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huh, I guess it works after I replug it, thought I tried that already. Thanks!

i have a MC cthulhu in my triple modded(360, DC, and cthulhu) TE that looses connection when i go from the ps2 browser to hdloader and again once i load a game. the same thing happens going from browser directly to an original disk. this also occurs with the MC board completely isolated from the other boards and components as well.

unplugging and replugging it in makes it work again, sometimes needing replugging more than once. i’ve had it happen twice during a game as well. also, i have to plug the stick in after turning it on or i end up needing to replug it in.

the ps2 is scph-35001 model. the cthulhu board was bought as an unsoldered kit, so i’m not sure what version is on the chip. i will be making a cable for it later today to see if i need to update the board. is this a problem that is normal or has it been address in an update on the chip or am i the only one?

Hello again everyone,

So I made an update to my earlier post, but long story short I have determined it is a problem with the chip. Toodles, do you offer replacement parts for the Cthulhu PS3 board?

That’s a known problem with the MC. As soon as I get it fixed in the firmware I’ll release it, but I dont have an ETA on when that will be.

I have a joystick I am working with a strange situation. I have a PS3 Cthulhu that when connected directly to the PC it works. When I put the imp in the line the computer no longer recognizes the Cthulhu. I have gone through the IMP troubleshooting guide and it tests out fine.

On the other side of the Imp is a Madcatz 360 pad model 4716 Ver E. This also works fine when connected directly to the computer. I know that Marcus doesn’t support this. However when I add it to the equation I get a underpowered USB device message on the computer.

Thanks to anyone who can help.
Michael

Toodles, good news. Just finished my first commissioned dual mod and happened to use the ChImp. The thing works like a champ, autodetection seems to work great and Start+select = home until a dedicated button is pressed. This function works on both ps3/pc and x360 selections.

Tested this on my PC, and utilized the command to force it into 360 mode. I’ll test it further on my 360 tomorrow, as well as a PS3 this weekend.

Other than that, great job man…this thing is fucking awesome. Although soldering to the USB spots are still my kryptonite. I started putting the USB cord back…started having trouble, so I soldered some jumper wires and just used shrink wrap :rofl:

Is there any way to automatically use the 360 side when connected to a PC, as I get much better functionality with the 360 pad (Guide button in gfwl games and ready made configs).

That is some great freaking news. I can’t wait till it’s available to the public.

Toodles: you wouldn’t happen to have any extra boards would you?

Anyone have some suggestions???

Michael

Check the soldering on the lines going from the imp to the other boards. It might be a cold joint making it unreliable. Both gl0ry and I had somewhat similar problems and cold joints were the problem in both cases.

Well one problem down. The over voltage condition is gone. However the Cthulhu is still not being recognized through the Imp. I have the 360 as the primary pad. Can this cause a problem? I am going to go through the Cthulhu Troubleshooting guide as well.

Thanks,
Michael

Cthulhu troubleshooting came through with flying colors. So something isn’t right someplace.

My stick is wired with the 360 as default and it works fine. I still think it’s a problem with the data lines between the cthulhu and imp if the cthulhu is working fine and the 360 board works.

Good Call, replaced the data wires with a twisted pair and everything is now working smoothly. Haven’t connected the 360 pad to the controls yet but that is next. Thanks for the help and advice.

Michael

Toodles, one thing I just kind of noticed was how close the holes for standoffs are to the end header spots A,K,1, and 11

Just a quick heads up, if anyone somehow uses a screw that has a fairly large head on it, it may short out the signal lines.

I just kind of noticed how mine just barely misses touching both K and 11. I’m going to re-open it tomorrow and double check that, a nylon washer may be in order. If possible, it may be a good idea to space out those holes so that nobody shorts those signals on accident.

i’d gladly start reading all the info i can get, but can anyone point me to a page or post with the latest info necessary to learn what i need for a 360/ps3/pc mod? with 130 pages i figure alot of this is out of date!

edit: does this page likely have all i need? it seems pretty good: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=184787

That link you posted pretty much has all the information that you’d need about dual modding between a 360 PCB and a Cthulhu. (Especially if you are in fact dual-modding a Mad Catz SE or TE.) If you’re using a different 360 PCB you’ll have to go find a diagram of the one you’re soldering to, but there are plenty of those in Tech Talk to go off of.

Someone mentioned somewhere (forget where now) that you can use the three-console cord from one of those pelican sticks on an MC Cthulhu. Does anyone have more information on this?

Using an RJ45 jack.

Off the top of my head, I don’t think you could wire up one of those cables to a single rj45 plug. If I’m not mistaken, they are basically three different sets of cables in a single thing of insulation. Somebody please correct me if that’s not the case, though.

Hey Toodles,

I was wondering, where do you shop for your terminal blocks? I am having a hell of a time trying to find smaller size blue or green terminal blocks… like 22-24 AWG size.

Also, do you know if they make non-PCB mount versions, like a screw in on both sides?