my final project for microprocessors. Yuck. My presentation tomorrow represents the actual end of the semester for me.
I’m going to update the first post with a sort of ordering instructions; I dont need a PM or an email, just a list of what you want in the paypal. I’ve got tons of stock, including new PSX and GC cables. Please understand that orders will be put together over the weekend, and the soonest anything will go out is in Monday’s mail.
Have at it. I know there’s a lot of questions that need addressing, and I’ll try to get them as soon as possible.
Good to have you back.
Just placed my order. Thanks again for this awesome service you provide, Toodles. My 360 TE Stick can soon finally be used on my PS3.
…Which is a great thing since I don’t have a 360, and I want to use the friggin’ thing!
thank god you’re back, i am getting bombed with requests
quick question to dual mod one of my 360 se or te sticks to work on ps3 all i need it PS3 Only Cthulhu kit: $20 or do i need this Assembled PS3 Only Cthulhu board, including screw terminals and USB jack: $40… sorry im a nub at this an does any need no soildering at all? thanks in advance.
Depends. The MC Cthulhu is only 5 bucks more and it’ll allow your stick to work on a ton of consoles. For the least ammount of soldering, pre-assembled is a good way to go, but sometimes it can actually take a bit longer as you have to get the wires into the screw-down terminals and depending on the guage of wire you got, it can be kinda hard. No matter which way you go, you’ll wind up needing to solder something.
Try searching for Bomberman’s SE Cthulhu mod. It has all the info you need and will work as a TE guide as well.
I placed my order for an unassembled Cthulhu (PC/PS3).
What’s the recommended wire gauge size to be used on this board?
I recently ordered a Xbox360 TE Stick and was thinking about ordering a
Toodles Assembled Cthulhu PC/PS3 Board from here: http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/boards.shtml
to make it a dual modded stick
Couple of Questions:
On a PSC BC Version will I be able to use this with PS1/PS2 games?
Will I have to solder wires with this assembled kit?
Where can I get PS3 Faceplate since I mainly use the PS3?
How difficult is this to perform this mod from Easy/Intermediate/Advanced?
Hi toodles,
I know you’re really busy, but what about the broken PS3 Cthulhu, do it send it to you and get a replacement? it’s stil brand new but the Circle “O” does not respond, I’ve tested and change the cable, use different ground , but still not working, the rest is fine except this board, I bought 6 of these of you about 1 month ago, only opened this one to install it to a new box, but no HK (Circle).
what is the Process?
I just received my Madcatz SE stick for the XBOX 360 and I want to dual mod it for use with both PS3 and 360.
What should I order from Toodles or any other reseller?
Apparently I need an Imp kit and an MC Cthulu board, right?
Do I need anything else in order to add PS3 support to my stick?
Should I prefer the assembled or the unassembled Cthulu?
Thanks in advance and I know that these questions have been answered before but I need a confirmation, just to be 100% sure that I am buying what I should.
Alright, let’s see how many of these I can plow through. My final project presentation is over, and Im totally done with school until next semester.
I’m going to try to plow through the thread and PM backlog. If you have a question that’s not answered here, go ahead and post it back up.
I dont know what to tell you; the Cthulhu doesn’t do anything that could affect the headset. Maybe it’s something easy like you never plugged the jack back into the SE pcb, but there’s nothing the Cthulu can possibly do to interfere with it. If you really wanted to check, remove the Cthulhu.
None that I know of. I’m curious myself.
And you’re currently my highest priority. If you have a multimeter handy, and have it removed from the stick, I’d like to check a few things, specifically voltages at a few points and resistances between a few points. How comfortable are you with a meter?
I’m glad it’s working for you. In general, use a thread for tech questions; I don’t mind PMs so much for problems with stuff gotten from me even though a thread is preffered, but about stuff that isn’t even a responsibility of mine like 360 pads, well, they have a tendency to get overlooked. In general, I don’t support the Cthulhu in a dual PCB mod unless its in a madcatz fight stick. I frequently answer questions about it in the ‘2 pcb’s’ thread, but it’s not something I consider myself responsible for.
If it’s not listed with a price in the first post, I don’t sell it. Pretty much my boards and some extension cables is all I carry.
Either can work; it’s entirely up to you. If you’re scared of soldering, then an assembled board would allow you to do a dual mod with somewhere between ‘No modding’ (two USB cables coming out the back of the stick) and ‘Light soldering’ (DPDT switch or Imp board for a single USB cable coming out the back).
If you’re comfortable with soldering, then totally get the kit. Board would cost half as much, and you won’t need the screw terminals or USB jack because you’re comfortable with soldering.
So I guess you need to weight any fear of soldering and possiblity of borking it, versus the $20. That’s your call; either option can and does work.
If you’re worried about getting the right wire, the bigger question is what gauge of wire does you QD’s support. FInd that out, and get the stranded version of that gauge.
When in doubt, 24 gauge stranded is my preference, but the board itself can use a wide range of sides easily.
yes it’s in the anti static bag already, I am new to the multimeter but I can try, what do I have to measure? volt and Res between which point please
thanks for the quick response, even though you are really swamped with work, really appreciate this.
Got my order in - can’t wait!
I’m going to assume that the cthulhu is outside of the stick, just the bare board with no wires, and a USB cable plugged into the jack and a PC. Set the multimeter to measure voltage; most have a range setting, so pick the lowest one above 5 volts. On mine, that’s 20 V. For any voltage test, the black probe needs to be on a GND screw terminal, or touching one of the holes in the G column.
Here’s a picture that shows the pin numbers of the chip itself so that you can tell which pin to test when I say ‘pin #’.
Use the red probe on the following spots, and write down the voltage measured at that spot.
Next you need to measure the resistances between two points. I can’t really think of any situation where the resistance would be high and finite, so set the multimeter to check resistance (ohms) in the 20k Ohm range. Take a moment to check the reading when the probes are touching each other, and when they are separated, so you can easily tell what the reading is when the resistance is almost zero (touching) and almost infinite (apart). You’ll have to put both the black and red probes on spots; you cant just camp the black probe on the GND like with voltage. But, it doesn’t matter which color probe you put of which of the two spots; either should give the same answer. The voltage measurements above HAVE to be done while plugged into a PC; these resistance measurements do NOT, so go ahead and unplug it from the PC.
Let me know what you find.