The way it’s designed to work is to always make start+select=guide UNTIL the actual real Guide button is pressed. Once the Guide button is pressed, no more start+select shenannigans until the next time its plugged in.
Thanks for the clarification.
I think I wasn’t paying attention that back+start was canceling out the guide (due to back) and not bringing it up. I hate feeling like an idiot. Blame it on New Years? 
I’ve got several sticks with your boards in them, and I love them. Looks like another one will be coming up as someone gave me a Sixaxis, and well, what else does one do with it? Thanks and keep it up.
Something to throw out there to anyone, and I don’t know if it’s been considered before:
I’ve been wondering how much of a hassle it would be to produce ribbon cable accessory board(s) for the TEs to aid in dual modding. They have tons of room in them, and most of the cables are fairly long inside. Only need to take the button and joystick ribbon cables to the accessory board. Three ribbon cables from accessory board to TE PCB’s appropriate connectors. Then there is access to those signals beside those with pads to solder to (or even add screw mounts). Then the only stuff you have to solder from on the TE PCB are the USB lines and Guide button. Clever usage of right angle connectors (if possible) on the underside could make it pretty small I think.
Toodles, I seem to recall from somewhere that you’ve got a modded/custom (I can’t recall which unfortunately) stick with a Multi-Console Cthulu in it to which you attacked a cord from one of those Pelican Universal Arcade Sticks. I also seem to recall that through that one cable, you said you were able to make it work on every console you wanted, even an Xbox 360 (after dual-modding) or PlayStation 3. Could you explain how you went about hooking the cable up and what you needed to get the USB consoles working?
Xbox1 plug was just a funky USB cable, wire that end to the USB points on the Cthulhu/360 PCBs and get a Xbox to USB cable and you’re good to go!
There was no dual mod on it; the MC is the only board in the stick. There is no Xbox360 support in that stick. The pelican cord has PSX, GC, and Xbox1 ends, and I use an Xbox->USB adapter like the one Kazujiro linked to have it working on the PS3 and PC.
toodles, Do you still wire the vcc from the chimp to xbox pcb and the ground from the chimp to the xbox pcb where the usb was?
Yup. Says so right on the welcome sheet that comes with the Chimp.
You also need to get:
RJ-45 crimper
cat 5 or 6 cable,
a 25 pack of RJ-45 crimp on jacks.
Networking jack boots (plastic covers)
Get rid of:
USB AB Cable. You will be using the hacked network cable for the RJ-45 jack.
Imp board. This is used for dual modding to a xbox 360 PCB so you don’t have to have a DPDT switch. If you don’t have a 360 there is little point of this board.
Refer to Acceptablerisks RJ-45 tutorial in the essentials thread.
Hey everyone, it’s me again. So I got a replacement chip and now my stick is working again. Though I have an odd problem with mine. It seems to be affected by static electricity. I noticed that when I sat down in a certain chair I have that it would trigger the start button. It also triggers when I get off the chair.
I have shook my fight stick, moved the plug, but I couldn’t get it to trigger. So it seems it’s static. Is there any way I can get rid of it? My fightstick is made out of wood (with a metal faceplate), isn’t that supposed to be a good insulator?
Thanks for that info Toodles! Could I in theory get it to work on a dual mod or is it impossible? I’m thinking the latter since I’d have to wire the Xbox 1 cord to the Imp in order to get it to run on USB thus preventing me from using the cord’s wires from being used for the Xbox 1 points on the MC Cthulu, but hey, never know until you ask, right?
Just ordered my Chimp board from lizardlick, looking very forward to finally having it.
I have a question to anyone who can answer it about installing a chimp on a 360 TE. On the 360 pcb where the usb was wired. The d+/d- what do you wire it to on the chimp? Thanks any help would be appreciated.
XD- and XD+ on the Chimp stand for Xbox D- and Xbox D+
Right next to the USB connections.
Update on this issue:
Works fine on his Xbox. shrug
I am trying to mod a stock xbox360 TE using the MC/Imp boards.
I can’t wrap my head around how I’m supposed to wire it with the preinstalled USB jack, which is not factored in on the wiring howto on bomberman’s picture: http://media.photobucket.com/image/mc%20cthulhu%20step%20by%20step/eastx/arcade%20sticks/ps3cthulhuandimptosestickdiagram.jpg
Am I right in thinking I just need to plug a USB cable into the mounted USB jack, then the other end into my system? If so how do I wire that with the cthulu? Should I just desolder the mounted usb back and then solder a cut usb cable onto the imp?
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Not for your stick.
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more in a bit
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No. You’ll mess it up, and you don’t gain anything for the work.
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Continued: The best choice for a modded TE is to use the USB cable you already have. Solder the 4 wires (the ‘thick black one’ is the shielding. cut it off or solder it to ground somewhere. Doesn’t matter.) in the existing USB cable to the points on the Imp shown in the diagram as ‘to USB cable or jack’.
Now, for #2 aka what you should do. Instead of connected D+ and D- to the points shown on the diagram, connect them where told in the FAQs in the first post:
There you go. Two perfectly easy to access and easy to solder to points for the two lines.
Gentlemen, I come to you humble and (half way) broken. I have attempted to install the ChImp board this weekend and I have to admit, it’s been a little crazy. Anyhow, my board came assembled which included a usb port. My question is: could I simply take a male end usb cord wire/solder it to the existing usb cable then connect it to the chimp board? If that is possible which connections would I need to add or omit?
Here are some pictures of the mess I have done and I was hoping you guys could point out any mistakes or missing connections. Also, if any of you existing ChImp board owners that have done the install have some detailed pictures I can look at and compare, I would GREATLY appreciate it.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j91/zincognito/DSC01403.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j91/zincognito/DSC01415.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j91/zincognito/DSC01404.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j91/zincognito/DSC01408.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j91/zincognito/DSC01409.jpg
Yowzers. The soldering to the TE board needs some clean up. The exposed length of wires is way too long; you want as little exposed wire as possible. The wires weren’t tinned, and I think you’ll find that it helps quite a bit to tin them.
To tin a wire:
Remove insulation from the end.
Twist tightly.
Apply a small amount of flux to the exposed wire.
Melt some solder on the end of your iron.
Touch iron to wire.
Solder will ‘suck’ up the wire, and head the insulation so it pulls back a little.
Trim excess exposed wire so about 2-4mm of exposed wire is left.
That should make the wires seem a little less squirrelly, and makes a better connection overall. Plus, since the insulation has already been heated and contracted a bit, it won’t budge much when soldering to the TE board.
Those connections to the TE board just need to be redone. The solder is all over the place, and I see a few points where they have to the touching. That’s bad. Flux is your friend and would help here. Just apply a little to the points if the solder is acting ‘sticky’ and not behaving the way a liquid should.
As for connections, there’s no wire connecting the D+ and D- lines from the TE board to the Chimp. That absolutely must be fixed. You can connect them to the unlabelled points on the chimp (check the welcome sheet to see which ones) or the XD+ /XD- points next to the USB jack.
You can use the male B end of a USB cable, cut it, and connect it to the TE’s existing cable. Cut the ‘thick black wire’ of the TE cord off, leaving the thin black wire. Remove the insulation from the sacrificial USB cable and trim it. Connect the four small wires of the USB cable to the matching four small wires of the TE cable together; there are four colors, connect each color to the same color.
You shouldn’t use a USB jack on mass produced sticks that have USB cords, for this exact reason. You SHOULD use a USB jack if it is going into a custom build stick, since you’ll have to use a standard USB cable. I’ll talk to Chad and see if I can talk him into putting up an entry for an assembled Chimp without the USB jack.
Thanks Toodles/Gummowned, that mounted USB jack was what was throwing me off, once I learned to ignore it, everything went just fine. Is the mounted jack just there for someone who is using the cthulu as the only pcb in their stick, and not using an imp board?
ZINCOGNITO: Toodles isn’t kidding. Tinning your wires is god tier.
I agree with the comments so far. do some practice soldering before re tackling this. One thing I noticed that may cause you to trash this board. Look at the second wire from the left. The capacitor is missing, the little block surface mounted to the board. Without the capacitor that button will no longer work.
You lost that capacitor because you were leaving the soldering iron on the board too long. To clean this up use flux and a solder sucker to remove as much of the excess solder as you can. Then re-tin each spot on the board with a fresh bit of rosin core solder. Just a quick dab is all it takes. Then tin your wires as described above and solder them to the board.
Good Luck,
Michael