http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/755/Terminal-Strips/1.html
they accept “up to” 14 AWG, so 22-24 wouldn’t be a problem. dunno about the non-pcb mount stuff, because then it’d just be a terminal strip.
You could most likely find it for better shipping at digikey though. the problem with allelectronics is they have a flat ship rate, so unless you buy a ton of shit it’s generally not worth it to order from them.
thanks, i am going from a 360 SE so it’s perfect.
I was thinking of combining some of the wires that share a pin on the RJ-45 jack and solder them into the corresponding wire in a pre-made network cable that has an end cutoff. Afterward, I’ll probably use some heat shrink tube to make it look neater.
Toodles did say in another thread that it was best to solder directly into the MC Cthulhu though.
Thanks. I was just looking at those too. The thing I don’t like about the bigger term strips is that the opening is too large, and sometimes the wires snap out of the screws. With the smaller blue/green elevator style screw-ins, the connection feels more secure for smaller wires.
I just fold up the wire on the end to make it thicker so that it won’t get tugged from the European-style terminal strips (the white terminal strips).
I’m working on a two player stick and was curious, would the chimp’s autodetect still work if I had two of them connected to an unpowered usb hub? Or should I just stick with two cable coming out?
I actually thought about that after I made my post. I’m positive you could make that work, but I think individual cables would be a whole lot easier and probably end up looking cleaner.
Just use an ethernet cable (8 cables), and terminate in 2 USB cables at the console end. You keep 1 cable but don’t have the issues a hub gives.
Hey Marcus,
I was just wondering when the next batch of Chimp boards may arrive.
I agree, it definitely is easier to put together individual cables.
hey i have a question, does mvc2 (ps3) work with the cthulhu board? for some reason my L1 button doesnt register in mvc2, so i thought it was something wrong with the button, so i tried it on sf4 (which works). can somebody tell me whats going on?
thanks
did you configure you buttons on options?
yeah i did. i had to resort to switching the pad to what i want, and changed it back to the stick. but when i went back to the game, L1 still wont work…
(I wanted L1 as assist 2)
I just installed a newer MC Cthulhu & Imp in an Xbox 360 TE stick. The MC Cthulhu is in the # 1 position on the Imp.
In MC Cthulhu mode, it’s only showing up as the Cthulhu bootloader. In Xbox 360 mode, the Guide light doesn’t light up and WIndows doesn’t detect anything.
Can I have some troubleshooting advice please?
My guess is that your start and select are shorting so that they’re constantly reading pressed.
odd, sorry bro, couldn’t help you out here. :sad:
someone will…hopefully.
:sad: thanks man, maybe toodles will know
So I finally finished a triple mod with the ChImp V1, Madcatz 4716, and a PS1 pcb, and everything looks good. Only thing that I am noticing is that when pressing the triggers when switched to 360 mode, the input for left analog stick moves to the upper left, not a whole lot, but about half way to max when both triggers are pressed. I don’t know if its a chImp beta problem, or my wiring, but I will test it on SF4 later to see if this proves to be a problem.
Alright, finals are done. Whew. I’m taking spring semester off so I can do a lot of work that’s been backing up and address a number of things I need to be making (dualed 360+sixaxis wireless helper board, LED controller, et al) and the things I should be improving ( additional consoles for the MC Cthulhu, fixing that damned PSX bug in the MC, and getting the Chimps out the door).
I’ll make a post following this trying to catch up on the posts here.
But first, I want to announce a Secret Santa of Sorts Sale. All trade ins received between now and one month from now (January 17th 2010) will get 150% trade value; send in games listed that total $30 in trade value, get $45 in credit towards whatever you’d like. Obviously, this is just through me as the resellers couldn’t care less about trading for games, but I figured this would be a nice way for some of y’all to get some of boards with little to nothing out of pocket. I’ll do my best to add to the list any games I can think of I might like to get. If you’d like to take advantage of this, send me an email with what you have in mind, I’ll reply with my address and any other details needed.
Anyways, onward and upward. I hope to be a lot more visible here than I have been during the semester.
Awesome, hope you like it.
The USB holes on the chimp are as big as I can get them. I will do my best to add separate points outside of the USB jack spot if I can when I make the next batch; unfortunately I can’t guess when that will be.
There is not. A PS3 and a PC look identical to the Chimp, and I’ve always found the Cthulhu code to play games better. Other than SF4, I can’t think of any situation where the guide button would be an issue. But I do agree it would be nice. I can’t promise anything more at this point other than I will look into it. Something tells me that the GFWL joystick stuff may use the same 360 authentication that keeps me from working on a 360.
Soon.
Totally agreed. Next batch will be wider to prevent that.
Sure, I’ve done it, and even posted up in this thread which color of wire goes in which column…
Oh, RJ-45. Yeah, that’s a bit of a reach. The sheer number of wires would make that a bitch. You won’t be able to crimp an RJ-45 directly on, that’s right out. What I’d do is get a short network cable, cut the cable about 6 inches from the jack, use a multimeter to identify which color of cat-5 cable goes to which pin. Search for the post in this thread where I listed the wire colors for that cord going to each column. Use the Pin-to-column information in the RJ-45 thread so you know which column on the cthulhu goes to which pin. With that information, you know which wire color in the pelican cord goes to which column. You know which column goes to which pin from the RJ-45 thread, and you know which cat-5 wire goes to each pin from the pinout you did. Connect them up, electrical tape or heat shrink each connection, and stash the connections in a small project box, like a Tick-Tack box.
Any that I get that aren’t already soldered to the cthulhu or other board would have come from Digikey.
As for the ‘non-PCB mount’ ones you describe, I’m certain Digikey also carries them. I think they’re usually referred to as ‘barrier strips’
Heh, why can’t I ever describe things as succinctly as that when I try to reply? 
I do feel soldering the pelican cord directly would be preferable, but its a preference issue; there’s no technical reason it can’t work.
For a two player stick, plugging both of the chimps into a hub so only a single USB cable exits the stick is perfectly fine. The only part I can’t swear to 100% is whether or not there will be problems with the P1 side sometimes showing up as controller 2 and visa versa. But as for autodetection and general PS3/PC use, no problem.
Very soon.
I’ve been playing a sick amount of marvel on mine, but its a 6 button stick. It might help to clarify which button you’re expecting to be L1; on a 6 button stick, the fierce button is labelled ‘3P’ on the board, while roundhouse is ‘3K’. They activate R1 and R2, respectively. ‘L1’ should be the fourth punch button ‘4P’. So if your playing marvel with the arcade 6 button setup, you won’t be using L1 at all.
Just like ST:HDR, the default button setup for Marvel is, well, wrong. It’s different from almost every six button fighter that’s been on PS1, PS2, or PS3, including SF4. Marvel defaults to having the Assist A (normally the ‘fierce’) button on R1, and the Assist B (normally the 'roundhouse) button be L1. So you MUST go through a button config if using a cthulhu.
I’m sorry, I know I get all wordy. Go through the button config. Setup it up. If you can’t get it straightened out in the button config, then please post up a picture of the button config screen, and a description of how your buttons are laid out, which are the ‘main six’ buttons, and how you want it to work, and I’ll see what I can do.
Brighenne is right; in order for that to happen, the cthulhu has to see the start and select as pressed (low voltage) when powered on. I’d check for continuity between the start and select lines against ground. If you can’t find anything there, disconnect the select and start wires from the cthulhu and test on a PC to see if anything else is acting wonky.
Also, did you connect select and start to the Imp? On a TE, you shouldn’t have to.
This is a good find. I’d like for you to tell me everything you can about the 360 you’re using, the PSX pad you’re using, and what EXACTLY has been done on the 360 triggers, any shennanigans done to the analog sticks, and whether you’re using the inverted kicks on the triggers or not. Lots of detail, perhaps pictures, of all three boards. I’m very curious about this.
interesting!:lovin: