I should be able to to some serious testing at a tournament this weekend. Can you consolidate all the things that I need for setup, how to access the different modes and what to expect while testing it would be great. I’ll have access to PS3 and 360 consoles. I’ll use your information to create a checklist for testing on each console that I can. Also has there been a firmware update yet? I just want to be sure that I have everything setup right to get the proper results during testing.
The ChImp is going into my personal stick which is ready for some serious game play. I have a current MadCatz 360 pad hacked and ready to go with an inverter chip as well. Reading back over some of these posts there was something mentioned about the triggers. If I am reading this right then I don’t need the inverter chip anymore?
Any PS3 models/firmware that it doesn’t work on, which most likely means the Chimp incorrectly decided it was a 360.
Any PC models/OSes/chipsets that it goes into 360 mode on (any it autodetects as a 360, which it shouldn’t).
Any 360 models/firmwares that it doesn’t correctly identify as a 360. You should have already tested the setup on a PC by holding Short+Strong+Roundhouse to verify the 360 wiring is correct. If Short+Strong+Roundhouse is held down when plugged in, the chimp will skip autodetection and go straight to 360 mode. So, if it works on a 360 when you hold Sh+St+RH, but doesn’t when you just plug it in, the autodetect failed, and I need the info on the 360 so I can try to replicate it and fix it.
Verification that Start + Select will press the Guide button in 360 mode (note: you must not have pressed the physical Guide button since plugging in or it wont work. As soon as the chimp see Guide/Home is pressed, it will know there is a real button and disable the shortcut buttons.)
Verification that the trigger invert lines work as they should.
You’re reading it correctly; if you have a 4716 that needs the triggers inverted, you don’t need an inverter chip or transistor or anything else; just remove the potentiometer from the pad, and connect the center wiper signal of each trigger to the appropriate 3KINV or 4KINV line. (at least, that’s how it SHOULD work. It hasnt been tested yet AFAIK.)
And a triple post in my own thread, no wonder its passed 3000 posts.
I realized that I am out of sockets for the 4066 chip; I just placed an order for more, which could take a week to arrive. If anyone that’s placed an order would prefer to wait for the sockets, that’s fine, just let me know and I’ll send it out when the sockets get here. otherwise, I’ll be sending them without the sockets, so the 4066 chip will have to be soldered directly to the board like the Imps. (the 28 pin PIC sockets I have plenty of, so there will NOT be any need to solder the PIC, only the 4066 chip)
if it bombs, then the model/serial number from the back and whatever the firmware is at; ‘up to date dashboard’ is fine if its up to date. And I hope I wont ever need this info.
Hmmm. Im not sure. I’ll look into it. a 22 pin header pin is easy, but finding a 22 pin connector for it may be difficult.
hi there! i have an mc-cthulhu i received last wk. i haven’t touched it yet cuz i wanted my cases to show up first. i was looking over the welcome doc and noticed there aren’t any connections for L3 & R3 (the analog stick buttons). is this intentional? i can’t personally think of any games i have (ps2 or otherwise) where those two buttons are critical, but it was just something i’m curious abt.
i’ll definitely be enjoying the cthulhu soon enough. just plug it into the pc and load the .hex file into it using the accompanying software?
thanks again for making what looks to be a top quality product!
Yup. Make sure to plug it in with start and select held down so it goes into bootloader mode. There’s a readme in the .zip file that should cover everything you need to know.
Quick question. Does anyone know what a MC Cthulhu reports as “Button 7” via USB? I’m working on a project and noticed in my joystick tester app that it started erroneously triggering “Button 7”. I attempted to compare it against my other Cthulhu and it doesn’t trigger a button 7 and couldn’t find anything using the search tool here.
(I want to note that I don’t believe this in any fault of the Cthulhu, just trying to figure out what misfire I’m causing so I can hopefully figure out what kinda mistake I’ve made in my project)
I have a Madcatz retro PCB for Xbox 360 connected to a PS3-only Cthulhu and Imp. Guide is the toggle button. The analog triggers have resistors and diodes attached.
All the button/stick wires go to barrier strips that then go to the buttons and stick. The ground wires are daisy-chained.
Windows detects the 360 and Cthulhu modes properly. However, sometimes buttons will not work. Testing it with an Xbox 360, the X and Y buttons in particular (but also maybe a couple of the others) will work for a while and then not work, or take a few presses to start working.
Using a multimeter to check continuity, I get weird readings. Touching both prongs to the signal and ground connectors of a single button, I should get 1 (no continuity) if a button is not pressed, right? But X reads 1393. Left Bumper and Left Trigger both read 001 (full continuity) until I press the buttons a few times, after which they read 596.
If I check for continuity between any 2 random signal wires (all 4 directions and every button), they all register about 1950. Except for Y, which shows 1 in any combination.
The reading between Ground and VCC is 969.
I frankly dont have an answer for this; I dont have SF4 PC, and it wont run on my computers. If there’s no way to set them in the button config when you first start it, then I dont know. Definitely verify that the buttons work on the control panel applet. If they do, then its an SF4 setting problem and I’ll need someone else to pipe in on how to deal with it.
Gonna need a LOT more information about the stick setup than that. Talk to the guy who did the mod, and find out how to make the stick go into cthulhu or 360 mode, and make sure they both work on the PC.
4K
You’re checking resistance, when checking voltage would be much more helpful. The signal lines should have a higher voltage (either 3.3v-ish or 5v-ish on the 360 pad, definitely 4.8 ish volts on the cthulhu by itself) when not pressed, and low (close to 0 volts) when pressed. If the voltage on signal line is low when the button isn’t pressed, then something is forcing the voltage low. Disconnect things attached to it, and when the voltage goes back up, the item you removed was pulling it down. Best of luck, but it isn’t supported.
If he used the LS-DP-RS switch, he should have made it be DP for 360 and RS for cthulhu. Plug it into the computer on RS and see what comes up, then unplug it, move the switch to DP, and replug it. (you have to move the switch when its NOT plugged in)
Toodles lists suppliers in the first post of this thread. Also you can refer to my guide (linked in the first post of the thread) for a list of all parts you’ll need to buy. If you use my guide, feel free to ask further questions in that thread (after thoroughly reading the guide). Good luck!
